Welding to solid stock?

XJ_ranger said:
yeah - for the BEEFY Solid Stock, id attack that with a TIG machine or go home. Id but the tabs out of 304 Stainless as well for extra strength, and make sure to use some 1" or larger bolts to hold it on for extra strength.

lets all sackride on tig welds and other things we dont understand...

Back at the grind huh opie :D

As a side note, so what tires and rims did you get?
 
tealcherokee said:
pulling/pushing the puddle has more effect w/ gas than it does it fluxcore, and with flux core id push the puddle because it doesnt fill as well as gas/soild core does

actually if you use dual shield (also called outer shield) you need to use a gas mixture. innershield you dont need any gas. if you go by what all the tetbooks say you pull flux core. pulling a weld regardless of wether its flux core or solid wire gives you more penetration then pushing a weld does. and if you set the welder good you shouldnt get much spatter regardless of wether you push or pull the weld.
 
BIGMO32 said:
actually if you use dual shield (also called outer shield) you need to use a gas mixture. innershield you dont need any gas. if you go by what all the tetbooks say you pull flux core. pulling a weld regardless of wether its flux core or solid wire gives you more penetration then pushing a weld does. and if you set the welder good you shouldnt get much spatter regardless of wether you push or pull the weld.

i always thought pushing gave you more penitration
 
by the text book, pulling gives the best penetration. but ive noticed w/ flux core that i get very similar penetration when pulling or pushing, but you get MUCH more filler into the bead when pushing. granted that might not be relevent to this situation, but in an area where you want to grind a weld smooth, pulling will leave a low weld, pushing will give you something to grind
 
generally pulling will give you a smaller weld with a more convex tongue, but it all depends on how you run the weld. you can pull a weld and get a bead that looks like you pushed it. it really depends on the welder and the technique that was used.
 
Sorry for the hi-jack, but with the knowledge I see in this thread I'd like to ask what would be the best flux core wire out there ? I had some Lincoln wire, but it burns inconsistant. Is there a better wire ? Thanks !
 
its all junk until you get into the bigger stuff. people do use 3 phase flux core stuff, it just works better outside, you dont have to worry about your gas getting blown away. but ive never had perfect luck w/ any spool of flux core for a buzz box. i honestly started buying it at walmart because it worked the same and was $7 a spool
 
Hi guys,

Just thought I'd share what limited welding experience I have to perhaps shed some light on this subject. When welding thick to thin, especially 1.5" roundstock to 1/4", I would heat the roundstock with a torch for a few seconds. I have a Miller Passport, so it's a bit different than most 110v welders, but at 140A, I like the way .023 penetrates the thicker stuff, even though the deposition rate is relatively low. This is a strutbar I had made for my super-low-budget racecar.

strutbar3-small.jpg


Roundstock is 3/4" sch80 pipe (about .190 wall thickness). Top plate is .25x1" barstock, square tube is .125 wall 1.25x1.x25, and the flange is 3/16". I preheated the roundstock and the a little of the flatstock, and it had great penetration.

strutbar4-small.jpg


A little offtopic, but 0.23 even with a wirespeed of 210ipm and ~140A is a slow process, with undercutting fairly evident, so multiple passes are REQUIRED. But you will get 100% penetration on 1/4" with a little bit of preheating.
 
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