Stereo gurus - when do I need a capacitor?

[Capt. Nemo]

I'm installing two 12" subs- each rated at 800 watts max (200 watts RMS). I just bought a 1000 watt 2 channel amp to power these subs. I'm new to this stereo stuff, and was wondering if I need a capacitor. If I do, what power cap should I buy? 1 farad? 1.5 farads? What's a farad anyway? Thanks.
Eric

 

[woody431]

I have 900 watts going to one 12 and I have a 1 farad cap on mine. They help quite a bit IMO. 1 Farad=1000 watts of power I believe. Im sure it wouldn't hurt to buy a cap, so Id go ahead and put one on. I have a cheap lightning audio one and it works just fine..I think it was around 80 bucks.

 

[jeepguy97]

Someone can figure out the math but a one farad capacitorconnected to a one volt source will store 6.28X10to the 18th electrons.

I personally don't think you will need one.

 

[Capt. Nemo]

I guess I'll just run the set-up without it, and if I need it, I'll put it in later. Any other suggestions?

 

[woody431]

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=006234

Check this link out. Try these before you upgrade your alternator or anything like that if you havent already.

 

[Gridikal]

So you got an amp that is 250X 2 RMS, 500x 2 peak, hence 1000watt. Well you deffinatly aren't gonna see that much from power from it- what brand name amp is it by the way? Most specs are givin related to 14.4V input to the amp- most stock vehicles will see 12- 12.4 V when not running and 13.2 - 13.7 when running. As described in the link above, upgrading the cables that deal with anything related to the charging system will help. I did this and saw a jump from 13.5 to 14.2 at normal driving speeds (helps to have a digetal gauge http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/482928 ). Also the operating temp of the amp comes into play- the longer it runs, the hotter it gets and the less power it can make- adding a capacitior wont hurt, if your funds allow it, go for it. The cap will stabilize the electrical system and dampen voltage spikes that occur when turning on other components in the jeep- as related to the amp. With a small amp like that, you probley wont be able to tell a difference unless you have a lot of accessories on like driving lights, A/c or things like that. Aight thers my .02 ughh well more like .05 ---

 

[BoostyKid]

i wouldnt run one but its only going to make ur system better if you do. i was running an all autiobahn setup with 1200 watts 2 12's in a custom ported box and i ran a dig. cap it just made it so it ran from the cap instead of the battery. its all up 2 u it wont hurt anything if u dont.

 

[Capt. Nemo]

Here's the amp I bought. Bought it off of ebay for $75 (with shipping just under $100)
http://www.shopping.com/xPF-Blitz_B...l_1000_Watt_Bridgeable_MOSFET_Power_Amplifier
Dig the blue neon tubes. Yo, yo - bling, bling
I don't even know why I'm going to all this trouble since I'm not into the typical type of music that hits the heavy bass notes. I guess it's because I got the subs brand new (sony xplod) for $20 a piece. Thanks for all the input so far. The electrical wiring advice sounds like a great idea, and I'm sure it will help with a lot more than just the stereo.

 

[XJ_ranger]

a capacitor "charges" up and spreads the load on your electrical system more evenly than your amp will. your amp pulls power as it needs it, the cap will pull power slowly. if you have one, power from teh electrical system will be pulled at a constant rate into the cap, then when the amp needs it, it will pull from the cap, not the system.


Basicaly the cap acts as a regulator, similar to the way a regulator works on an air system. the tank (electrical system) has a certain preasure, the regulator drops that down (cap) and the air gun (amp/sub) that uses power intermitantly pulles from past the regulator, and the regulator allows the air past it to have the same preasure as before, even though some had been pulled out when shooting the nail... i hope this makes sense to anyone...

 

[Capt. Nemo]

a capacitor "charges" up and spreads the load on your electrical system more evenly than your amp will. your amp pulls power as it needs it, the cap will pull power slowly. if you have one, power from teh electrical system will be pulled at a constant rate into the cap, then when the amp needs it, it will pull from the cap, not the system.


Basicaly the cap acts as a regulator, similar to the way a regulator works on an air system. the tank (electrical system) has a certain preasure, the regulator drops that down (cap) and the air gun (amp/sub) that uses power intermitantly pulles from past the regulator, and the regulator allows the air past it to have the same preasure as before, even though some had been pulled out when shooting the nail... i hope this makes sense to anyone...

Makes sense. I think I'm done spending money on this whole thing for right now. I just built a box for the subs and amp, and now I've got to get the wiring. After the wiring, my money will go towards the more function side of my rig. A capacitor can wait for now. I don't think I'll come close to using the power that the system can pump out, unless the kids at church try to out-do me :guitar: