Underhood Temperature Test --RESULTS!!

I think i figured out a nice way to relocate the IAT sensor without cutting or extending the wiring.
since I'm running a spectre cowl intake, i had the idea to relocate my IAT to the cowl area, just above the brake booster, I freed up the 2 wires for the IAT from the wiring loom, got a new IAT sensor and drilled a 13mm hole in the cowl.

I then used a 22mm nut and washer to fix it from the other side, from inside the cowl.

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I checked that its working using my innovate 02 reader and its reading slightly higher than ambient in idle with the car hot, and exactly ambient while driving:greensmok
 
mmag, that's pretty cool.
 
Thanks guys,
the gold intake is a wrapping for thermal insulation, the material is called "Reflect gold" by "DEI", its available at summit racing.com in stick on sheets or tape form.

I just drove the jeep for a bit, there is a noticeable improvement in low down torque, it just pulls very smoothly from very low rpms. the engine just feels better with a sharper throttle response.

However gas mileage is screwed up! although my air fuel ratio gauge is showing no changes from before, its obviously using much more fuel than before.
 
Mmag,
That would be due to the IAT telling the PCM to run a tad rich to accomodate the "cold" air it is sensing. The AFR change may well be less than the gauge can detect, but you see it at the pump.

My IAT sits just below the TB, very near the intake port of the supercharger.

Sometimes, moving a sensor is not the best thing to do. On the other hand, I agree with your wraping the intake with insulation. Plan on doing that myself. Was, in fact, going to use the very material you are using so... Keep us in the loop on how well it holds up as I have had input from a Member I trust that this adhesive fails over time. It will either be this stuff or the Lava Mat...
 
o-gauge-steamer said:
Mmag,
That would be due to the IAT telling the PCM to run a tad rich to accomodate the "cold" air it is sensing. The AFR change may well be less than the gauge can detect, but you see it at the pump.

My IAT sits just below the TB, very near the intake port of the supercharger.

Sometimes, moving a sensor is not the best thing to do. On the other hand, I agree with your wraping the intake with insulation. Plan on doing that myself. Was, in fact, going to use the very material you are using so... Keep us in the loop on how well it holds up as I have had input from a Member I trust that this adhesive fails over time. It will either be this stuff or the Lava Mat...
Click to expand...

I'm also going to be using that gold wrap on my supercharger intake manifold. Hopefully that and the ceramic coated headers will keep the heat soak down.
 
Got a Shelby GT500 hood vent and am going to the JY to get a hood and practice and cut it in. Should look/work great.
73867-vent-2.jpg
 
Been following this thread since it started and got me thinking about installing hood vents because my engine bay gets so hot that I couldn't even hold the hood long enough to prop it up after my drive home from work. I was going to install louvers closer to the firewall and then 2 smaller ones right behind the radiator area but thinking about it, I'm more stuck in traffic than being in the highway so I decided to install the rears first. Been driving it for the past week and what a difference it makes! before I can't even touch the hood without wearing gloves, now I can literally plant my face on it! The louvers are totally different tho, they are hot and you can see heat escaping it.

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BTW, it's been raining here almost every day for the past couple of weeks, so far I have no problems with it..I just made sure that all wiring connectors got fresh coating of dielectric grease and so far so good :)
 
IMO, drip pans are needed. All of the Factory Vents come with them and it is cheap insurance against water infiltration.

But, vents do work a charm for letting out the heat. Not only reduces the chance of a vapor lock but, can reduce engine operating temps provided the rest of the system is setup to take advantage of the increased air flow.

It is a system though, and again IMO, the components needs be selected to work together which is why I run the Davies-Craig EWP115, a Ford two speed electric fan (replacing the mechanical) and have the factory Aux fan wired to operate by command of either the PCM or the pump controller via simple relay logic. On the hottest day, the rig gets to almost, but not quite, 210F. Mostly, it cycles between 194F and 201F.

And this is on a Supercharged engine...
 
o-gauge-steamer said:
IMO, drip pans are needed. All of the Factory Vents come with them and it is cheap insurance against water infiltration.

...
Click to expand...

I'm debating working up some drip pans for mine... but I wonder how much heat the drip pans prevent from getting out vs. how much damage water does to any of the electronics? o-gauge-steamer do you have any pics of your drip pans? I was thinking you created your own... but I've read SO many "louver/vent" posts on Jeep boards the past month I may have you confused w/another... :)

Here's a couple pics of mine...

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CobraMarty said:
Those are some nice vents. Are they marine/ or off a boat?
Click to expand...

They are marine stainless steel louvers coated with Rustoleum bedliner spray.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOAT-VENT-B...ps=63&clkid=9107734726615170381#ht_3527wt_267
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOAT-VENT-B...ear&hash=item2ebdd08891&vxp=mtr#ht_1301wt_952

When the weather hear clears up, i'm going to try and fabricate an aluminum cover that will attach to the top of the engine to keep water off but not block the louvers. I'm just worried when winter comes when it snows and melts, then water sits on top of the engine and freezes overnite
 
What I did was to attach the pans to the underside of the hood using the same hardware that secures the vents to the hood. The pans are open both front and rear to allow as much heat out as possible. The pans are shaped to dump the water at the back ends of the pans. If you will, the sides of the pans show a very noticeable slope to direct the water aft.

Keep in mind that the hood slopes down to the front so it take a rather large diffrential to get the water to flow aft. Good news is that it makes for a large opening at the back to let the heat out as well.
 
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