Should we be carrying a fire extinguisher?

I've always taken fire extremely serious and have actually practiced getting out of my 5 car with my eyes closed. The link is great info but I slightly disagree with a fire extinguisher being within reach...sorta:

The very first thing you should do is get out, PERIOD. You rarely have access to the source of the fire from your seat. Sure the flames might be showing or hitting you, but you aren't going to put it out. This happened on Satruday to the GKN 1400 truck (a truck I was recently in, and though...damn it would be hard to get out of this thing). Once out, then grab an extinguisher and fight the fire or protect other humans. This is why desert racers are required to have one on the cage outside the car. That way anyone walking up to the fire can help.

The last thing you want is false security. To waste time grabbing an extinguisher, only to let the fire grow, and then trying to get out. What if you panic now and can't get the door open or your belt off? Now you have an empty extinguisher and can't get out because the smoke just got 10 times worse. Yes this is the worst case senario but that's what we should plan for if possible.

Again I carry two on every off-road car/Jeep I have. One on the inside, one on the outside. It's already saved my Jeep once :) If I only had one, I'd have it on the outside. If that isn't possible, then yes, as close to the driver's hand as possible.

Now I also buy commercial units that are all aluminum. No plastic or cheap parts that the sun can ruin. I even have them inspected every few years (if they get out of date they can't be re-filled, but I think the date is like 10 years). I think my 2.5 pound one was $50. More than the cheap costco/target home extinguishers but it's lasted 4 years on a class 5 car and just over 2 on a DD Jeep.
 
When it's under your legs you can't really get to it while you're in the car anyway. Get out, turn around, grab it and fight fire.

I doubt this mounting setup would work for a 5lbs extinguisher too, the little 2.5lbs one fills the space completely.
 
Maybe a fireman will chime in and tell me I'm nuts but I also carry a set of bolt cutters, aka: master key. 1st step in an electrical fire is remove the source of ignition. Pop the hood and disconnect or cut the negative cable to the battery.
I had an F250 grenade a transfer case at 75mph on I80. It tore out a lot of everything underneath and the exposed wiring ignited the transmission fluid. By the time I got out of the truck the interior carpet was involved. I managed to get expensive personal gear out and exhausted a 5lb extinguisher in no time. Bare wires continued to spark and re-ignite fluids under the truck. By the time the fire trucks showed up it was too late and the truck was totaled.
 


When I clicked on your link, I had this show up...

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When I clicked on your link, I had this show up...

Sardog1, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.
Please read Introducing NAXJA Forum Supporters & Changes to Registered Guests

It looks like someone removed the link. It was in the modified section and now it's gone. :(
 
How about a thread with pics of extinguishers mounted?

Like this one?
http://naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=43

Excuse me for disagreeing with NOTINSUV.
Ignition is not one of the components of fire, it is a result of all 3 being present in the correct proportion. Race cars have a kill switch in the back to prevent electrical ignition before the fire. Once the car is on fire, it's too late to prevent ignition, so you have to worry about the people, then the property..

Fire is simple guys, remove one of the 3 components (Fuel, Heat, Oxygen) and you don't have fire.

Your average ABC Extinguisher does this nicely. It will work on wood, liquids, and fires caused by electronic ignition and it does so by removing one (or more) of the 3 components of the fire. It will not work on fires that are self contained, like a flammable metal fire, but we don't see very many of those in an XJ.

* Should you carry one? Yes.

* Should you get training on how to use it properly? Yes. Read up on P.A.S.S. and preferably get the opportunity to use one in a controlled practice setting.

* Should the extinguisher be within reach of the driver? Yes.
Why? Because even if you have to step out of the vehicle to get it, the extinguisher is able to be deployed more rapidly than if it was in the back under the groceries. Remember, it may not be your arse you are saving, but someone else's. As with any 1st response, time saved is the answer.

My thoughts on this entire subject can be summed up nicely. If you can prevent a fire (though better engineering, careful planning, fore thought, maintenance, or whatever) that is worth a whole store of fire extinguishers.

-Ron
 
DSC_0042.jpg
 
Where does one get a good 2- 5 lb fire extinguisher for those of us who are not racing?

Looks like a lot of the larger speed shops sell them, but is there any better options? Home Depot and Ace Hardware carry them, but I would think those are better suited for under the sink.

I would also question how they last in an offroad setting.

Poly Performance 5 lb--$95:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/H3R-MaxOut-Fire-Extinguisher-1-lb-2.5-lb-5-lb-p-484.html
 
I've put out fires on 3 vehicles belonging to other people. Cheap insurance, I carry an ABC-rated model in all my vehicles.

Remember that the retardant powder will settle and become compacted through the vibration of operating your vehicle. If you need to put out a fire and the powder is compacted, the extinguisher will will loose 50-75% of it effectiveness.

With the changing of every season, I pull out the extinguisher, invert it and while holding it firmly in one hand, squarely tap the bottom of the extinguisher several times with a rubber mallet, or the palm of your hand. This will fluff the powder and allow it to actually work when you need it. Don't get too carried away here, pounding on a pressurized container with a hammer might have negative health benefits........ http://www.fire-extinguisher101.com/careandmaintenance.html
 
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When we had extinguisher training at work, the trainer told us to "flip" the extinguisher once a month if mounted in a building, every two weeks if mounted in a vehicle. If you slowly tip your extinguisher end for end, you can feel the powder sliding back and forth.

He also said to buy extinguishers with metal valves. It seems the local FD will get calls for extinguishers with plastic valves, that get loose in a vehicle, breaking the valve off. :eek:
 
is it bad that my first thought was "its less work to just flip the vehicle?"
 
WB9YZU

Fair enough but if you eliminate the positive short to ground and arcing your fire will stay out. If you still have a bare wire sparking it can easily re-ignite.
 
pfft. we dont need an excuse for richard to roll.. just 'turn left' gets it done ;)
 
Truck stop/trucker supply is where I got my extinguishers. They tend to be the cheapest.
 
is it bad that my first thought was "its less work to just flip the vehicle?"
Mmmmmm, maybe not. Just remember to flip every two weeks. :)
 
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