- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Ah, ha, so that is how you narrow down/confirm a rod knock noise? Pull the spark plug wire? Interesting.
What is this awful noise?
- Thread starter jk_surgeonfish
- Start date
Ah, ha, so that is how you narrow down/confirm a rod knock noise? Pull the spark plug wire? Interesting.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Have you checked the exhaust pipe, engine mounts, and tranny mount for any close encounter contact with the Ex-pipe, worn mounts, loose bell housing bolts etc.
- Location
- Golden, CO
Wrist pin too!
jk_surgeonfish
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- AZ
Ok... as Hypoid predicted, pictures will be on the way. I don't wish this upon anyone. What a royal pain in the butt to get the flex plate off. It is out and has a crack all the way around with some spiral cracks. I'll post some pics and do a short write-up as to what I did to get to it.
The 2 top E-12 bolts were finger tight. Passenger bolt for trans to engine was gone. Crazy!
I think I will throw a new CPS in from the dealer when I put it back together. Pain in the butt to get to.
Anything else I should change while things are apart? I did not pull trans and TC all the way out. Just pushed back 5 inches and that was enough to get the FP off.
The 2 top E-12 bolts were finger tight. Passenger bolt for trans to engine was gone. Crazy!
I think I will throw a new CPS in from the dealer when I put it back together. Pain in the butt to get to.
Anything else I should change while things are apart? I did not pull trans and TC all the way out. Just pushed back 5 inches and that was enough to get the FP off.
- Location
- Golden, CO
Much less work than swapping the engine, GOOD JOB!
OBXJeepGuy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Powells Point, NC
Ha! I win! I win!!!
You can also replace those BS E-12 bolts with regular ones while you're at it.
You can also replace those BS E-12 bolts with regular ones while you're at it.
jk_surgeonfish
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- AZ
Actually the E12 bolts were easy. I'm going to leave them.
jk_surgeonfish
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- AZ
True... but now I lost my excuse to stroke to 4.6. I'll save up money and get one of Russ' kits and build a stroker off a different block.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Cracked flex plate was at the top of my list too, except that you said it passed your first inspection already.
jk_surgeonfish
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- AZ
It passed by FP bolts tight inspection. The only crack visible from the inspection port was very difficult to see. Once I pulled it I saw it. In retrospect if I had spent more time looking for cracks I may have found it.
Either way.... new one from the dealer will be here tomorrow and I'll start the fun process of assembly.
jk_surgeonfish
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- AZ
Here are some notes on this issue.
1. Noise started with no warning. Basically, one day it was quiet...next is was there.
2. Sound came straight out of the oil pan.
3. Did not get louder when pulling the Flex Plate Inspection Plate.
4. Sound would go away when applying Brake and Gas while stopped in Gear at around 1100rpm.
5. Sound was present when cold or hot.
6. Sound was present when in gear or not in gear.
Tips on pulling:
1. Don't have to pull the trans out of the vehicle. Just have to get it back around 6 inches.
2. Don't have to pull the transfer case.
3. Get yourself a trans jack. Safer.
4. Drain TC and Trans fluid.
5. Tie your drive shafts up out of the way. You don't have to remove from the axle end.
6. Disconnect your rear exhaust hangers so it can move free.
7. Disconnect exhaust from header
8. Get an E12 Socket
9. Pull CPS so you don't damage when you separate trans from engine.
10. Expect it to take 2x as long as you think.
This is just getting things apart. I'll add more tips as I put it back together.
1. Noise started with no warning. Basically, one day it was quiet...next is was there.
2. Sound came straight out of the oil pan.
3. Did not get louder when pulling the Flex Plate Inspection Plate.
4. Sound would go away when applying Brake and Gas while stopped in Gear at around 1100rpm.
5. Sound was present when cold or hot.
6. Sound was present when in gear or not in gear.
Tips on pulling:
1. Don't have to pull the trans out of the vehicle. Just have to get it back around 6 inches.
2. Don't have to pull the transfer case.
3. Get yourself a trans jack. Safer.
4. Drain TC and Trans fluid.
5. Tie your drive shafts up out of the way. You don't have to remove from the axle end.
6. Disconnect your rear exhaust hangers so it can move free.
7. Disconnect exhaust from header
8. Get an E12 Socket
9. Pull CPS so you don't damage when you separate trans from engine.
10. Expect it to take 2x as long as you think.
This is just getting things apart. I'll add more tips as I put it back together.
- Location
- Golden, CO
PILOT STUDS!
jk_surgeonfish
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- AZ
Ok... back in business and running quiet now.
Some notes on the install:
1. Don't get in hurry and throw the new flexplate on. Don't forget to put the shield on first.
2. Use 3 jacks. One for engine, one for trans and one on the transfer case. It helped a lot to get things aligned up just right.
3. Have a helper when you are torquing the flexplate to crankshaft bolts. 105ft/lbs They can hold the bolt on harmonic balancer while you torque. They come in handy when putting the flexplate to torque converter bolts in as well.
4. Put all TC to Flexplate bolts on first. Then get the bolts aligned in center of bolt hole and tighten. Have your helper turn the engine over by hand and then pull each one and apply blue loctite. put on and tighten. Turn and repeat till all are done. Then do the final torque. Goes a lot faster having a helper.
5. Super long extensions for the top motor bolts. The E12 bolts were very easy to get tight when the trans is tilted down and a long extension.
6. Don't forget to refill your transfer case and transmission fluid.
I think that was it... the engine and trans went together with no issue and the rest was just taking time to make sure I didn't rush and miss something.
Some notes on the install:
1. Don't get in hurry and throw the new flexplate on. Don't forget to put the shield on first.
2. Use 3 jacks. One for engine, one for trans and one on the transfer case. It helped a lot to get things aligned up just right.
3. Have a helper when you are torquing the flexplate to crankshaft bolts. 105ft/lbs They can hold the bolt on harmonic balancer while you torque. They come in handy when putting the flexplate to torque converter bolts in as well.
4. Put all TC to Flexplate bolts on first. Then get the bolts aligned in center of bolt hole and tighten. Have your helper turn the engine over by hand and then pull each one and apply blue loctite. put on and tighten. Turn and repeat till all are done. Then do the final torque. Goes a lot faster having a helper.
5. Super long extensions for the top motor bolts. The E12 bolts were very easy to get tight when the trans is tilted down and a long extension.
6. Don't forget to refill your transfer case and transmission fluid.
I think that was it... the engine and trans went together with no issue and the rest was just taking time to make sure I didn't rush and miss something.
Similar threads
