Whats wrong with my Renix.

WTF is going on guys, I took my new tps in to exchage it under warranty and it is discontinued everywhere. I have checked every auto parts store and online nobody carries it anymore.
 
Autozone shows it still.

Part Number: TPS309 Weight: 0.26 lbs Warranty: 2 YR Application: With automatic transmission
Quantity Per Car: 1 OEM Number: 33003390; 33004650; 89 33 004 650

 
Mine is a manual and nobody has it.
 
I picked up an auto TPS, 48.99 @ oriellys. The problem is still there it just isn't as pronounced.
 
You probably just need to hack the system (wiring), LOL. Or should I saw unhack it?:yap:

Just remember good grounds are your friends! Always best to stay solidly grounded.
 
Ecomike said:
You probably just need to hack the system (wiring), LOL. Or should I saw unhack it?:yap:

Just remember good grounds are your friends! Always best to stay solidly grounded.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of going to the jy and finding a decent wiring harness
 
Extra wires: part of TSB 18-51-88

Someone was lazy doing the CPS patch harness TSB. Instead of removing the wires from the connector, and replacing them with the patch harness ends, they just cut the wires and butt spliced them in. The old terminals were supposed to be snipped off, and the wire ends taped back to the harness. Under the hood, you should see the two cut wires at the back of the fuel injection harness, where the original connector was (or still is, if they didn't cut it off, as they were supposed to!) Anyway, that's what the white/black and violet/white wires are. Not sure what that black/yellow is.
 
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Re: Extra wires: part of TSB 18-51-88

MJmk said:
Someone was lazy doing the CPS patch harness TSB. Instead of removing the wires from the connector, and replacing them with the patch harness ends, they just cut the wires and butt spliced them in. The old terminals were supposed to be snipped off, and the wire ends taped back to the harness. Under the hood, you should see the two cut wires at the back of the fuel injection harness, where the original connector was (or still is, if they didn't cut it off, as they were supposed to!) Anyway, that's what the white/black and violet/white wires are. Not sure what that black/yellow is.
Click to expand...

good to know, thanks
 
btw... I have a 87 with an automatic. I looked under the dash, and I can see the black/yellow wire, except where you have the one, I have the black/yellow, with a tan, and a blue/yellow, in a 3-way connector, maybe a foot out of the harness. It mates with a connector that has smaller gauge wires that disappear into the dash harness directly under the steering column. The smaller gauge wires match the larger ones, except for the blue/yellow, which changes to blue/black.
 
MJmk said:
btw... I have a 87 with an automatic. I looked under the dash, and I can see the black/yellow wire, except where you have the one, I have the black/yellow, with a tan, and a blue/yellow, in a 3-way connector, maybe a foot out of the harness. It mates with a connector that has smaller gauge wires that disappear into the dash harness directly under the steering column. The smaller gauge wires match the larger ones, except for the blue/yellow, which changes to blue/black.
Click to expand...

I think the wiring harness in my jeep came out of an auto, there are all kinds of extra wires and connectors that I don't think belong. I'm going to the JY soon to seek a replacement.
 
DansGreyMj said:
I think the wiring harness in my jeep came out of an auto, there are all kinds of extra wires and connectors that I don't think belong.
Click to expand...

I'm quessing a big difference in the automatic harness is the plug for the tranny control module over on the passenger side, behind the lower dash trim (below the junk bin). Mines a plain jane model, so it has plenty of unused connectors/wires under the dash for the uninstalled options!
 
MJmk said:
I'm quessing a big difference in the automatic harness is the plug for the tranny control module over on the passenger side, behind the lower dash trim (below the junk bin). Mines a plain jane model, so it has plenty of unused connectors/wires under the dash for the uninstalled options!
Click to expand...

Either way my wires are junk.
 
I agree on the poor CPS sensor wiring repair. I'd guess the ECM was replaced trying to chase the bad CPS wiring. I'd fix those wires properly and check that they' put into the connector properly as well.

The black-yel wiring shows up in a number of places in the wiring diagram. For autos, its the wire for the power/comfort switch. It also looks like a black-yellow wire is for the dash 4wd light, and or backup lights.
 
I went to the junkyard yesterday and the only complete wiring harness i found came out of an auto, is there a way to rig up the NSS connector to make it work with a manual?
 
yes, jump the A and E wires on the connector (or cut and splice them together).

I'm running an 89 MJ auto harness on my 87 5 speed MJ (converted from a 2.5 to a 4.0).

You'll also have to splice the two wires for the backup light switch. I kept the harness connectors intact and just moved the pins around a bit to do that:

IMG_2331.jpg


:thumbup:

Jeff
 
Well i got the harness in and still could'nt get it to start using Jeff's instructions, so i wired in a push button. There was some improvement with the new harness but the problem is still there. I have a few extra IAT sensors to swap in and try, but I was wondering if it could also be my ECU, or my exhaust, I run a walker high flow cat and a Dynomax super turbo, 2.5in form to front of the cat to the back of the muffler and stock the rest of the way out. Could my exhaust flow too well and not have enough backpressure?
 
I am still having the problem been fooiling with the idea of replacing the Airtex fuel pump with A bosch 69302 from rock auto for $72, and also Carte/delphi/acdelco pumps for 80-95 bucks, I was thinking of just going with the Bosch and if it still does it i will have a better pump than I have now.
 
I just re-read this entire post, to refresh the story. No where do I see any mention of testing the O2 sensor. Try this. Disconnect the O2 sensor connector. Then test drive it. If the 2000 rpm problem goes away, then your problem is in the O2 sensor system, O2 sensor, wiring, O2 sensor heater relay, or exhaust piping issue (leak?).

What all did you do just before the problem originally started?

No one has mentioned the C-101 bulk head connector. It is notorious for connections looses after 22 years. It is near the Master brake cylinder on the firewall.

Interesting that replacing the TPS helped. Also interesting that replacing part of the harness helped, but what parts of the harness were replaced?

Could be the fuel pump, I have heard Airtex fuel pumps are no good from many people, but some of your comments make me doubt that is the issue. Try the disconnected O2 sensor and do the drive test first. Try cleaning, and servicing the pins (make sure they are tight) on the C-101 connector.

Have you checked fuel pressure while running the RPMs up and down quickly? have you checked the FP regulator for a diaphragm vacuum leak of fuel?
 
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