Slip Yoke Eliminator and Axle swap - options and answers

The_Big_E

The_Big_E

NAXJA Forum User
Location
I'm like Horse Dookey: I'm all over
Good Evening,

KA-BOOM is what started this off. I lost the Tail Cone off my T-Case Saturday as it cracked around all 3 mounting bolts, and it sheared off 3 of the 4 strap bolts on the Pinion Yoke. The driveshaft is still looking good, minus 2x brand new U-Joints that just went through hell.

I'm looking at my repair / upgrade options, and keeping in mind that a Slip Yoke Eliminator is in my immediate future, as is a new driveshaft, I was thinking this is the perfect time to figure out an axle swap.

Currently I have the little D35 with a non-functioning Trac Loc rear end. I also have an XJ / D44 in the bed of my pickup, however I'm now debating the merits of scooping up a Ford 8.8 with disc brakes.

I'm looking for ideas and/or sources for the SYE. I want Quality first, price second. I do not want to be "That Guy" out on the trail, or side of the road. I want a strong rig that I'm not afraid to get a little aggressive with if need be. I hear the Hack-n-Tap SYE's are weak, so I'll probably stay away from one of those. I'm totally comfortable with splitting the T-Case open if need be. (I used to wrench on 2 and 4 stroke engines for ATV's and PWC's) I see a variety of manufacturers offering SYE kits... is there one to look at, or one to stay away from? Opinions are greatly appreciated, as are PM's from forum vendors.

I have axle options. If I need a driveshaft built, now is the time to customize it:

D35: I have a locker and Alloy Shafts sitting in the garage. I could fix up the current axle and go the budget route for now. (Hummm now that this is all typed out, this route sounds better for the short term)

D44: Already have it. Open diff. Drum Brakes. Pro's - strong. Cons - needs a total re-do. Bearings, seals etc. And a locker. And Brakes. Discs would be nice. Cha-Ching.

Ford 8.8: Yeah, I have a small clue about this but need more info. I have seen swap kits with spring mounts and other weld-on components to make the 8.8 a bolt-in deal. I've thought about selling the 35 and 44 to soften the blow of an 8.8

So yeah, I'd like to amass the parts fairly quickly and get my heep back on the trail.

I prefer to keep my money local if possible, so, vendors if you have something please shoot me a PM.

Gad I hope this makes sense... I'm running on nowhere enough sleep!

Thanks,
 
As for the sye I would do a advanced adapters. Can be had for less then 200 bucks if you do a bit of shoping. Tomwoods for the driveline.

The axle. I would use the d35 with the upgraded parts for now(depending on tire size) and sell it after you put the grars and locker in the d44. The 44 will be as strong or stronger as a 8.8. For disk breaks you can use crown vic or some grand cherokees had d44 rear with disks.

If your tcase housing is cracked then I would look at gettin a seccond tcase. I hear torx has a tera4low for sale with a sye already
 
AA SYE and Tom Wood's driveline, as suggested. $500 for the whole package. The driveline Tom will build you will have enough stroke in the slip yoke to compensate for the 1" or so difference in pinion length from the D35/D44/8.8, so it's really a non-issue. We've done many swaps from D35 to 8.8 and never had to alter DL length, and the D44 pinion is less than an inch longer.
 
Buy dusting axles.. locked and geared ready to go.

This message sent from my phone.. which contains glue... no tape... yet..
 
:wierd:

Dusting Axles???

Vanna, can I buy a clue please???
 
You guys are so funny..

I meant dustins axles, Torx.

This message sent from my phone.. which contains glue... no tape... yet..
 
muddypunk said:
What about Drivelines northwest for the drive shaft
Click to expand...

XJOFFROAD said:
Dont. They are extremely expensive. Buy from tom woods
Click to expand...

And not to mention they're dumb as a box of rocks... A few years ago I went to them and requested a high angle cv stlye shaft for my dodge. Thier response was "We don't believe in those high angle cv joints" So I took my business to highangledriveline.com and have never went back for anything.
 
I would use AA or PORK for the SYE (It has been a long time since I did my research so not sure if there is still that much of a difference).

Personally I would use a stock front DS for the rear. MUCH cheaper than any other option and pick up a second so you have a spare for either end.

I don't believe your axle changes are merited due to the TCase changes at the moment so leave what you have in there at the moment (not for long though!).

I would build the D44 with your choice of locker new bearings and seals and gears and install it. The drum breaks are much better than those on the D35 and I wouldn't switch to a 8.8 over the D44 for the disks. It would be a different story if you didn't alreay have the D44.

Michael
 
Do you have a link to the PORK SYE? I did a google search and couldn't locate a source.

The driveshaft info is also good to hear. I never thought about picking up 2 driveshafts, 1 as a spare that covers both front and rear? ha - that sounds like a great solution to me! I will just rebuild them both and be done with it.

Are there differences between model years, or can I just grab up a few? (Looks like I'm going to get familiar with the local pull-a-part in Lynnwood)

Here comes the learning curve again! :eek:

Thanks for the ideas!

2xtreme said:
I would use AA or PORK for the SYE (It has been a long time since I did my research so not sure if there is still that much of a difference).

Personally I would use a stock front DS for the rear. MUCH cheaper than any other option and pick up a second so you have a spare for either end.

I don't believe your axle changes are merited due to the TCase changes at the moment so leave what you have in there at the moment (not for long though!).

I would build the D44 with your choice of locker new bearings and seals and gears and install it. The drum breaks are much better than those on the D35 and I wouldn't switch to a 8.8 over the D44 for the disks. It would be a different story if you didn't alreay have the D44.

Michael
Click to expand...
 
The_Big_E said:
Do you have a link to the PORK SYE? I did a google search and couldn't locate a source.

The driveshaft info is also good to hear. I never thought about picking up 2 driveshafts, 1 as a spare that covers both front and rear? ha - that sounds like a great solution to me! I will just rebuild them both and be done with it.

Are there differences between model years, or can I just grab up a few? (Looks like I'm going to get familiar with the local pull-a-part in Lynnwood)

Here comes the learning curve again! :eek:

Thanks for the ideas!
Click to expand...


You want a Front Drive Shaft out of an Automatic. Thats what I use also. They are the same over the range of years. The only reason for the automatic is that the Auto Trans is longer which makes for a longer front shaft.

I went with an AA SYE, it was easy to install.. and I had never cracked a T case before at the time. Just have a good pair of Snap Ring pliers, and a rather large pair.
 
The_Big_E said:
Do you have a link to the PORK SYE? I did a google search and couldn't locate a source.

The driveshaft info is also good to hear. I never thought about picking up 2 driveshafts, 1 as a spare that covers both front and rear? ha - that sounds like a great solution to me! I will just rebuild them both and be done with it.

Are there differences between model years, or can I just grab up a few? (Looks like I'm going to get familiar with the local pull-a-part in Lynnwood)

Here comes the learning curve again! :eek:

Thanks for the ideas!
Click to expand...


Sorry, That should read PORC (Performanceoffroadcenter.com) I bought mine from them years ago, they came very well recomended and I had perfect service by them (again, this was many years ago) at the time they were significantly less money than AA.

Yes, the driveline should be from an Automatic, I don't believe it makes anydifference what TC is behind it, but it should be a 4.0 AT. Just measure yours and make sure that your donor (commonly not still installed in the Jeep) is the correct length extended/compressed. I really prefer the common parts and they hold up well. Anything to save a few dollars and recycle old parts.

Michael
 
2xtreme said:
Sorry, That should read PORC (Performanceoffroadcenter.com) I bought mine from them years ago, they came very well recomended and I had perfect service by them (again, this was many years ago) at the time they were significantly less money than AA.

Yes, the driveline should be from an Automatic, I don't believe it makes anydifference what TC is behind it, but it should be a 4.0 AT. Just measure yours and make sure that your donor (commonly not still installed in the Jeep) is the correct length extended/compressed. I really prefer the common parts and they hold up well. Anything to save a few dollars and recycle old parts.

Michael
Click to expand...

probably year and a half ago I was screwed by them. Took 8 months for a ring and pinion. Cancelled my order which to 4 months to get my $$ back. They were kicked off as a vendor on pirate for terrible business practices. must has bought from them before this all happened.
 
XJOFFROAD said:
probably year and a half ago I was screwed by them. Took 8 months for a ring and pinion. Cancelled my order which to 4 months to get my $$ back. They were kicked off as a vendor on pirate for terrible business practices. must has bought from them before this all happened.
Click to expand...

Probably about 6 years ago.

Michael
 
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