WJ Knuckle Swap, trying a different approach

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Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I have the same setup and had to run 1 washer as well. Where'd you find those spacers, I've been thinking about getting some cut too. My issue with the washers is the rotor rocks back and forth a hair on the studs when you brake hard in reverse then again the next time in forward, etc. since the holes on the Ford rotor are larger and you have much less contact surface.

Chris... the real issue with washers is that the wheel doesn't tighten right at the studs. It tightens around the edge just outside the bolt circle. The issue is that while the wheel can easily tighten against the rotor, there is nothing behind the rotor (a gap) where the wheel hits it.

Im not going to argue. I did the measurements and I assure you I am correct, however, when I do the swap on the U-joint axle in a couple of weeks I will take more detailed photos to prove my point. A simple way to prove it is to take before and after measurements... go from the inner c surface (right next to where the axle tube is pressed in) and measure the distance between that and the center of the u-joint. If it is the same before and after, then its fine, nothing moved. If it were a 1/4" in further (which would never work due to the shaft hitting the cross pin, again proving I am correct) then you would know the spacer is needed. The center of the u-joint needs to line up with the axis of the ball joints, we all are assuming they do line up from the factory. So... if you have to pull the shaft out of the carrier by 1/4" then it would no longer line up with that axis. In theory, if the spacer was really needed, you would have to run it, because otherwise the end of the shaft would hit the cross pin which wouldn't allow the unit bearing to be bolted in all of the way.

So I say whatever. You guys don't know me from adam, all you know is that I pay to advertise on here and have a blue name (my other screen name). Most of you have not seen my work, and those who have trust me and my judgement.

I will take pictures of the measurements and post them up when I do the other one.

As for the RCV having in and out movement, nope. They only turn, no lateral movement whatsoever, so if they aren't centered on the ball joint axis, they would bind the same as a u-joint. They didn't bind at all in this application. I could easily rotate the knuckle around and still turn the shaft by hand which clearly would not be possible if it were an issue.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

Hey man, not trying to be a nay-sayer, I really hope you are correct. This will make my life easier in the future since I already have almost brand new '98 unit bearings.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

ok i read every single post in this thread so far. tw it looks like u are correct. my question is why the wj knuckles. what is the reason for using them. i know that my question is kinda off beat but im just curios to know why everyone is wanting to run a wj knuckle on an xj. im not an idiot just curious about a swap.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

ok i read every single post in this thread so far. tw it looks like u are correct. my question is why the wj knuckles. what is the reason for using them. i know that my question is kinda off beat but im just curios to know why everyone is wanting to run a wj knuckle on an xj. im not an idiot just curious about a swap.

larger more powerful 2 piston brakes and a better/stronger steering set up
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

because otherwise the end of the shaft would hit the cross pin which wouldn't allow the unit bearing to be bolted in all of the way.

If this part is correct - that it would hit the cross pin being in 1/4" more (I know, I'm a n00b who has never taken his D30 apart) then I can't see a way for him to be wrong. Can anyone else?
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

yes because there is probably an extra 1/4" of threads on the stub shaft letting the hub seat all the way onto the knuckle anyway
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I have all the WJ stuff to do this swap so I'm really interested in seeing how this works!
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

Chris... the real issue with washers is that the wheel doesn't tighten right at the studs. It tightens around the edge just outside the bolt circle. The issue is that while the wheel can easily tighten against the rotor, there is nothing behind the rotor (a gap) where the wheel hits it.

Im not going to argue. I did the measurements and I assure you I am correct, however, when I do the swap on the U-joint axle in a couple of weeks I will take more detailed photos to prove my point. A simple way to prove it is to take before and after measurements... go from the inner c surface (right next to where the axle tube is pressed in) and measure the distance between that and the center of the u-joint. If it is the same before and after, then its fine, nothing moved. If it were a 1/4" in further (which would never work due to the shaft hitting the cross pin, again proving I am correct) then you would know the spacer is needed. The center of the u-joint needs to line up with the axis of the ball joints, we all are assuming they do line up from the factory. So... if you have to pull the shaft out of the carrier by 1/4" then it would no longer line up with that axis. In theory, if the spacer was really needed, you would have to run it, because otherwise the end of the shaft would hit the cross pin which wouldn't allow the unit bearing to be bolted in all of the way.

So I say whatever. You guys don't know me from adam, all you know is that I pay to advertise on here and have a blue name (my other screen name). Most of you have not seen my work, and those who have trust me and my judgement.

I will take pictures of the measurements and post them up when I do the other one.

As for the RCV having in and out movement, nope. They only turn, no lateral movement whatsoever, so if they aren't centered on the ball joint axis, they would bind the same as a u-joint. They didn't bind at all in this application. I could easily rotate the knuckle around and still turn the shaft by hand which clearly would not be possible if it were an issue.

Here in lies the problem! You drop in here the new vender on the block and expect everyone to believe that you are smarter than the rest of us to include those that researched this mod and prompted the manufacture of a specific spacer for it!! Your posting of the unit bearings and description of your reasoning for our stupidity is BS! What you should have done is compare several WJ conversion builds WITH measurements and those of us that have done this before would have little to say!! You went about this the wrong way.............. :conceited
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

reading this thread just makes me want a front 44 more and more.

this is nonsense lol

Yup, because 44's just bolt in without any modifications....I used the JKS weld-on spacer with 2003 TJ unit bearings and WJ Upper and Lower BJ's and did not have to space my calipers. Been running this setup for nearly a year and couldn't be more pleased.
 
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Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

Yup, because 44's just bolt in without any modifications....I used the JKS weld-on spacer with 2003 TJ unit bearings and WJ Upper and Lower BJ's and did not have to space my calipers. Been running this setup for nearly a year and couldn't be more pleased.


Which calipers?

I think some of the mystery with caliper spacing comes from using mismatched combinations of Teeves / Akebono brakes, though I'm far from prooving the point...
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

Which calipers?

I think some of the mystery with caliper spacing comes from using mismatched combinations of Teeves / Akebono brakes, though I'm far from prooving the point...

You know there's no space difference with the calipers/rotors/bearings on a WJ between Teeves/Akebono calipers, right?
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

interesting approach...

my 99 needed the JKS spacers and WJ lower Ball Joints to live happy together... I ran yukon shafts and yukon superjoints mated with 15x10 rims with 3.75 bs and everything cleared (drilled knuckles to run heims for steering links)... also redrilled WJ rotors for correct BP to 5x4.5

I know every jeep is different but every install has needed the spacer welded on to the knuckle for the complete kit to work safely. I could not install mine without the spacer because the rotor would be way off inside the calipers... my shafts though had plenty of engagement
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

Any updates?
Explosions, affirmations, new builds?
 
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