Tri-Xenon

I would try to mount the x1010s in the stock fog location. The actual mounting... well your guess is as good as mine. Maybe they'll
bolt-up into the stock holes, maybe they won't. My projector fog brackets had to be drilled... I used bolts with retaining clips to mount my
lights through the stock holes. I didn't much care for the remote feature on the X1010s either. I had my friend wire-up my projector fogs,
and hella 500s to my oem fog switches. OEM switches work with the wiring kits you get with aftermarket lights. I used a 4 switch panel
out of a euro XJ like this:

switchpanel.jpg


BTW. I finally installed the fogs back into my Jeep, but I still need to find a nice dark place with a light surface so I can make some final
adjustments.
microDE-07.jpg


I used 6000k H3s in my fogs. I do have a 3000k H3 HID kit laying around, but I think I'll install it in my Hella 5000s. My reasoning is that
I seldom the use my 500s, and I use my fogs all the time as driving/city lights. I plan on putting the 3000ks into the Hellas this year.
microDE-06.jpg
 
Might i recommend to put some of the split black corrugated tubing over the Hella's wires to make them look a little cleaner?
 
Good advice, but the reason you see the wires in the pic is because I pulled them out. I still need to remove the lights so I can retrofit them for HID bulbs.

Did you run the wires between the bumper and the front clip? I guess there isnt much wire going to show if thats how you did it.
 
I source my euro parts from europe lol
I just sent you a PM with my contact.

Could you shoot me a PM also. I've been looking for one of those 4 switch panels that doesn't cost a fortune.
 
So we finally finished doing the Hella 500 HID conversion. I must say that there were allot of terrible write ups on 'teh internets' doing this
conversion. Everyone either drilled a 1" hole on the back of the housings to fit the HID bulb, or they used a heat gun to expand the rear
housing. Most guys used caulking like it was going out of style to seal the stock grommet, and the newly drilled 1" hole; there was even
one clown that used electrical tape to hold the HID bulb in place. Calling those retro's Ghetto-tech would be too kind IMO.

Anyways, doing a Hella 500 retro is fairly easy provided you spend the extra $15 to buy a set of H3C Mini HID bulbs. H3Cs have the exact
same dimensions of a standard H3 bulb. Standard H3 HID bulbs have too much depth.
hella500-hid03.jpg



The other trick to a clean retro is to gently remove the plugs off the wires so they slip through the stock grommet.
This is the hardest part of the retro.
hella500-hid02.jpg



Once you put everything together you end up with something clean looking.
hella500-hid04.jpg



Also, since now I have a total of 6 ballasts in my Jeep I decided to switch from a standard size aftermarket ballast (left side) to Mini ballasts
(right side). As you can see, I was able to fit two Mini ballasts in place of one standard sized ballast.
hella500-hid01.jpg



Here are the final result. I forgot to mention that I'm using 4300K H3C HID bulbs (OEM white/yellow kelvin). The yellow color's compliments
of some Hella 'Color Shieldz Protective Laminates' I picked up last week. You can get the laminates in clear, yellow, black or blue; I chose
yellow because I wanted a set of lights I could use in the fog.
hella500-hid10.jpg

hella500-hid09.jpg


And here's a pic with the lights off. Those yellow Color Shieldz have really grown on me.
GoldenEye01.jpg


... and yes... I realize I owe everyone some night shots.
 
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Urban, concerning those of us running HIDs in E-code housings producing questionable beam patterns.....

Do you think that switching to the H3C mini type bulbs would have an impact on our beam pattern?

I was under the impression that our patterns were never that great ( hot spotting, poor cut-off) was due to the face that standard HID bulbs are in fact longer, there for not focused correctly in a housing that was made for standard H3 bulbs.

Seems like this might help out a lot....
 
6054 sealed beam headlights are set-up for an H4 bulb, so retrofitting them for an H3C bulb is a bit futile. I can't compare focal points because I don't have an H4 blub or cross section of a sealed beam to compare to my spare H3C.

If you want the best light output without doing a projector retro (which I highly recommend) than pick-up an oem D2S hid kit, and install it into a sealed beam using H4 to D2S/D2R Adaptors. You'll lose your high beam, but than again H3Cs or standard H4 HIDs don't have a high beam either.
 
Nice work as usual my friend.
A lot of would be retrofitters could take a lesson from you...
on the subject of color optics
Do you think Color shield is better than Lamin-x?
I plan on doing this
Westyyellowfogs.jpg
 
6054 sealed beam headlights are set-up for an H4 bulb, so retrofitting them for an H3C bulb is a bit futile. I can't compare focal points because I don't have an H4 blub or cross section of a sealed beam to compare to my spare H3C.

If you want the best light output without doing a projector retro (which I highly recommend) than pick-up an oem D2S hid kit, and install it into a sealed beam using H4 to D2S/D2R Adaptors. You'll lose your high beam, but than again H3Cs or standard H4 HIDs don't have a high beam either.

So right now I have a standard h4 HID kit installed, will the d2s/d2r bulbs be, along with the adapters, a direct replacement?
 
It should be a painless swap. You will need:
- a set of D2S/D2R bulbs (duh, obviously hehe).
- a set of H4 to D2S/D2R Adaptors.
- a D2S/D2R Converter Connector Adapter Plug if you decide to keep your current ballasts.

All those parts will run you around 50 bucks on ebay, and you'll walk away with a better
quality bulb along with an improved cut-off. Once assembled it should look like this:
D1Sconversion.jpg
 
Looks pretty straight forward.
I am getting kind of annoyed by having to angle my head lights down more than they should be to avoid blinding the incoming traffic...

Thanks for all the useful information and links, greatly appreciated.


I will take some before and after pics comparing beams once i do this.
 
Looks pretty straight forward.
I am getting kind of annoyed by having to angle my head lights down more than they should be to avoid blinding the incoming traffic...

Thanks for all the useful information and links, greatly appreciated.


I will take some before and after pics comparing beams once i do this.

Please do...I have E-codes and would be willing to ditch my "bi-xenon" if I can get a better cutoff. Besides, I always have KC Daylighters for High-Beams!
 
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