Steering Slack/Slop

[ColoradoRaptor]

Might want to read this thread about RR steering.
Thats strange, you didnt speak up then??
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=929355

Interesting read.....didn't speak up because I missed it some how. Oh well, for the money it is pretty damn good. I would run it but I want OTK, so JCR is where I am at!

 

[fubar XJ]

Well....... I am sorry that this thread has turned into an argument over whose weiner is bigger. :laugh: LOL!

I was able to get under the XJ today while someone was turning the wheel back and forth. The tie rods and drag link looked as though they where operating fine. Did not see any slack at any of those points. I kept looking as the steering kept turning back and forth and duh..... I looked past the steering linkage that I was so focused on to see that the track bar was loose where it attached to the axle. It was shifting a little as the steering moved back and forth. I put a lock washer behind the nut, tightened it down, and drove it around. Steering felt much tighter!

It sucks being stupid. :banghead:

That area has given many of us problems. You will likely need to address a more permanent fix there eventually, one involving match-drilling the lower TB bracket hole in a piece of 3/16 steel and welding it over the top of the bracket. The factory hole in that thin crap wallows out with big tires and off-road use. It's usually something simple in a case like yours, just takes some deliberate searching to find the cause.

 

[Mikey]

Thanks Fubar, you know of a lower bracket upgrade or is welding in more steel the only fix? If there is not an upgrade bracket, I may just try to fab my own beefier lower bracket, cut off the other one and weld the new one on the axle.

 

[fubar XJ]

Thanks Fubar, you know of a lower bracket upgrade or is welding in more steel the only fix? If there is not an upgrade bracket, I may just try to fab my own beefier lower bracket, cut off the other one and weld the new one on the axle.

I just made mine with a flat piece of steel, maybe 1.5" x 2.5" x 3/16. There is room for a 3/16 overlay of flat steel match-drilled to the factory hole, you just weld it on at the edges and it's all good. If you have a larger diameter aftermarket tie rod, you'll ride the bolt head if you go any thicker on the bracket doubler. At least I did, so I adjusted the steering stops a bit and it's good to go now. I was rubbing my longarms at full lock anyhow, so two birds with one stone.

 

[Mikey]

Overlaying in some steel is probably the way to go. I usually think over board and just want to fab something better. LOL!