Stroker Renewal?

xj-grin

NAXJA Member #1096
So, long story short: Coming back from Moab last month, I noticed a marked reduction in power in the XJ, like it would barely hold 60 up the passes in 4th gear. So, once home and hosed off, I brought her into the garage for some diagnostics, finger crossing, and general karma searching.

Specs: 1999 XJ, 4.6L stoker built with an accurate power kit, notorious Crane cam, solid lifters, stock valve train with heavier springs. 91k miles -- not bad for a stroker regardless.

Step 1 - compression check: 130lbs all around, except for 110 on #2, and 120 on #6. Even 130 is fairly low for a 9.5-1 stroker motor, although OK for one with this many miles. Time to pull the head.

Step 2 - head pulled, and FrankZ and I do an inspection and a couple of leak tests -- several cylinders, notably #2 and #6, but a little bit on all of them have leakage at the valves, indicating a valve job would be in order at a minimum, but unfortunately, that is not all...:thumbdn: The leakage in #2 is so severe that it is very likely it has not been providing combustion in any material way for a while (I had noticed a drop in performance before Utah, but figured my Butt-Dyno was just out of calibration)... Important to note that the cylinder walls in #6 are a bit glazed, and the carbon is cooked off the piston, indicating some steam-cleaning going on that shouldn't be.

FrankZ, being the gentleman and scholar that he is, brought over a fairly fresh head that he had lying around, if nothing else for comparative purposes, although that turns out not to be the case. Interesting that my head, an 0630 casting, is significantly different from Frank's, also a 0630 casting, although an earlier one. The water jacket outlets behind cylinder #6 on my head are roughly 1/4 inch from the combustion chamber, and are overlapping a little with the contact area for the head gasket:
PB080186.jpg


Franks are a full 1/8 inch further away from the combustion chamber:
PB080187.jpg


It appears that some coolant, for whatever reason, was sneaking by this weakpoint, and soaking #6 -- it may or may not have been firing, and certainly wasn't providing much in the way of oommph.

There also was a visible crack in the head at the center water jacket outlet, although it did not appear that any coolant had been making it into the #3 or 4 chambers just yet:
PB080191.jpg


The original valve job on this head was not particularly stellar, although given that it put out 90K, I guess I can't bitch too much. Notice how the valve in combustion chamber #3 is so fully seated that there is no margin within the combustion chamber at all, compared to chamber #4 below it:

PB080189.jpg

PB080190.jpg


SOOOOO, I have re-honed the cylinders, put the heavy valves onto my newly acquired head from Frank (muchas gracias, brother, send me a bill), and will start reassembly this week. Oh, and I found a long-suspected exhaust leak in the notorious header junction, so I'll be throwing an APN header on there while I'm at it. Lessons learned: (1)quality control in chrysler head castings leaves a bit to be desired; (2) the 4.0 (and variants) will run for a long time with a piss-poor head; (3) a 4.6 stroker will run tolerably well on 4-5 cylinders; and (4) Frank is da man.:peace:
 
Chris, If you need help with re-assembly this week then let me know. I dont have much planned for the week and would be interested in helping out and learning a bit about rebuilding an engine. with close to 200k on the TJ, i might be doing this soon...
 
My XJ had a 94 motor in it and #6 is the one that popped when I blew the head gasket. Is that the normal one to go?
I think it was Troy who mentioned that #6 is furthest from the water pump, and seems to wear more than the other five. At least that is what I'm pulling out my arse tonight.

I do know this '97 in my driveway has a coolant leak in #6.
 
I think it was Troy who mentioned that #6 is furthest from the water pump, and seems to wear more than the other five. At least that is what I'm pulling out my arse tonight.

I do know this '97 in my driveway has a coolant leak in #6.


Hold on there Sparky....... I didn't say that. Sheesh, any 'tard can figure out that #6 is farthest from the water pump...... they're at opposite ends of the block! :twak: :D

You're probably remembering me saying that the #1 cylinder is farthest from the oil pump and tends to be the one that has the rod bearings go bad. :thumbup:
 
hit me up when you put on the intake manifold... i learned alot tonight believe it or not. Although, what you told me about strokers only lasting 60k usually... i think i might just rebuild my 4.0 when it finally dies. who knows tho.
 
hit me up when you put on the intake manifold... i learned alot tonight believe it or not. Although, what you told me about strokers only lasting 60k usually... i think i might just rebuild my 4.0 when it finally dies. who knows tho.

Most of the stroker failures that you read about are cam failures, and most of those can be attributed to the now-defunct Crane cams. I got lucky, that the PO broke this engine in properly and used ZDDP sufficient oil, and so far, my Crane cam hasn't been an issue (I shouldn't have friggin said that...:shhh:). There's really no reason that a stroker shouldn't have the same longevity as a 4.0, just doesn't seem to have been the case for most folks, or maybe you just seem to hear about the bad ones on the interweb.

Update -- head on, APN somewhere in Iowa on a FEDEX truck, baby steps towards operational (knock on wood).:jester:
 
Buy mine.

if i only had the money frank. its been tough enough with karen not working, Dillon (my new baby boy), and the slow market for flooring/remodeling.

my 4.0 is still ticking... (literally, it sounds like a diesel right now). But when the time comes, it will be between a stoker, and rebuilding my 4.0.
 
BTW, anyone have expert/shadetree tips for getting a deepwell socket and a torque wrench on bolt #14 (rear drivers side)? Can't even get a wobble on it with the firewall pinch seam in the way. I have it torqued pretty damn close to 110 (by magic-butt-dyno-forearm-torque-wrench calculations) with an extended wrench, but can't confirm it with the socket/torque wrench due to the damn firewall pinch seam. :dunno:
 
Lower the crossmember and whatever is attached to it.
 
Cut half the threads off of the bolt above the nut portion.

Its not the threads that are the problem, it is the height between the bolt head surface and the pinch seam - just can't get the socket and wrench in there. I suppose I could pull the motor mounts and lower the crossmember, but man, that's a biatch...
 
Keep in mind that you only need a few threads so you can secure the ground wire from the firewall.


I'll give it a shot tonight, but I think I will have to remove basically all of the threads in order to get a standard on it, and the ground won't reach to the next head bolt.... we'll see.:dunno:
 
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