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Switch to Synthetic Oil?

How about 5 quarts of Dino 10W30 oil and 1 quart of Lucas Stabalizer? That's what I did and like how my oil pressure is staying up even at idle in my 98' 5 speed with 131K miles. Before the oil change the pressure would drop to 15 or so, the manual says 12 psi is o.k., but with the Lucas added I can keep about 30 psi most of the time until the Jeep warms up and after 1/2 hour the lowest is gets is like 20 psi in neutral/idle.
 
maybe you should start to run a blend for a oil change or two then switch it to full syn. thats what i did in my 96 i used blend for about a year from about 137-163ish and then just switched to full syn the last oil change with 164 on the clock. i noticed before that the bottom of my filter and oil pan and even the trans pan was always wet with oil before but now i got up under the other day and it was looking all dryed up and the bottom of the K&N filter was dry thats another thing i decided to spend the extra money on too. so id say try it. another thing that it did was now my oil pressure is always at 40 or so at idle and its always around 65-70 while im driving and its still there after about 3300 miles.
 
langer1 said:
The internal combustion engine running on Gas or Diesel is a very dirty piece of equipment.

Depends a LOT on the engine. The Jeep, yes... the oil gets black pretty quickly. But I still "trust" the better formulation, and better lubricating qualities, of the synthetic to allow me to stretch the interval... within reason.

My old Dodge Stratus... and the new Honda... both have oil that was still "honey-like" at 3k miles. On the Stratus, I'd gradually pushed the dino-oil change interval out to 5k, where it was still only a syrup-like brown. If the engine burns clean enough to not produce the ugly byproducts, they won't get into the oil...

In the Jeep's case, rather than changing dino juice every 3k, I run Mobil 1 for 6k, with a midterm filter change. With the current high cost of dino juice (close to $2/quart!), the $4/qt Mobil 1 costs me little more than regular oil did... PLUS, I use (and have to dispose of...) half as much oil.

Den
 
This may not matter, but I've seen numerous Used Oil Analyses on the 4.0 and Mobil 1 10W30 has shown elevated iron wear rates.
I know many say "Well, I've run Mobil 1 10W30 for XXX,XXX miles and no problem."
But without doing a UOA, you don't know how well your drivetrain is being protected, or how many more XXX,XXX miles you could get with an oil that has better metal wear rates.
If anybody wants a look, I have loads of data on this engine, using various brands, and viscosities.
 
bewilderedbeast said:
This may not matter, but I've seen numerous Used Oil Analyses on the 4.0 and Mobil 1 10W30 has shown elevated iron wear rates.
I know many say "Well, I've run Mobil 1 10W30 for XXX,XXX miles and no problem."
But without doing a UOA, you don't know how well your drivetrain is being protected, or how many more XXX,XXX miles you could get with an oil that has better metal wear rates.
If anybody wants a look, I have loads of data on this engine, using various brands, and viscosities.

Please post what you have on the 4.0L and different oil, we all want to know about that. Kelley (5-90) would also want this for his research he has done on Jeeps I'm sure.

thanks,

Troy
 
speaking of synthetic. my jeep has run probably dino oil in it sense new. well today my breather hose fell off. and i was appealed at the amount of sludge in the valve area. so im going to take that valve cover off and clean it up a bit.
 
Big Red said:
Please post what you have on the 4.0L and different oil, we all want to know about that. Kelley (5-90) would also want this for his research he has done on Jeeps I'm sure.

thanks,

Troy

What I have is on an Excel spredasheet, I'd be happy to send it to whoever wants, or I can summmarize and hit the hight spots in a post, whichever is better.
 
bewilderedbeast said:
What I have is on an Excel spredasheet, I'd be happy to send it to whoever wants, or I can summmarize and hit the hight spots in a post, whichever is better.
If you want, PM me with an email address to make contact. I will attempt to "webify" the spreadsheet and make it publicly available.
 
went to quaker state synthetic about 1500K ago, now I have leaks, and lower oil pressure at idle. It hasnt turned black, and it seems like it is working ok, but wouldnt use it again, back to Valvoline for me!
 
Royal Purple 10w-40 summer, 10 30 winter. K&N or Wix(napa) filter. been using it for over a year now. i could definately tell it was cleaning the dino residue as i changed it every 3K.
no changes in pressure tho. its always stayed right over 40 at idle and about 50 under normal driving.

i now run it about 6K(calls for 10-12K with a mid filter change i think). i
it has held up to my 5000RPM engine revs so far ;)

edit: i just read the subject line. whould you switch? if you want, i dunno :)
 
I thought I read somewhere that RP puts moly in their oil.
 
i have read this as wel but also thought it was only in their racing oils. Moly only causes adverse affects when the oil is used in extreme extended situations. anybody else have any comments on it.


edit. I sent them an EMAIL, i'll post what they have to say when i get it. might be a good reason to switch to Amsoil.
 
Last edited:
Gator4x said:
Anyone noticed the manual actually says 7500 miles between oil changes for normal driving?

Yes, but... their definition of "normal" specifically excludes:

- idling
- lots of highway
- lots of short trips
- cold-weather operation
- hot-weather operation
- towing

Almost nobody qualifies as "normal". My dealers (who, of course, are trying to sell lots of oil changes!) have always said that in this area (western PA) EVERYBODY qualifies as "severe duty", and must follow the severe schedule for maintenance.

(The unstated penalty is loss of warranty coverage... but I've never had one who was THAT BOLD about it).

Den
 
bewilderedbeast said:
This may not matter, but I've seen numerous Used Oil Analyses on the 4.0 and Mobil 1 10W30 has shown elevated iron wear rates.
I know many say "Well, I've run Mobil 1 10W30 for XXX,XXX miles and no problem."
But without doing a UOA, you don't know how well your drivetrain is being protected, or how many more XXX,XXX miles you could get with an oil that has better metal wear rates.
If anybody wants a look, I have loads of data on this engine, using various brands, and viscosities.

I have seen simular UOA tests where I work, and Mobil oil did our tests every 3 months.
 
EricT said:
That and Fram

Why do you hate their marketing campain, or is their oil really that inferior???
 
EricT said:
I thought I read somewhere that RP puts moly in their oil.
For you EricT and anybody else who gives a fawk, this is my response from RP.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From : Patrick Burris <[email protected]>
Reply-To : <[email protected]>
Sent : Tuesday, September 12, 2006 11:36 AM
To : "'ryan marshall'" <[email protected]>
Subject : RE: Auto Oil Question, please respond.




Ryan
As usual the information you got from Amsoil is not correct. Royal
Purple does not use MOLY.


Thanks
Patrick Burris
Motorsports Marketing Coordinator
One Royal Purple Lane
Porter TX. 77365
Office 281-354-8600 Ext 241
Fax 281-354-7335
Cell 713-705-9201

-----Original Message-----
From: ryan marshall [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 1:55 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Auto Oil Question, please respond.

I have been using your automobile oil in my Jeep 4.0 for about a year. I
was recently told you guys were making it wth MOLY. Amsoil claims their oil
causes less wear on metals because they don't use MOLY. so what is the
deal? am i doing more harm on my motor than i think? am i clongging lines
and filters prematurely because of the MOLY addative?

thanks
Ryan Marshall
VA
 
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