Just got done doing a head swap this weekend, 2000 cherokee with all the typical signs of a cracked head. Went to Daveys Jeeps in Salem, Ohio and picked up a '06 head with 10k on it for $150. Bolted right up no problems, and is running great! About ten hours worth of work to get it all done and running again. Cost me around $340 for the head, all gaskets, head bolts, oil & filter, thermostat, and a couple little things.
Do you know if this Davey's Jeep has any more heads like that available. I live in Mi also so it wouldn't be that far? Or maybe they could ship one.Just got done doing a head swap this weekend, 2000 cherokee with all the typical signs of a cracked head. Went to Daveys Jeeps in Salem, Ohio and picked up a '06 head with 10k on it for $150. Bolted right up no problems, and is running great! About ten hours worth of work to get it all done and running again. Cost me around $340 for the head, all gaskets, head bolts, oil & filter, thermostat, and a couple little things.
By making sure your fabricated bracketry has a solid mechanical connection to ground (solid mechanical connection generally equals a solid electrical connection.)
If that makes you uncomfortable, run a secondary ground lead from under one of the mounting screw heads to the engine block or cylinder head - it will double up on the grounding from the mounting screws. Use something like a 10 or 8AWG wire for that one, for added assurance.
Apologies for reviving a thread from the dead, but stumbled across this searching about a head swap.
I had the 0331 crack on my 2000 and had a 7120 head installed, with some coil pack mounts fabricated up. The problem is the guy used a rubber screw insert to mount the coil pack to a valve cover screw, so no metal to metal ground.
Do I need to ground the coil pack to the engine block/head, or will the chassis suffice? The Jeep has been running rough since the swap and I have had it hooked up to a comprehensive scan tool, and all systems/sensors/etc are operating correctly. No codes or check engine light. I also get about 6-8 miles per gallon on 31's. I purchased a 3/8 x 3" bolt and nut and 4 gauge ground wire. Just need to know if it grounds to engine block/head or chassis or if it matters. If its the bock/head, which place is best? Thanks.
Has anyone that has changed their head experienced low oil pressure at hot idle prior to the swap? What have you seen since the swap? Oil pressure seems normal on start up. Once I reach operating temps, It will drop to almost 0 on the oil pressure guage. 2-2.5k rpm will bring in just below 2 on the guage. Anyone with similar problem have anything to report???