Stroker Renewal?

Frank likes to pimp me, particularly now that he smeared "curse" all over my rig:dunce:

Update -- the head has been planed 0.015 and is now true. Machine shop may be done with it tomorrow, perhaps get the rig from Leonard on Friday. The machine shop has verified that stem height, spring height, guides, etc. are all within spec and in good shape. Multiple sets of eyes and hands can find nothing in the low end, lifters, pistons which would be causing the knock, and the head will at this point be essentially new (with my current springs and rockers). The plan is to bolt it up, fire it up, and give it a listen -- cross your fingers folks.:fuse:
 
WOOT! - push rod issue may be solved! On second look, the machine shop believes the Crane springs are indeed binding at full-open, causing the pushrods to bend, plus the spring retainers appear to be keeping the valves from reaching the proper height - new springs and retainers on the way to solve the issue! Odd though - my Crane cam had higher lift than the Crower that is in there now, and the old head was decked more, resulting in even more effective lift -- I ran these same springs on that head with no issues for over 90k... best Leonard and I can come up with is that when the last head was preped, the valve seats were altered or something - Adam's receipts from the machine shop don't have that kind of detail, so its just speculating (feel free to chime in if the answer comes to you Adam!).

Regardless, machine work is done and I'll likely be back in business by Friday!:clap: (still cautiously optimistic, since Frank smeared curse on me... :eek:)
 
shop said the diffence was in the 2 heads.

Leonard - -so they think the last head had the seats machined to accept those springs? It would make sense, I guess. Frank, IIRC you had yours machined to take a chevy spring, no??

Either way, thanks for helping to solve the problem, Leonard. Go figure it would be where we failed to look for it....
 
Ummm that was a while back... I don't remember Chris... I do remember the shop having to work at it to get the springs and what not to fit properly. So I would not at all be surprised. I'm glad to hear there is a likely resolution to this. V8's arn't meant for Jeeps... :)
 
The silence is DEAFENING!!!!!!!!!

The valve springs and retainers are on order as I understand, expected Monday, likely Leonard will be done mid-week with re-assembly. Patience, grasshopper. You'll know its done when I tell you to get your hoist out of my garage :flipoff:
 
I know where most of it is...:doh:

Since you seem to want an update, the machine shop tried to re-use my crane springs, opted to order new springs and retainers from Crower specified for this cam - might have come in today in which case they might get the head back to Leonard tomorrow, in which case I might get the jeep Friday. I'm betting early next week (not a slight on Leonard at all, I'm just a pessimist lately). The machine shop will be doing some work to the valve seats to ensure I get a spot on spring height... :cheers:
 
Should've got a V8!

Talkin out the bung hole I see.............:moon:

I will be the next to build a stroker for my Beasty :D
 
SOOOOO - I have the rig back, and Leonard and the machine shop appear to have the compression issues solved, and likely the pushrod issues as well. BUT, I still have a fairly loud knock/tap, still sounds high, still throwing a cyl 3 misfire code... frustrated, but appreciative of Leonard for his efforts.

I'll be pulling the stroker again on Saturday afternoon, likely throwing in a stock 4.0 soon, perhaps Sunday -- just can't keep tinkering and hope to make it to Moab in May. Once I have some other projects done, I'll tear the stroker back down on the stand and see if we can't figure out WTF is the problem...:confused1
 
A brief refresher and my thoughts in blue later....
So, pulled the #6 rod bearing today -- as somewhat expected, and dreaded, it is showing significant wear on the upper bearing surface. Talking with FrankZ, I understand this to mean the connecting rods are "egged", and I need to pull the crank and have it polished, as well as have new connecting rods fitted. Great. :thumbdn:

I am mulling over my options at this point, since we're talking about a significant amount of work and $$, and I'm kindof torn. My issues are:

1) I don't want to end up in Frank's world, pulling, reinstalling, and pulling, reinstalling strokers every few months due to new and varied issues;

2) I pull a trailer with my rig and don't particularly want to go back to stock power;

3) I do want to get her up and running shortly, but if I am doing an "engine swap" (i.e. pulling everything out), I would actually consider something to increase the power/reliability as well, provided I could keep costs down.

What are you guys' thoughts? I really haven't ever considered a V8 swap, and if I was going to go down that road, I'd likely prefer a diesel anyways instead -- finances really don't allow caddy-style spending either, you all know how that is nowadays. I guess I should bite the bullet, borrow Frank's hoist and pull the fooker out of there -- thoughts, suggestions, sympathy, ridicule?? :eyes::peace:

Teardown is now complete, and we have some serious bearing issues. First off, cylinders 1-3 rod bearings (uppers) all showing wear (ignore the dunkin donuts stuff Troy, the box just happens to be in the picture... :dunce:):

PC260197.jpg


Cylinders 4-6 aren't any better:

PC260199.jpg


As I was tearing it down, I noted that the crank had nearly 1/16 inch of end-play... since the FSM apparently calls for a max of 6/1000, this is not good. Turns out the thrust bearing (between cylinders 2 and 3) was pretty damn hammered. Lower bearing:

PC260201.jpg


Upper Bearing:

PC260205.jpg


The crank may be beyond saving, you can almost see the 1/32+ groove in the thrust surface (very clear in person, the photo may not be so hot):

PC260200.jpg


The balance of the main bearings looked good with little noticeable wear, with the exception of the upper on #1:

PC260203.jpg


Anyways, it'll all head to the machine shop this week, and we'll see where we are. Hopefully the crank can be saved...:fuse:

I know the machine shop checked and resized the Crankshaft Side of the connecting rod, but what about the wrist pin hole in the rod and in the piston itself? Seems to me that out of round conditions in either could be the cause of the knock.

What do you think of pulling the crankshaft and giving each connecting rod (special attention to #6) a little up and down action to check for any play?
 
A brief refresher and my thoughts in blue later....




I know the machine shop checked and resized the Crankshaft Side of the connecting rod, but what about the wrist pin hole in the rod and in the piston itself? Seems to me that out of round conditions in either could be the cause of the knock.

What do you think of pulling the crankshaft and giving each connecting rod (special attention to #6) a little up and down action to check for any play?

I think you smoke too much crack, and we can chase that bunny once the XJ actually runs again... :kissyou: Pretty sure Lynn looked all the pistons over while he had them.
 
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