Shock question for the jeepspeed guys...

So I decided on some Fox 2.0s resi 12 inch travel shocks F/R. I am not decided on doing a stem top or eye top on the front shock though.

I am thinking the stem top for simplicity and it will allow me to bolt the shock in without a upper adapter that will make me lose some up-travel.

-Alex
 
Ba-Riedo said:
So I decided on some Fox 2.0s resi 12 inch travel shocks F/R. I am not decided on doing a stem top or eye top on the front shock though.

I am thinking the stem top for simplicity and it will allow me to bolt the shock in without a upper adapter that will make me lose some up-travel.

-Alex
Click to expand...

A 12" shock in the front will cause you to lose up-travel anyway unless you change the bottom mount. The 12" stroke shocks have a 3" longer body than the 10" so you lose 3" of uptravel.
 
ktm racer 419 said:
-sigh-

i have had those in there for 3 years and they are as straight as the day they were put in.

and they have been landed on HARD. and when i say hard, i mean airbag poppin in yo face hard.
Click to expand...

how about hitting that hard 3-400 times in a 12 hour period?

I don't think he's knocking your design persay, it's just that many jeepspeeders have tried that setup, and it has failed. with no bracing from the back side I dont care how thick you make it, it will bend/fatigue/break.

edit: yikes old thread :doh:


:gee:
 
it all boils down to what you want to do - go fast and eat up the big stuff, go slow and handle really well and keep the tires planted on the rocks, or somewhere inbetween?
 
Somewhere in between.

Honestly my jeep sees 'go fast' stuff a few times a year, most of that being logging roads trying to do 40-60 depending on the area and terrain. Then KOH in february seems to be something I will be doing for quite some time now.

I do alot of trail riding, 2 weekends a month at least, sometimes every weekend. Most of those trails are rocks, tight tree trails, sloppy hill climbs etc. I want a shock that can do everything. Am I asking too much?

-Alex
 
Oh and my suspension and everything has changed substantially since I started this thread.

Front:
RE 4.5 inch coils and a .75 inch puck
Custom 3 link using aluminum BUNK links, w/ Ballistic fab joints on the lowers and 7/8 inch heims on the upper
Currie anti-rock bar
Extended upper and lower bumpstops
All of this on a narrowed and bling'd HP44

Rear:
BOR 4 inch flex-e packs
2 inch shackle
HD shackle drop brackets
DPG spring plates and bumpstops, and upper longer bumps as well

-Alex
 
how about a seperate set of shocks for when you go to KOH? :D

going fast makes heat, heat kills shocks that aren't set up for it. Also, (im no expert here though) I don't think you can have the best of both worlds without going to adjustable bypass shocks. soft enough to handle well on the rocks will have you bouncing all over the place when you start going fast in the rollers out at JV. I don't have a lot of money into my shocks but they sure eat up the whoops out there nicely. I'm running 2.5" body kings with a pretty stiff valving. no fun on the street when i hit a bump in the road, but once they get in the dirt and start actually using some travel and heat up enough to get the oil moving well, i realize they are worth every dollar i spent on em.

good luck! I still would suggest a separate set of shocks to swap in, might still be cheaper than bypasses especially if you are only running them once a year out at KOH - you would then be able to go with a cheaper shock like FOA's and have the downtime to rebuild them if something were to happen out there.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
Also, (im no expert here though) I don't think you can have the best of both worlds without going to adjustable bypass shocks. soft enough to handle well on the rocks will have you bouncing all over the place when you start going fast in the rollers out at JV.
Click to expand...

Trail rigs/crawler rigs typically have a lot more rebound valving. This gives a very predictable response when you get a tire up on a rock - it kind of 'sticks' to it instead of bouncing back.

Going fast needs the opposite effect...the suspension needs to take a hit and drop back out quickly to be ready for the next bump. Too much rebound valving over a series of big hits and your suspension packs up, you lose ride height, and go for a pretty crappy ride. For guys that are really seriously doing the KOH stuff they can't drop enough rebound valving out of the shocks because the unsprung weight is huge compared to a real desert car.

For a multi-purpose rig I'd look at the % of trail riding vs. go fast that you want to do, and start your valving choices based on that. On my FOA coilovers in the front I've got them at "medium-light" rebound right now which is about midrange...it works fine for our races out here where I don't run into a long stretch of consecutive whoops, rythym sections, etc. Out at JV it was good for going as fast as the motor could go over the ~1' sections; trying to go much bigger than that became a handful pretty quickly, but a lot of that was also due to the rear not even close to being set up right.

Not the best video but an example of how it was working over some smaller stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-_mJ0Vrhag
 
GrimmJeeper said:
how about hitting that hard 3-400 times in a 12 hour period?

I don't think he's knocking your design persay, it's just that many jeepspeeders have tried that setup, and it has failed. with no bracing from the back side I dont care how thick you make it, it will bend/fatigue/break.

edit: yikes old thread :doh:


:gee:
Click to expand...

good call

they are simply the dpg plates.

had em' for a few years. they are the thicker of the 2 designs they put out.

i go as fast as the rest of the rig can and the east coast allows:o
 
GrimmJeeper said:
how about hitting that hard 3-400 times in a 12 hour period?
Click to expand...

It was worded 'a couple hits', no?

i dont really think anyone expects that to be used on a 1700 racer...but for the normal user its worked great for me at least...i think thats just the direction the tech in this thread is going (was going? haha)
 
Last edited:
Not trying to be a smart ass just explaining the comment about it not working, and where he was coming from with it. :dunno: this section is about jeepspeed information and quite a few people who post here are on or help with race teams... the responses you are going to get are bound to be more about sustainability.

Just trying to help.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
Not trying to be a smart ass just explaining the comment about it not working, and where he was coming from with it. :dunno: this section is about jeepspeed information and quite a few people who post here are on or help with race teams... the responses you are going to get are bound to be more about sustainability.

Just trying to help.
Click to expand...

sorry to bump this

but they bent:confused1

you were right lol
 
Thats ok, I just about ripped my jeep in half racing through the whoop roads out in JV :gee: next time I'm caging it BEFORE i start wheeling it :D
 
GrimmJeeper said:
Thats ok, I just about ripped my jeep in half racing through the whoop roads out in JV :gee: next time I'm caging it BEFORE i start wheeling it :D
Click to expand...

each xj i build i say that it will be caged before it gets wheeled. never happens. -sigh-
 
The way I'm going it will be a cage with a jeep on it, there won't be much xj left when I'm done :D its going to take awhile so I won't be able to break it before it's done lol
 
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