Stroker Just acting weird. Just want her to run right DAMNIT!

[NHxj4x4]

I hope you guys are bored, cause this is going to be VERY detailed. We'll start with the specs (everything is new unless I say it's old):

93 XJ
97 Block
01 Mani
62mm TB
62mm TB Spacer
24# Furd Injectors (Blue Tops)
93 Fuel Rail w/ stock regulator (old, cleaned really well)
93 Stock Pump (old)
4.6L Stroker
AW4
NP231
Ford 8.8
D30
4.10's
35's
Crane Cam
4.2L Crank
Pacesetter Headers
Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat
Flowmaster Delta 40
Custom 2.5in Full Exhaust
Stock 93 Disti and CamPS (old)
Accel Brown Top Cap
Accel Plugs gapped stock
Accel 8mm Wires
New Coil
New CPS
New Fuel Filter
New TPS
New MAP
New CTS
New ECU
New Starter
New OEM O2 Sensor

501 miles so far, only 92 Octane, 2 bottles of Lucas so far, 4 oil changes so far.

OK, now for the issues.

1. It takes FOREVER to start, loves to crank, then I let off, try again, try again, and finally, and randomly it will just turn right over like it should without all the cranking poo.

2. It's kinda lackadazical until 2K, then it picks right up until....

3. Once I hit around 3800, it stops, just flutters feels/ sounds like a car hitting redline, like the noise Gran Turismo makes when you forget to shift. This is the one that is REALLY pissing me off. Also, it won't shift when you get to this point, and this is ONLY when the throttle is half way in or so, like when passing and such. When you drive normally, it shifts like a dream, at the correct shift points for easy driving. It does this is all gears.

4. Gas Mileage is an atrocity, maybe 170mi to a full 16 Gallons.

5. When in "D" and at 55-60ish, it goes into 4th, but the RPM's are at 1100 or so, it's basically forcing to to drive in "3" unless on the highway without hills.

What have I done Already?

Re-did the timing 3 times, everytime it has been OK, it is set to OEM/ Stock settings, I have not cut the ears, nor do I really know what that entails. Brought it to my mechanic friend, and he said that he couldn't adjust the timing if the ears where still there. Maybe someone can explain this?

Pulled the cap, and plugs, I noticed some green cap on the leads in the cap, and also a tad on the plugs. Not sure what that is, but it seems odd since it is all new.

Adjusted the shift cable, checked all linkage at the trans, everything was fine. Checked the injectors for leaks, all fine.

Jeep dealer is useless, they actually told me not to waste my money with them.

That's actually it guys, I'm just not sure where to go from here, and what to check next. I've been trying to search, but I haven't really come across my senario to get the answers I need.

If you guys need more info, lay it on me, I really wanna get this thing running correctly.

Thanks!

Todd

 

[summitlt]

well, your getting 11MPG, even for a stroker that is really bad, seems like your running super rich, that would cause lackluster performance.

When you changed plugs were they wet? Adjusted TPS with th enew throttlebody?

Hook up the map sensor when you pulled it apart?

 

[rsalemi]

90% of the problems with 4.0 rebuilds - strokers or 4.0's - are due to incorrect distributor indexing - resulting in crossfiring (usually at 2000 RPM ).
This is a known problem caused by the teeth on the cam not being indexed the same as the original equipment..
There is a Jeep TSB procedure to fix this by cutting off the ear/s and lining up the rotor properly.
There may be info in the Files section of this website.
FIX THIS PROBLEM FIRST!!!!!
there may be other issues but this needs to be fixed first.

 

[Chancer]

Taken from autozone, on indexing the distributor:

ENGINE ROTATED

1: Rotate the engine until the No.1 piston is at TDC compression.

2: Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, in the distributor hole, rotate the oil pump gear so that the slot in the oil pump shaft is in the correct position (see illustration).

3: With the distributor cap removed, install the distributor so that the rotor is positioned correctly (see illustration). Insure that the distributor is fully seated against the cylinder block. If not, remove the distributor and perform the entire procedure again.

4: Tighten the hold-down bolt.

5: Install distributor cap and ignition wires. Insure that the wires are routed correctly before attempting to start engine.

 

[NHxj4x4]

90% of the problems with 4.0 rebuilds - strokers or 4.0's - are due to incorrect distributor indexing - resulting in crossfiring (usually at 2000 RPM ).
This is a known problem caused by the teeth on the cam not being indexed the same as the original equipment..
There is a Jeep TSB procedure to fix this by cutting off the ear/s and lining up the rotor properly.
There may be info in the Files section of this website.
FIX THIS PROBLEM FIRST!!!!!
there may be other issues but this needs to be fixed first.

That's what makes me mad about Jeep, there is a TSB you say, yet they wouldn't help me time it at all. I'm gonna get a new disti and do some ear cutting I guess. Now I'm not sure what ears where talking here? I've seen pics of new disti's, and they have ears right on the disti, mine does not have this. I have a u shaped tab that holds it is, and that is the part that screws into the block, however it is still very hard to rotate the disti. There is no fine adjustment that I can see, I have to dis-engage the disti from the cam, and try to line up to the next tooth. Those are the ears you guys are reffering too?

 

[user name]

Your sure the timing isn't 180 degrees out?

 

[NHxj4x4]

Your sure the timing isn't 180 degrees out?

Wouldn't run if it was dude. Like my post says, it run fairly well until 3800 rpms.

 

[old_man]

Here is a pix

 

[corbinafly]

Here is a pix

Where did you get that pic of the dist? It's wrong. The rotor is supposed to be just past the #1 terminal at TDC. Not before.

Kyung

 

[rsalemi]

The TSB says .020 past #1 - dist turns clockwise - pic is reversed!!!!

And the ears are under the U shaped tab - distributor needs to be removed to cut the ears.

 

[8Mud]

Just as a side note, you can cut one ear and notch the other. Makes going back to where you were much easier. If the timing doesn't help, I like the option of being able to return it to the stock location.
I'd take it for a run up the interstate, slide into a rest stop and pull a couple of center plugs. I'd try it at around 2000, 3000 and 3500 RPM's.
And try to figure out if it's lean or rich. Are you plugs white or soot covered. You get the best indication, when they are still warm.
Sure sounds like an O2 sensor issue (lean). Even if it's new, there could be Resistance in the wiring or something messing with the signal.
Then maybe do a vacuum test, just to see if it's anywhere near where it should be. *Steady needle*, above 14 inches at idle (minimum). Above 18 inches at 2000-2500 RPM (minimum). This might tell you if you have a cam timing problem.
Just a couple of ideas, that may help.

 

[user name]

NHxj4X4

We are on the same page now.

My question would be, how could you not know your timing? Didn't you turn the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, then set the timing pointer at whatever initial setting you were after, then drop the distributor in, with the rotor pointing at number one?

Next question, whats the stock fuel pressure setting? Don't many on here that use larger injectors also add a map adjuster or adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

Your symptoms also describe a clogged fuel filter/ faulty pump but you have alot to rule out before you get there I suppose.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Re-did the timing 3 times, everytime it has been OK, it is set to OEM/ Stock settings, I have not cut the ears

Therein lies the problem. If the distributor isn't properly indexed, the injector pulse timing is way off and you'll get the poor running that you described. The ignition timing is set by the engine computer and read from the CPS, so that is NOT affected by indexing the distributor.
Your distributor indexing is several degrees off and the procedure on my page tells you how to fix it:

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

Your distributor definitely isn't 180* off (the engine wouldn't run at all if it was) so you can leave out step 3. Since you have an aftermarket cam, you definitely need to cut off one of the ears of the indexing loop and rotate the distributor body until it is correctly indexed.
I also suggest you set the plug gap much wider than 0.035" so that the engine idles evenly and runs smoothly at low revs. I've found the optimum plug gap to be 0.065" (yes, I know that's big but believe me, it works!).
When you've finished, your engine will purr like a kitten and your Jeep will go like a scalded cat, so you'd better save a few beers for me 'cause I'm comin' to drink 'em.

 

[NHxj4x4]

HOLY SHAT!!!!

I bought a new disti, cut the ears and played with the timing for a while today. My frikkin god, I am amazed right now. I also gapped to .065.

WOW is all I can say, she starts 1st crank just like normal, and fast, whoa, fast as hell. I'm truly daunted right now. Thanks everyone for all your help, I finally feel like my stroker is alive and well.

Todd

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

HOLY SHAT!!!!

I bought a new disti, cut the ears and played with the timing for a while today. My frikkin god, I am amazed right now. I also gapped to .065.

WOW is all I can say, she starts 1st crank just like normal, and fast, whoa, fast as hell. I'm truly daunted right now. Thanks everyone for all your help, I finally feel like my stroker is alive and well.

Todd

Congrats on finally getting her in tip top shpe, but did you ever get that exhast header leak fixed?

 

[NHxj4x4]

Congrats on finally getting her in tip top shpe, but did you ever get that exhast header leak fixed?

Yes I did, I returned the headers that I had bought to Summit, and they sent me the version 2 pacesetters. They sealed up just fine, and everything sounds as it should. It's very nice now.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

Yes I did, I returned the headers that I had bought to Summit, and they sent me the version 2 pacesetters. They sealed up just fine, and everything sounds as it should. It's very nice now.

SWEET!

 

[Dr. Dyno]

HOLY SHAT!!!!

I bought a new disti, cut the ears and played with the timing for a while today. My frikkin god, I am amazed right now. I also gapped to .065.

WOW is all I can say, she starts 1st crank just like normal, and fast, whoa, fast as hell. I'm truly daunted right now. Thanks everyone for all your help, I finally feel like my stroker is alive and well.

Todd

D'ya have my beers ready?

 

[NHxj4x4]

D'ya have my beers ready?

Anytime man, can you ship beers to Saudi?

 

[Dr. Dyno]

I'm in the UAE now so it's not a problem.