WJ Knuckle Swap, trying a different approach

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Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I want to know how deep the recessed area that the stub shaft sits in is, as well. The real measurement that matters here is the distance from the surface the stub shaft sits on to the centerline of the balljoint holes in the knuckle with the bearing mounted to it. It MUST be the same or the stub shaft length needs to be changed.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

The unit bearings mount to the knuckles, not the C's. ;)

Hard to tell from the pic, would need to measure. But you're right about the knuckle mounting face being the important one, not the bottom of the unit bearing.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

The Hard Struggler said:
It is not a 30. The housing is a HP D44 from a 77 F-150, with welded wedges.


I think Tyler used the WJ inner Cs, to address the ball joint-axle shaft alignment, I may be wrong.
Click to expand...

Ya, I thought that was what the housing was when I looked at the picture, and it kills me every time when people do that. I personally think that is just a dumb thing to do. Why go through the trouble of upgrading to a HP44, but cut off 1/2 of the parts that you are upgrading, only to keep D30 stuff?
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

asp said:
The unit bearings mount to the knuckles, not the C's. ;)

Hard to tell from the pic, would need to measure. But you're right about the knuckle mounting face being the important one, not the bottom of the unit bearing.
Click to expand...

Nitpicking here, but "C"s is usually a slang term for "knuckles".

I've heard "inner cs" and "outer cs" before.

Neither is "technically" correct, but whatever, people understand what you're saying.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

Good to know. I had never heard the term 'outer C' before.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I think Kastein is right in that the important measurement is the distance from the centerline of the balljoint rotation to the inner face of the unit bearing that the stub shaft sits against when installed. I hope this clarifies this somewhat.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

jeeperjohn said:
I think Kastein is right in that the important measurement is the distance from the centerline of the balljoint rotation to the inner face of the unit bearing that the stub shaft sits against when installed. I hope this clarifies this somewhat.
Click to expand...


That has been brought up in this thread 15 times, we get it lol
hasta
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

What needs to be checked is the distance between the hub mounting surface and the bearing face where the stub shaft sits against. If the WJ hub mesurment is .23"-.25" longer than the XJ's it should be fine to use. I have a feeling the rotor mounting surface is only moved in the WJ hub though.
hub.jpg
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

i am going to be running a wj'ed 30 and ford 9 rear and will be running wj unit bearings good to hear the the stock xj shafts should be fine...
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I am curious about why it is "dangerous" to have one washer behind the sport track rotor to space it out. I have always wondered about that on mine. It's certainly an inconvenience when taking things apart/putting back together, but does it significantly change the leverage or shear forces?

I have long thought about having a spacer laser cut that matches the hub flange instead of using the washers.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

You are saying that you have washers behind your Sport Track Rotor?
Last I head if you used Sport track rotors you do not need the caliper spacers since they are offset aprox 1/4" more than the WJ rotors.
 
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Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

ERratIC said:
You are saying that you have washers behind your Sport Track Rotor?
Last I head if you used Sport track rotors you do not need the caliper spacers since they are offset aprox 1/4" more than the WJ rotors.
Click to expand...

On mine I had to. WJ knuckles, 1/4" JKS spacer, 2000TJ unit bearings, xj upper balls joint, WJ lowers, washers, then sport trac rotors. That how I got it all to line up right. Oh and I have a '99 too, for what that is worth...

5x4.5 .0625" -.1" wheel spacers seem to be pretty easy to come by, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

jdbwrx said:
On mine I had to. WJ knuckles, 1/4" JKS spacer, 2000TJ unit bearings, xj upper balls joint, WJ lowers, washers, then sport trac rotors. That how I got it all to line up right. Oh and I have a '99 too, for what that is worth...

5x4.5 .0625" -.1" wheel spacers seem to be pretty easy to come by, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
Click to expand...

I have the same setup and had to run 1 washer as well. Where'd you find those spacers, I've been thinking about getting some cut too. My issue with the washers is the rotor rocks back and forth a hair on the studs when you brake hard in reverse then again the next time in forward, etc. since the holes on the Ford rotor are larger and you have much less contact surface.
 
Re: WJ Knuckle Swap... The CORRECT way!

I had Sport Trac rotors - spacers/washers were NOT needed
I then switched to re-drilled WJ brakes and NEEDED spacers/washers when using 99- hubs
When I used 99+ hubs, spacers/washers are now NOT needed on the caliper brackets

I have the JKS spacer on the hub, so I'm sure that contributed to having to use washers on the caliper brackets
 
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