Stroker Renewal?

So, pulled the #6 rod bearing today -- as somewhat expected, and dreaded, it is showing significant wear on the upper bearing surface. Talking with FrankZ, I understand this to mean the connecting rods are "egged", and I need to pull the crank and have it polished, as well as have new connecting rods fitted. Great. :thumbdn:

I am mulling over my options at this point, since we're talking about a significant amount of work and $$, and I'm kindof torn. My issues are:

1) I don't want to end up in Frank's world, pulling, reinstalling, and pulling, reinstalling strokers every few months due to new and varied issues;

2) I pull a trailer with my rig and don't particularly want to go back to stock power;

3) I do want to get her up and running shortly, but if I am doing an "engine swap" (i.e. pulling everything out), I would actually consider something to increase the power/reliability as well, provided I could keep costs down.

What are you guys' thoughts? I really haven't ever considered a V8 swap, and if I was going to go down that road, I'd likely prefer a diesel anyways instead -- finances really don't allow caddy-style spending either, you all know how that is nowadays. I guess I should bite the bullet, borrow Frank's hoist and pull the fooker out of there -- thoughts, suggestions, sympathy, ridicule?? :eyes::peace:
 
Chris,
The engine doesn't abosolutely have to come out....but it sure will make life much easier.

I'm sure there are some folks that will tell you that you should just slap some bearings in a run it. My rationale for removing the crank and rods is this:

Anything else and you won't get another 90k miles out of it.

As far as power options are concerned...stick with the stroker. A stock 4.0L can be bolted to, and added on to until your wallet is empty and it still won't make the low end torque that your stroker will.

A V8 will certainly provide for tons of power...but take it from me....it's a booger getting from a stroker with some issues to a running V8.

Do you need a a fresh drop in stroker? No you don't....so no I won't sell ya mine, not even for twice the asking price, seriously.

Get the crank and rods checked out, invest in some new bearings, gaskets, and time and you'll be back on the road with minimal down time and minimal cash outlay.
 
Ditto to what Frank said. Believe it or not........ :D

Seems to me your cheapest and quickest fix would be to have a machine shop measure your rods and see if any need replaced. Check the pistons and cylinder walls since you're gonna be in that far anyway - and for piece of mind to ensure you don't need a piston somewhere in the mix. Then send the crank out to be checked and polished then get 'er all put back together.

I already ridiculed ya in that other thread so I'll let this invitation to do so slide...... :laugh3:
 
YELLAHEEP said:
Ditto to what Frank said. Believe it or not........ :D
Click to expand...
faint.gif
 
LOL. Frank, I ain't buyin at twice the price anyways... maybe 1/2;)

I know its the right thing to do, I just hate the idea of booting my better 1/2 out of the garage while I pull the bastage, get the parts machined, and get it reassembled. Anyone who knows me knows my wrenching pace is much more tortoise than hare -- hoping someone would sing me a song of rainbows and unicorns I guess....:confused1
 
Frank Z said:
Okay here goes...

Rainbows and unicorns
Elfs and bunnies
Cozy blankies and pillows
Won't mean squat if you don't get busy
and fix yer damn junk.


Feel better?
Click to expand...

dude, it doesn't even fookin rhyme -- worthless!
 
Frank Z said:
I'm a white guy...I don't do hippie-hoppie!!!!
Click to expand...

man, from you I was just hopin for some "mommas and poppas" or maybe "crosby stills and nash"... you know: puff the magic dragon lived by the sea...
 
Teardown is now complete, and we have some serious bearing issues. First off, cylinders 1-3 rod bearings (uppers) all showing wear (ignore the dunkin donuts stuff Troy, the box just happens to be in the picture... :dunce:):

PC260197.jpg


Cylinders 4-6 aren't any better:

PC260199.jpg


As I was tearing it down, I noted that the crank had nearly 1/16 inch of end-play... since the FSM apparently calls for a max of 6/1000, this is not good. Turns out the thrust bearing (between cylinders 2 and 3) was pretty damn hammered. Lower bearing:

PC260201.jpg


Upper Bearing:

PC260205.jpg


The crank may be beyond saving, you can almost see the 1/32+ groove in the thrust surface (very clear in person, the photo may not be so hot):

PC260200.jpg


The balance of the main bearings looked good with little noticeable wear, with the exception of the upper on #1:

PC260203.jpg


Anyways, it'll all head to the machine shop this week, and we'll see where we are. Hopefully the crank can be saved...:fuse:
 
Frank Z said:
Chris,
I hate to say it, but I'd wager Even Money on needing a new crankshaft.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm not taking that bet -- that thrust surface is seriously chewed... I guess we know where all the end-play came from...
 
Frank Z said:
So what did the boys at the shop say?
Click to expand...

I talked to Lynn - they're pretty busy this week, so I may not have any answers until after new years. He thought he might be able to build the crank back up, but it is borderline -- I'm hopefully picking up Mason's today or this weekend anyways, so if its rebuildable, I'll have an ebay listing, but I also have some insurance...
 
no parts, so not much work to do... but it will definitely run better with a new coat of paint!!

P1020006.jpg
 
To each their own...... blue = no bueno.

John Deer Green...... now THAT'd be a winner! :thumbup:

:D
 
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