TIG/MIG/Oxy/Acetylene questions

[Jeep450r]

So I just brought these guys home.

So I know that the buzz box is a TIG/Stick machine but thats about it. Is anybody familiar with this machine/tig torch? Now we need bottles for Argon, Oxygen, and Acetylene.

I know I need 100% Argon for the TIG welder. Can I use the same 100% Argon for MIG welding instead of a 75/25 argon/CO2 mix? I have an itty bitty 110v MIG I will be using for now.

Is it possible to get a large tank of 100% argon and somehow mix it with the gas from a smaller CO2 tank to get the 75/25 mixture?

 

[Jeep450r]

How about grinders for the tungsten? What should I use for that? I learned in my engineering class that the sparks created when grinding tungsten are radioactive or something (can't remember exactly). Is that something I should be worried about?

 

[SolarBell]

On a scale of 1-10 of difficulty, MIG is a 2, TIG is a 9. I'd run that machine as a MIG or stick until you get lots of practice with the larger machine. And you can grind the tungsten electrodes on a bench grinder. I wouldn't try to inhale them, but I wouldn't try to inhale steel particles either.

 

[old_man]

The cost of running a tig gets high due to the amount of gas you end up using. Personally I find TIG easier to use.

 

[Jeep450r]

TIG is something I have wanted to learn for years, so I am looking forward to the challenge.

Any tips for a starter?

 

[SleeperXJ]

I'd say machine setup is the toughest part. That may not be true for more modern machines.
Start with steel to learn. It's very similar to oxy/acetylene welding. Torch control and filler rod dabbing are close to what you'll do with TIG. Nice thing about TIG is the heat is much more concentraited.

 

[xcm]

For grinding electrodes, ive found that chucking them up in a cordless drill, then taking them to the bench top belt sander and spinning them as you grind makes quick work of it.... Which is good, as you'll probably be doing a lot of electrode grinding. My biggest problem when learning TIG was balling up the electrode. I was really starting to stress over it, so i moved my belt sander closer, and prep'd 5 or 6 electrodes at a time. DONT BE SHY, if its contaminated change it out!

Also, comfort is key, get yourself a stool so you can work that foot pedal.

Also, if that thing has high frequency start, be carefull about catching stray arc rays, i flashed the shit out my eyes the very first day messing with TIG. Coming from 220v MIG, i didnt have enough fear or respect for the arc. A casual run in with mig arc's was nothing to be concerned with, so besides not OBVIOUSLY staring at it, i didnt have the fear.

As usual, PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE! Welcome to the big league!

 

[xcm]

And no, dont even think about trying to mix your own mixes. Save money by selling your oxy/accyl setup.... Ive had one in my shop for 10+ years, learned to weld on it, but havent used it since i got a MIG. Needless fire hazard.

 

[SleeperXJ]

My biggest problem when learning TIG was balling up the electrode.

XCM, I vaguely remember doing this. I recall it was only required when welding Al.


Anyway, the Tigmate was a good investment. Im sure you'll enjoy using it.

 

[xcm]

no, by balling up i mean ACCIDENTLY transfering steel from the weldment, to the electrode. By bumping the electrode into the metal, or hitting the electrode with your filler.

I did NOT mean PURPOUSLY transfering a ball onto the tip of your electrode.

 

[2stix]

actually SleeperXJ is correct. the tungsten will form a ball at the tip naturally. amperage will determine what size tungsten and how big the ball will develop.
but ya, hitting the work or the rod sucks. i keep a well plenished supply next to me with fresh ground tips. lol. and the cordless drill trick works great. i have a dedicated grinding wheel just for tungsten. it has made a nice little groove in the wheel now which hold the tips in just right.

 

[alex22]

Thoriated tungsten is slightly radioactive, avoid breathing the dust while sharpening it. You will want to use a dedicated grinding wheel to avoid contaminating the tungsten. I prefer to use non thoriated tungsten such as "rare earth" and "tri mix" for steel and aluminum. Lanthanated and ceriated tungstens are good for aluminum.
Gas mixers are very expensive ($1000+) so you're best bet would be to pick up one bottle for AG25 and one for straight argon. I didn't see a foot pedal in the pics, as XCM suggested, if you want to learn TIG then you are going to want a foot pedal, lift TIG is more difficult.
When AC TIG welding aluminum the tungsten will start to ball up depending on the amperage and the wave balance. When welding on DC the tungsten should stay sharp,

Oxy/acetylene is a great tool to have around as well, you just need to be safe when using it. Put a set of flashback arrestors at the base of the torch and turn off the bottles when you are not using them.

The first hundred hours are the hardest.

~Alex

 

[Jeep450r]

Thanks a lot for the tips guys. I do have a foot pedal for the tig, just didn't show the pics. I have done a tiny bit of welding with oxy/acetylene, but never used filler rod... Just practiced melting 2 pieces together. I have plenty of metal to learn on, just need gas now.

As for the stick welder, It came with a box of 6013 rods. A buddy of mine in one of my classes in college said that 6013 rod can be kind of temperamental. Then he threw out a bunch of random numbers saying they were better and easier to use. Is 6013 fine for learning on?

I take it you can't use 100% argon for MIG welding, right?

Im totally new to most of this stuff. I had no intentions of getting a TIG/SMAW machine or even a torch, but it all pretty much fell in my lap. Couldn't beat the price tag either.... free is pretty hard to beat :laugh3:

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[time2getdirty]

for learning arc grab some 6010 and some 7018. Both are the most used rods. I will double your price for the machine if you want to sell... what is 0x2?

 

[ChiXJeff]

turn off the bottles when you are not using them.

This is just good practice, regardless of what sort of bottle you've got.

 

[machinisttx]

I don't recall ever using any 6013 rods, but I have used 6010+, 6011, and 7118. 6011 is what I've used most and aren't hard to learn with. Matching your amperage and stick size to the workpiece are more critical than the rod spec...assuming you're using a compatible rod to start with.

IMO, TIG is easier to learn than stick, though it requires more coordination. Shoot the juice to it, and as soon as you start to see a puddle it's time to start adding filler and moving. You need to using a lens shade about 2 steps darker than what would be used for stick at the same amperage. I normally run a 9 when using stick and 11-12 when using TIG.

There are several gas mixes for mig and tig. Argon, CO2, and 75/25 are most common. IIRC, some materials need different shield gas.

You need to check the duty cycle of that machine. Hobart has manuals with the duty cycle on their website. I can see a 20% @ 130 amps duty cycle(stick weld) listing on the control plate. That may or may not change depending on stick or tig use. It appears to be a liquid cooled machine, so be sure to keep it full.