So many choices, so little cash...

yes you can run 33's with a 3", just needs some fender trimming. bump stops dont hurt. i got by just fine without. ive seen them cleared stock, slightly more trimming. id say go for the 33's and enjoy the low center of gravity, and the advantages of larger tires when you are offroad.... and i was once like you... just a little lift and DD... couple years later im 3/4 ton on 37's....
 
yes you can run 33's with a 3", just needs some fender trimming. bump stops dont hurt. i got by just fine without. ive seen them cleared stock, slightly more trimming. id say go for the 33's and enjoy the low center of gravity, and the advantages of larger tires when you are offroad.... and i was once like you... just a little lift and DD... couple years later im 3/4 ton on 37's....

Pardon my asking, but what the f*** is DD? :o
 
Pardon my asking, but what the f*** is DD? :o

DD is short for daily driver

What it sounds like you are looking for and best for you is (In my opinion) a 91-95 cherokee. Look for a 4.0 auto preferably without ABS because it will be *more likely* to have the better rear axle(Chrysler 8.25). Although in those years it will not be the desired 8.25 (the "good" 8.25 started in late 97 in XJs) so it is not something that should make or break a deal for you, as you'll swap it out with something or modify it to your liking. Dont worry too much about the transfer case, as for me I would like to have the full time 4wd option(NP242) in a winter daily driver but the more common case (NP231) does not offer it, but you can do more to change that case around for offroad performance.

My suggestion for you is to find a clean cherokee newer than 91 so it has the High Output 4.0 with an automatic. If your budget is only $3000 start to finish, buy a middle mileage, which is now around 150k, and do every basic maintenance you can to it. Remember, the NEWEST cherokee you can buy is still 13 years old. Change every fluid it has, transfer case, differentials, tranmision, engine oil, coolant, ect. Change the battery, change or grease the u joints and ball joints while you're under there before they fail and keep you from getting to work or school.

Then if you still have some jingle in your pocket spend some time in the junkyards. Pull a heavier duty steering out of a grand cherokee with a V8 engine, and if yours doesnt already, get a front skid plate, transfer skid, and gas tank skid out of a similar year cherokee that still has. You'll be amazed at what a little stock XJ can do before you dump thousands into it.

After youre comfortable and you know your XJ is reliable, pick up a quality 3.5" lift. Buy on the higher end so you dont regret buying crappy parts and end up swapping them out little by little and pay twice as much over time to get the same damn thing you shouldve the first time. A rubicon express 3.5" kit and some 33x10.5 All terrains for example, is a awesome upgrade for a weekend warrior to get you to the nice camping spots, secluded fishing holes and then back to work monday morning and not rattle your teeth out on the frost heaves.

They are all pretty much the same. In 96 they kept the old body styling, changed the onboard diagnostics, and changed some other odd ball things. Then in 97 they changed the styling and tweaked the OBD again. So 96 and 97 had some year specific parts, but not too much to be a major concern.
 
DD is short for daily driver

What it sounds like you are looking for and best for you is (In my opinion) a 91-95 cherokee. Look for a 4.0 auto preferably without ABS because it will be *more likely* to have the better rear axle(Chrysler 8.25). Although in those years it will not be the desired 8.25 (the "good" 8.25 started in late 97 in XJs) so it is not something that should make or break a deal for you, as you'll swap it out with something or modify it to your liking. Dont worry too much about the transfer case, as for me I would like to have the full time 4wd option(NP242) in a winter daily driver but the more common case (NP231) does not offer it, but you can do more to change that case around for offroad performance.

My suggestion for you is to find a clean cherokee newer than 91 so it has the High Output 4.0 with an automatic. If your budget is only $3000 start to finish, buy a middle mileage, which is now around 150k, and do every basic maintenance you can to it. Remember, the NEWEST cherokee you can buy is still 13 years old. Change every fluid it has, transfer case, differentials, tranmision, engine oil, coolant, ect. Change the battery, change or grease the u joints and ball joints while you're under there before they fail and keep you from getting to work or school.

Then if you still have some jingle in your pocket spend some time in the junkyards. Pull a heavier duty steering out of a grand cherokee with a V8 engine, and if yours doesnt already, get a front skid plate, transfer skid, and gas tank skid out of a similar year cherokee that still has. You'll be amazed at what a little stock XJ can do before you dump thousands into it.

After youre comfortable and you know your XJ is reliable, pick up a quality 3.5" lift. Buy on the higher end so you dont regret buying crappy parts and end up swapping them out little by little and pay twice as much over time to get the same damn thing you shouldve the first time. A rubicon express 3.5" kit and some 33x10.5 All terrains for example, is a awesome upgrade for a weekend warrior to get you to the nice camping spots, secluded fishing holes and then back to work monday morning and not rattle your teeth out on the frost heaves.

They are all pretty much the same. In 96 they kept the old body styling, changed the onboard diagnostics, and changed some other odd ball things. Then in 97 they changed the styling and tweaked the OBD again. So 96 and 97 had some year specific parts, but not too much to be a major concern.

Thanks a ton for all of the information! A couple of questions:

How will the aforementioned set up (3.5" lift and 33's) effect the gas mileage?

What do you know about the quality and value of Rusty's Offroad?

Based on the previous question, what are the pros and cons of these two? Do I really need the extra parts that come in the advanced kit (example 2)? I am assuming that all new spring packs is a better (easier install and less chance to screw up) than an 'add-a-leaf,' correct?

Example 1: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-s...its/rustys-xj-cherokee-3-spring-pack-kit.html

Example 2: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-s...t-kits/rustys-xj-cherokee-3-advanced-kit.html
 
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Thanks a ton for all of the information! A couple of questions:

How will the aforementioned set up (3.5" lift and 33's) effect the gas mileage?

What do you know about the quality and value of Rusty's Offroad? (ex: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-s...its/rustys-xj-cherokee-3-spring-pack-kit.html)

It will effect it a lot. Youre taking a rolling shoe box and raising it up in the air creating more wind resistance. No way around that. And then the tires will be taller, wider, and heavier. All decrease gas milage. with 33's youre right on the margin of needing to regear the axles. With either 4.56 or 4.88. You can get away with 4.10's but I wouldnt personally unless you got a pair of axles geared to that for short money.

Rusty's offroad made my first lift. I wouldnt buy another from him. The springs lasted but none of the bushings or shocks did and it rode like a brick.
 
It will effect it a lot. Youre taking a rolling shoe box and raising it up in the air creating more wind resistance. No way around that. And then the tires will be taller, wider, and heavier. All decrease gas milage. with 33's youre right on the margin of needing to regear the axles. With either 4.56 or 4.88. You can get away with 4.10's but I wouldnt personally unless you got a pair of axles geared to that for short money.

Rusty's offroad made my first lift. I wouldnt buy another from him. The springs lasted but none of the bushings or shocks did and it rode like a brick.

Ok, where else would you recommend to look and for what brands?
 
I have rustys coils that have sagged quite a bit. Look at rubicon express, ive had good luck with their stuff in the past.

I'm between the Rubicon Express Economy Kit (2" lift, $240 from Summit and clears 30's) and the Rubicon Express Super Ride Short Arm (3.5" lift, $585 from Summit and clears 31's)

I'm leaning more towards the latter, I think it will give me the prerunner - esque stance that I'm looking for.
 
I'm between the Rubicon Express Economy Kit (2" lift, $240 from Summit and clears 30's) and the Rubicon Express Super Ride Short Arm (3.5" lift, $585 from Summit and clears 31's)

I'm leaning more towards the latter, I think it will give me the prerunner - esque stance that I'm looking for.

I agree with some earlier posts...I've run Rubicon Express parts in some of my previous XJ's and they are solid, quality-wise. The replacement leaf springs are stiff at first, and will appear to give you more lift than you were looking for, but they settle quickly and ride well, even better if you have some weight in the rear (tools, spares, gear, fullsize spare tire off the back)...good shocks are also key when it comes to ride...if you go Rubicon, i strongly advise using their monotube shocks versus the cheaper twintubes.
 
Re: Re: So many choices, so little cash...

I agree with some earlier posts...I've run Rubicon Express parts in some of my previous XJ's and they are solid, quality-wise. The replacement leaf springs are stiff at first, and will appear to give you more lift than you were looking for, but they settle quickly and ride well, even better if you have some weight in the rear (tools, spares, gear, fullsize spare tire off the back)...good shocks are also key when it comes to ride...if you go Rubicon, i strongly advise using their monotube shocks versus the cheaper twintubes.

Thanks! Love the user name, by the way
 
What about axles? Could I get away with stocks or will the UPS guy be dropping off some of those pretty boxes that say DANA on the side? :lickout:

short answer no. I beat the piss out of my stock axles locked on 33's and only ever broke a few napa greaseable u-joints. I just dont use greasable anymore since they have a hollow.
 
Re: Re: So many choices, so little cash...

short answer no. I beat the piss out of my stock axles locked on 33's and only ever broke a few napa greaseable u-joints. I just dont use greasable anymore since they have a hollow.

Can you explain what napa greasable is? Meaning they can be taken care of with grease from napa auto parts? And what do you man by the have a hollow?
 
Can you explain what napa greasable is? Meaning they can be taken care of with grease from napa auto parts? And what do you man by the have a hollow?

you can buy serviceable or non serviceable u-joints, the ones with the grease fitting look like this inside......& they snap like twigs
 
greasable U-joints = the spider is gun drilled and has a zerk fitting in it so you can pump more grease into the caps with a grease gun just like a TRE or ball joint.

Theoretically they shouldn't be significantly weaker than undrilled spiders, but theory and practice are often opposed to each other... have heard before several times that people have had failures w/ greasable U-joints that have gone away after switching to non-greasable
 
Lol I'm going to go get it Saturday. But as a general rule of thumb everything I do sucks. For example I use greaseable joints in mine. And have broken a few.
 
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