Trussing dana 30 questions

slcpunk74

NAXJA Forum User
Location
UTAH
So I did some c trusses when I did my ball joints the other day and well I wanted to do a truss on the bottom of my axle aswell. I am thinking if my axle is bent I dont want it bent more and if its not bent then I dont want it bending. I was thinking of doing something like xjrunner did but I was thinking of doing two pieces of tube from the c to the center section instead of just one. I only have 1.5x .120 tube so I was thinking under the housing would hang down too much unless I could tuck it back under the lip on the back of the housing. Tell me if Im way off base here guys.

Here is what xjranger did just to giva an idea of what I was thinking.

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Ok sorry for the crude paint work but the pink lines are 1.5x.120 tubes and the pink boxed area is flat plate(.180 or .250??).

paintedit.jpg
 
looks fine to me... just make sure you get good penetration into the housing.
my only concern would be that the weak point of the 30 is the housing itself and it flexing....
but still, any truss would be better than no truss!
I think what I'd do if you're set on doing it that way is run a strap of 1/4 inch plate around the bottom of the 30 and then weld the tube to that.
hopefully that makes sense
 
That makes great sense because the tube would weld to the plate better then the housing and I could get more weld on the housing with the plate there.
I am not set on it but I have the means and I think it would be easy enough plus I might wanna try it out next weekend.:eyes: The possible truss that is...
 
But with a strap across the bottom it'd be a bit stronger than that...
Though it still won't have nearly the strength of a full tube all the way across...
 
basically what I did but I used a bent piece of tubing, cut in half to wrap around the bottom of the centersection, then plated it in with .250" plate and added some gussets:
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Thanks skullver as always your work is an inspiration. I like the plating the bottom that is a really good idea guys so should I be doing this with the tires on the ground or should I jack it up? I would rather not pull the whole axle right now seeing that I have been wrenching a lot lately and want to do as little as possible. I was just gonna do some braces along with the tubes and bottom plate and then later pull the axle and go crazy.
 
I'm by no means a desert runner but why don't you truss the top as well? Wouldn't help strengthen it that much more?

I guess maybe you may be concerned about crunching the oil pan on impact, I'm not sure how much compression you guys can get out of these things.
 
I'm by no means a desert runner but why don't you truss the top as well? Wouldn't help strengthen it that much more?

I guess maybe you may be concerned about crunching the oil pan on impact, I'm not sure how much compression you guys can get out of these things.

I think with my setup that I could truss the top and not hit the pan but really I just know that I can make a bottom truss easier and it is supposed to be stronger then just a top. A combo of the two would not be a bad idea in my mind.
 
where I live I'd be afraid of hanging up on stuff. Have any of ya done that with a bottom truss? I'm fixin to do a truss job on my 30, still debating top and bottom or just top, thanks
 
where I live I'd be afraid of hanging up on stuff. Have any of ya done that with a bottom truss? I'm fixin to do a truss job on my 30, still debating top and bottom or just top, thanks

I live about 3miles from mountain trails so I know what you mean but I like to go fast much more then wheel now.
 
looks like a plan. there's gotta be a balance between weight, strength and clearance on these but it looks like the best compromise is giving up ground clearance for strength and you won't need as much weight as some truss jobs.


I live about 3miles from mountain trails so I know what you mean but I like to go fast much more then wheel now.

you never hard wheeled anyways :looser:
just kidding
come down to St. George with me in April
http://www.utah4x4club.com/index.php?showtopic=8596&hl=
and you can see how much fun you can have rock crawling
 
looks like a plan. there's gotta be a balance between weight, strength and clearance on these but it looks like the best compromise is giving up ground clearance for strength and you won't need as much weight as some truss jobs.




you never hard wheeled anyways :looser:
just kidding
come down to St. George with me in April
http://www.utah4x4club.com/index.php?showtopic=8596&hl=
and you can see how much fun you can have rock crawling

you find me some cheap d44 spare shafts and I will get some d30s... snap crackle pop is what Im always worried about.
 
I have a question why do some people truss the top and other truss the bottom?
What is the benifit of one over the other?
 
I think with my setup that I could truss the top and not hit the pan but really I just know that I can make a bottom truss easier and it is supposed to be stronger then just a top. A combo of the two would not be a bad idea in my mind.
 
I have a question why do some people truss the top and other truss the bottom?
What is the benifit of one over the other?

For trail rigs you do not want the truss on the bottom as it will loose you some ground clearance and hang up on rocks, etc.

High speed desert racing and stadium racers don't need the ground clearance as much as they need the strength, bottom trusses are stronger as described earlier in this thread.
 
I need to truss my boys 30 so I'm looking here for advice.
Someone who has done it, lets see a quality write up on how you went about it.
I have an idea, and I'll take good notes, but before I start I'd like some input.

For instance, welding to the pumpkin....using my MIG, is there a special wire?

:dunno:
 
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