This question might be dumb.

[fdsa487]

Ok well i found on my Jeep which is a 2000 XJ w/ a 4.5" RE lift, 32" M/T's the only thing that is limiting my down travel in the front is the control arms where they mount to the axel. There is a metal piece above the lower control arm that sticks out from where they mount on both sides and the top of the control arm hits that metal piece and it stops the travel. Is there a name for this? Is this the "binding" i hear about sometimes?

The question that i want answered is, when i get the TNT kit, will this not happen anymore or do i need to cut that metal piece off so that it does not touch the control arm?

Here are some pictures of the piece that im talking about if i was not clear enough in the above paragraphs.

You can see in this picture where the control arm is worn a little bit where it hits that mount above it.

 

[xj-grin]

That bracket is a limiting factor on a lot of rigs, and lots of folks have notched them for more droop. Don't bother though, as once you have the TNT radius setup, there won't be any movement at the axle mounting points at all, as all of the articulation will come from the frame mount. :wave:

 

[fdsa487]

once you have the TNT radius setup, there won't be any movement at the axle mounting points at all, as all of the articulation will come from the frame mount. :wave:

And that is the best place for the movement to come from, right?

 

[fdsa487]

And that is the best place for the movement to come from, right?

yay or nay ? yay or nay!

 

[cracker]

yay or nay ? yay or nay!

All personal preference. No body can give you that answer.

-C

 

[xj-grin]

yay or nay ? yay or nay!

you can search on this for hours and form your own opinion. Do you want to avoid slight variations with caster during articulation? If so, don't do a radius style longarm. If you believe this is hardly an issue since articulation is minimal during high speed travel when you might care about caster (as I do), then knock yourself out and enjoy your TnT setup.

 

[fdsa487]

you can search on this for hours and form your own opinion. Do you want to avoid slight variations with caster during articulation? If so, don't do a radius style longarm. If you believe this is hardly an issue since articulation is minimal during high speed travel when you might care about caster (as I do), then knock yourself out and enjoy your TnT setup.

So your saying that radius style longarms are more for high speed than quality articulation?

 

[xj-grin]

dude, search on "caster" and "longarm" and read for a couple of days and come back and ask again -- this has truely been beaten to death. hasta

 

[Fergie]

Just cut the overhanging piece off, and leave enough room for the shock to mount and you will be good.

Fergie

 

[xjj33p3r]

Just cut the overhanging piece off, and leave enough room for the shock to mount and you will be good.

Fergie

Fergie, once he gets the TNT kit, it won't matter if that piece is there or not. The control arm mount on the axle will never see any movement from the control arm again.

 

[fdsa487]

dude, search on "caster" and "longarm" and read for a couple of days and come back and ask again -- this has truely been beaten to death. hasta

Just answer the question and no one gets hurt.

 

[xj-grin]

Just answer the question and no one gets hurt.

geez, didn't mean to "hurt" you -- just the question you are asking appears to be: "did I screw up buying the kit I did after I sought out everyones advice on this board for weeks?"

But, just to avoid any additional emotional bruising... caster affects the steering response of a vehicle, and the stock 5 link design of an XJ is designed to have consistent caster throughout the travel of the suspension. This makes it more manageable onroad, in theory. My point is that unless you are doing some serious steering manuvers at speed, while compressing your suspension, minor changes in castor are fairly irrelevant, IMHO. SO, a radius arm design (i.e. Tnt, Rustys, RELA, Clayton, Ford Broncos, Mitsubishi Monteros, Toyota FJ-80's, Landrover...etc.) while it will allow for castor change during articulation, also provides a better ride in an XJ at increased lift heights by returning the trailing arm to a more horizontal position, and may (the debate here is endless) result in improved articulation. :kissyou:

 

[fdsa487]

geez, didn't mean to "hurt" you -- just the question you are asking appears to be: "did I screw up buying the kit I did after I sought out everyones advice on this board for weeks?"

But, just to avoid any additional emotional bruising... caster affects the steering response of a vehicle, and the stock 5 link design of an XJ is designed to have consistent caster throughout the travel of the suspension. This makes it more manageable onroad, in theory. My point is that unless you are doing some serious steering manuvers at speed, while compressing your suspension, minor changes in castor are fairly irrelevant, IMHO. SO, a radius arm design (i.e. Tnt, Rustys, RELA, Clayton, Ford Broncos, Mitsubishi Monteros, Toyota FJ-80's, Landrover...etc.) while it will allow for castor change during articulation, also provides a better ride in an XJ at increased lift heights by returning the trailing arm to a more horizontal position, and may (the debate here is endless) result in improved articulation. :kissyou:

Thanks! My feelings were not hurt at all BTW Im a easy going guy and i dont get offended easly. Thanks for the explanation though it is very well put. Also i have not purchased any long arm kit yet. I still have the RE 4.5 superflex on my rig. I have the money now for one but i dont know what im going to do yet. I just ordered some rock rails and diff guards and bilstein 5150's

 

[RCP Phx]

But, just to avoid any additional emotional bruising... caster affects the steering response of a vehicle, and the stock 5 link design of an XJ is designed to have consistent caster throughout the travel of the suspension. This makes it more manageable onroad, in theory. My point is that unless you are doing some serious steering manuvers at speed, while compressing your suspension, minor changes in castor are fairly irrelevant, IMHO. SO, a radius arm design (i.e. Tnt, Rustys, RELA, Clayton, Ford Broncos, Mitsubishi Monteros, Toyota FJ-80's, Landrover...etc.) while it will allow for castor change during articulation, also provides a better ride in an XJ at increased lift heights by returning the trailing arm to a more horizontal position, and may (the debate here is endless) result in improved articulation. :kissyou:

A "stock"(non-lifted) set-up maintains "reasonable" castor throughout its travel.That all goes out the window once lifted.