Upper Shackle Bolt-- Welded Nut?

[SF Jeep XJ]

I'm replacing my leafs and adding longer shackles. Does the upper shackle bolt have a welded bolt like the front leaf bolt? I've read both on other threads and wanted to see if anyone knew for sure. My shackle bolt is currently seized into the sleave and I'm researching options in case I have to cut the whole thing off, and then cut into the protector to replace the nut. That is if there is a nut to replace. Thanks.

 

[ChiXJeff]

It is on my 94. The upper bolt on the left side on mine was seized into the weld nut. I ended up drilling through the threads and putting a nut on the inside. I took off the rear bumper and fished the nut in. It's been in place for 2 1/2 years now.

 

[SF Jeep XJ]

Mine is a 94 too. So the only route to replace the nut on the upper shackle bolt is through the top by removing the bumber? Did you drill, cut? Where?

There is still hope that the nut is intact and the sleeve is turning--the head is out about 1/4 inch but wont move anywhere after about a million turns w/ a 1/2 ratchet and 2 ft cheater. I'm stocking up on sawzal blades today.

Thanks

 

[Cornflake]

I replaced my shackle a few weeks ago on my '89 and it had never been done before and they came out like a dream. PB blast them for a few days ahead. It came out with a lot of elbow grease but take your time and the weld hopefully will hold. Be sure to use at least a 1/2 inch cheater bar, I used a 3/4 drive and was able to sit on the ground and slowly force it out with using my legs instead of arms. no problem....

 

[ChiXJeff]

No cutting necessary. There's a cutout that you can get into the frame rail, to fish a nut and a wrench through. Once you take the bumper off, it's pretty obvious.

 

[SF Jeep XJ]

I'm retackling the job tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

 

[SF Jeep XJ]

Mission accomplished!! I finished the install of new leaf springs and extended shackles.

Problem solved. The upper shackle bolt was seized in both nuts. I drilled a small hole in the pocket below and applied PB for 3 days and still no luck. Side 1 as I thought the nut broke the weld and was spinning free. I could trun the bolt freely once this occured, but the bolt was still locked up on both the sleeve and the nut. Solution: I cut the leaf bolt using a sawzall on first the inside and then out side. I removed the rear bumper--8 bolts-- widened the exsisting access hole using a 3 inch cutting disk to allow a socket head to reach in, and used a new jeep bolt and nut to secure. I had to use 4 washers to take up some of the bolt since it kept pushing my socket off and the access space is too small for a deep socket. Side 2: I hadn't really torqued on this side yet, so thinking it would be easier not to break the nut weld, I just cut away on the leaf bolt. After the inside cut was made, the bolt slid free from the sleeve without need of a further cut. Now the only problem was that the nut and piece of bolt were still blocking the way. I got it off with an airchissle from the inside (bumber removed) without too much trouble, but would just try to muscle it out next time. That way if the nut breaks the weld it easier to get out, and who knows it might come out. But the rust on the end of the bolt looked substatual and probably wouldn't have come off. Finished the same as the first.

This is how I did the front leaf bolts: Side 1: Broke the weld, cut the bolt on both sides w/ sawzall--recommend Irwin or Dewalt bi-metal blades, lots of gruntwork. Then took a 3 inch cutting disk and made 4 cuts in the pocket on the out side of the unibody, just like the picture that is posted on this forum. Side 2: Cut the bolts both sides, then made the cuts in the pocket. Mistake as in the rear bolts was not breaking the weld before cutting the bolt. Then used new bolts and nuts from the dealer ($6 per). I couldn't have done it without help from this site.

Thanks and hope this helps someone else in the future.

Oh, and the Jeep dealer said they had never seen that problem before and didn't have any advice. Traitors!!!