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What to look for

mavrick

NAXJA Forum User
Location
socal
A buddy of mine is looking at a 92 wrangler (i know, i know). What are some things he should look for. It is lifted so it probably as been wheeled a little.
 
Check the engagment of the t-case, check the steering components, check that it shifts smoothly through the gears both in 2 and 4 wheel drive. If it has a body lift, check to ensure that it was done correctly, that it doesn't overheat due to the radiator not being relocated, and that any shifters have full throw.

Look at the ujoints, but realize they are cheap to fix, so not a big deal. If possible, inspect the ring/pinion setups for chips and whatnot, and to change the gear oil that is almost surely old and soupy.

Check to make sure it has a CAT, if it needs one, and demand that the owner smog it, unless it's off-road only stickered.

Minor things to watch for are tire wear (uneven tire wear could point to major alignment problems - once again, maybe not a big deal, but could mean busted wheel bearings or shot / modified torsion bars, etc.).

Most other things are routine maintenenace, and can be looked at after purchase, barring a blown engine or something of the sort.

If it was lifted with blocks, check the condition of the ubolts, and I wouldn't consider anything more than 3 inch blocks - they are just dangerous.

:)
 
Check to make sure it has 4 doors. If you're not sure, check to make sure there's a badge on it that says "Cherokee"

:D

Sorry, I couldn't resist. I know you know.
 
Other things I would look for are rust in frame and body and the condition of the front spring perches....it's pretty common for those things to get ripped off...and I can tell you from first hand experience, it's a perty scary experience when it happens. =) (I highly recommend a shackle reversal too....it's a little funky to get used to the brake dive, but boy oh boy does the ride get smoother!)

Other than that, it's the same basic stuff as any other car....look for leaks, look for problems shifting (both tranny and transfer case), ensure it has sufficient power on acceleration, and listen carefully for any odd noises coming from the engine.

Other than that, they're pretty straight forward....and they're a heck of a lot easier to work on. It think it's 12 bolts to remove both of the fenders and you have 360 degree unobstructed access to the engine bay. =) Makes getting to those exhaust manifold bolts a TON easier.

Good luck with the purchase!
 
They dont call them "why J's" for nothing.
 
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