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subs in xjs

Here's my set-up, sort of.. I took the 15" back out, it's an older one I had laying around my house, I'm trying to patch the hole in it.. Just dont have the right tools/material. But the 10" L7 stays in there.. It rocks most comparable subs you put up against it.
I roll around, and people are like "What you got in there? Two 12's?"
"Nope, 1 10"."

2133994_18_full.jpg
 
5-90 said:
Helpful tip for "appearance grade" plywood - apply a good masking tape (I like the 3M "blue" tape) over where you're going to drill to keep "surface pull-up" down. A couple layers certainly won't go amiss. Ditto cutting (use a sharp saw, preferably fairly fine teeth) and smaller bits can be wrapped in paper for handling when appearance is critical...

MDF looks like sawdust because it is sawdust - mixed with glue and rolled into sheets. That's also why it's so damn heavy - it's rather denser than plain wood, and the glue that holds it together is even denser (and there's more of it than in plywood...)

Principal advantage? I believe that MDF is easier to "steam and shape" into true curves, and it's cheaper because it starts life as "mill scrap."

5-90


main advantage to using birch is its lighter and has a higher resonating frequencie than mdf. so with birch you get a truer reperduction of sound where mdf can actually amplifie certain hz's
 
Here's a new twist on the already used method. I took the cubby part off a spare panel and attached it to the box so the fit was as good as possible. I sealed the holes in the top of the cubby and everything else. Notice the notch slide as you need to take a 1/2" notch so it will fit as flush as possible to the side panel.

notch.jpg
 
Alademuerte said:
Here's my set-up, sort of.. I took the 15" back out, it's an older one I had laying around my house, I'm trying to patch the hole in it.. Just dont have the right tools/material. But the 10" L7 stays in there.. It rocks most comparable subs you put up against it.
I roll around, and people are like "What you got in there? Two 12's?"
"Nope, 1 10"."

2133994_18_full.jpg
I've "repaired" holes like that one just by layering in beads of acoustical sealant and smoothing them as they dry. You don't want a huge layer because the stuff absorbs vibration and will dampen the movement of the cone, but enough to seal all the holes up. Keep in mind this is not a true repair. The speaker will lose some of its functionality, particularly in producing higher frequencies, but at least it won't rattle or buzz anymore. In my case, after I repaired a large hole like the one above, I used it in a bass cabinet rather than for guitar. It wasn't good as new, but it did the job...
 
txredxj said:
main advantage to using birch is its lighter and has a higher resonating frequencie than mdf. so with birch you get a truer reperduction of sound where mdf can actually amplifie certain hz's
In my experience, the only advantage to using birch plywood over MDF or HDF is weight. When talking about resonating frequencies in speaker boxes, its better to think of it as a function of the thickness and density of the material rather than the type of material itself. The less likely a material is to resonate at all, the better.

Everything resonates, and everything has a particular resonating frequency that it 'prefers'. This frequency isn't just a singluar feature of the material though, it varies by thickness, size, density, temperature, etc. A box can be built to prevent some resonance, although it can't entirely be defeated.

Gluing joints, using screws for construction, sealing all seams on the inside with acoustical sealant, applying 'ribs' to interior surfaces, coating/covering the interior with sound dampening materials, and using a laminated baffle at least 1" thick, all contribute to make a much bigger difference in minimizing resonance than the choice of material. I've used hardwood plywoods like birch and oak as well as treated douglas fir, MDF and HDF. They all pretty much work the same when the above techniques are used.

MDF and HDF are superior in that they are very dense and rigid, but in turn are quite heavy, and when cut, release a nasty dust. Baltic birch can accomplish similar deadness in a lighter material, which is definitely an advantage when building very large boxes, but where I am, its expensive and hard to get. Fiberglas over foam core works too and makes a lighter box, but its pretty time consuming. I've never seen a metal speaker enclosure that I liked. They always buzz, rattle or resonate something awful. Not to say it couldn't be done, I just haven't seen it.

All that said, in my own XJ, I've got a cheesy underbuilt double 8" box that came with my sister-in-law's car and a huge ghetto MDF box with a single 12" that I bought at the Salvation Army store for 5.99. I really need to set up something better...
 
Jeez, seriously.. Some people think they go overboard when they put like JL's or Kenwoods or something in like that... But Memphis has some SERIOUS PUNCH... GOOD LORD.
 
Here is my set up!

JL XR650CSi ( Front Speakers )
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=120

JL XR525CXi ( Rear Speakers )
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=68

JL 300/4 Slash ( To power speakers )
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=254

JL 250/1 Slash ( To power Sub )
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=251

JL 12W3v2 ( 12' Sub )
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=12

Soundstream SC-1
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16345



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This system is crazy loud! I am really enjoying it.

Has anyone added Dyamate to there Cherokee? So much stuff in my car is rattling... Just wondering what others have done! Thanks!
 
How are the components in the door? Did you have to modify door at all to fit the depth of those speakers i think they are 2.8 inches mounting depth. I thought the doors could only take 2.5 inches. Just curious to know because im looking to buy some DLS components and was weary of mouting depth. Thanks
 
Thought I had posted a pic of my small set up....guess I didn't...

anyways.....2 10's and a 400 watt amp.....just enough kick for me....and sounds pretty damn good considering they're pushin 6 years old and they were given to me for free.

hpim1382zh1.jpg


One of these days i'll get around to upgrading the OEM speakers and fixing that damn wire on the drivers door one
 
OUG said:
Here is a look at my dual 8" subs running in phase in a isobaric box. Crisp base with punch, and it still gives me my cargo area.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b368/OUG/IMG_0275.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b368/OUG/IMG_0277.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b368/OUG/IMG_0276.jpg

I'm interested in how you set all that up. That's kinda what i'm wanting to do....cause boy do I miss my cargo space when i'm haulin stuff b/w school and home on the weekends.
 
99XJSPORT06,
Mostly it was just using cardboard cutouts to get the bevel and shape right. When the back seat is up everything sits flush to it so there are no gaps and it looks tight. The main front face is just a piece of plywood flat to the wheel well. The front sub was positioned so that the rear hole didn't need to be there for it to fit. My RF subs were shallow enough that the depth of the wheel well fit their size just fine. Then I just cut the back hole and sealed everything up inside. I put a little polyfill in the box and stuck the speakers in. 100W amp bridged.
 
2 15" audiopipe eye candy's powered by a poweracoustik 1600 2 channel, and MB quart components up front powered by an old alpine 4 channel.

from what the cops say i can be heard from 5 blocks away. from what mom says.... 1 mile but shes a mom. and from what my neighbors say "shut the hell up!"

ill put some pics up sometime... its kinda jimmy rigged in for the moment. havent had enough time to really make a nice lookin set up, but the plan is an all fiberglass box that can hold a couple more 15's all my amps and capacitors and batteries and have a good airbrush paint job on it... maybe a reaper or something
 
Here is my system. Complete fabrication done myself. Ultimate B-Quiet sound deading (Dynamat) covers from floor to ceiling. Plastic pieces lined with felt to reduce vibs.

-Deck is Alpine 9855
-two sets of SPX-177R's 6 1/2" , tweeter, crossover
-two Memphis 12" DVC M3's
-just one Memphis Belle 5 channel amp
- 2 ohm load on four channels 75 watts to each channel
- 1 ohm load to each sub 200 watts each

Not alot of power is needed if you do things right.

head.jpg

ddoor.jpg

pdoor.jpg

rears.jpg

behind.jpg

singrear.jpg

wholerear.jpg

witcover.jpg
 
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