Second failed attempt at my oilpan gasket.

M

MaxxXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bakersfield CA
Ok so this oilpan is refusing to seal, I bought a rubber type single piece gasket from vatozone, my first attempt I just used the blue RTV between the gasket and pan, i didnt give it much time to cure like it says on the tube and my first drive somewhere It leaked out the front by the timing cover dropped back and down the pan, so I pulled it back down to fix it, I noticed oil between the engine and gasket up front so I figured that was my problem, i got some more blue rtv and put it between the engine and pan and let it cure for an hour before i reinstalled the pan...Nope! Leaking at the same place! So I'm over this BS, I'm about ready to throw in the towel and have it be a mechanics problem.

Is the rubber oilpan gasket a bad design? Should I be using the cork gasket? How can I get a good seal to stop my new pan from leaking?
 
MaxxXJ said:
Ok so this oilpan is refusing to seal, I bought a rubber type single piece gasket from vatozone, my first attempt I just used the blue RTV between the gasket and pan, i didnt give it much time to cure like it says on the tube and my first drive somewhere It leaked out the front by the timing cover dropped back and down the pan, so I pulled it back down to fix it, I noticed oil between the engine and gasket up front so I figured that was my problem, i got some more blue rtv and put it between the engine and pan and let it cure for an hour before i reinstalled the pan...Nope! Leaking at the same place! So I'm over this BS, I'm about ready to throw in the towel and have it be a mechanics problem.

Is the rubber oilpan gasket a bad design? Should I be using the cork gasket? How can I get a good seal to stop my new pan from leaking?
Click to expand...

I don't know what brand gasket you bought but you should use a Felpro PermaDry one-piece molded rubber gasket.

Do not put RTV on the whole gasket, it only needs a bead of RTV at the timing chain cover-to-engine block split lines and at the rear main bearing cap-to-engine block split lines.

Note that the Felpro gasket has a few bolt holes with rubber extruding into the hole that makes the holes smaller than the rest. These holes are used to put oil pan bolts in the holes to hold the gasket to the oil pan, which makes it easier to install the gasket/pan by holding the gasket in place.

Use Permatex Ultra Gray RTV.

Clean all RTV from the pan and engine block before installation of the pan/gasket.

The 1/4-20 bolts get torqued to 84 in. lbs., the 5/16-18 bolts get torqued to 132 in. lbs.
 
Same problem I am having but it's not leaking from the front but rear. I am going to be doing my 4th gasket soon but like I said before I have used everything to hold the gasket and the rear keeps moving and sliding into the pan causing a big leak. So because its doing that I am pulling the engine to make sure it goes on right. I know that's a little extreme to do but Haven't really been able to drive the jeep in the 3 months I have had it. I have drove it like maybe 26 miles in 3 months.
 
Gnarlyrider27 said:
Same problem I am having but it's not leaking from the front but rear. I am going to be doing my 4th gasket soon but like I said before I have used everything to hold the gasket and the rear keeps moving and sliding into the pan causing a big leak. So because its doing that I am pulling the engine to make sure it goes on right. I know that's a little extreme to do but Haven't really been able to drive the jeep in the 3 months I have had it. I have drove it like maybe 26 miles in 3 months.
Click to expand...

If you're having that much of a problem with the rear popping out, get some Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant, in a small can, and brush a coating of this stuff on the oil pan at the rear gasket seat. Let it get tacky then place the gasket on the pan. Do the same at the front if required. Allow the High Tack/gasket to dry before attempting to install the pan.

This will aid in holding the gasket in place while to are installing the pan.

Pulling the engine to install a gasket would be extreme.
 
I have used that stuff and still popped out. I wanna repaint the engine anyways and clean it so that would be a good chance to. Plus I need to check out my ring gear and all that too.
 
And note on mine I haven't had to add any oil at all but leaks when I park on slight incline. But if I park facing down hill doesnt leak just when facing up hill and now not sure if its the oil pan or transmission fluid.
 
Sidewinder CC said:
I don't know what brand gasket you bought but you should use a Felpro PermaDry one-piece molded rubber gasket.

Do not put RTV on the whole gasket, it only needs a bead of RTV at the timing chain cover-to-engine block split lines and at the rear main bearing cap-to-engine block split lines.

Note that the Felpro gasket has a few bolt holes with rubber extruding into the hole that makes the holes smaller than the rest. These holes are used to put oil pan bolts in the holes to hold the gasket to the oil pan, which makes it easier to install the gasket/pan by holding the gasket in place.

Use Permatex Ultra Gray RTV.

Clean all RTV from the pan and engine block before installation of the pan/gasket.

The 1/4-20 bolts get torqued to 84 in. lbs., the 5/16-18 bolts get torqued to 132 in. lbs.
Click to expand...

Is there a special torque pattern to oilpans? I wouldn't think so being only 7 to 11 ft lbs. I used the felpro rubber gasket I read that the rubber ones tend to leak, ill give it another shot, maybe autozone will warranty this one out as faulty.
I may try a different method and stick the gasket to the engine first then bring up the oilpan to the gasket
 
Let me introduce you to these:
ph_1143.jpg


Fel-pro "Snap-ups" They hold the gasket in place while you position the pan in place, and then, hold both the pan and gasket while you start the bolts. Indispensable in putting an oil pan on, in-car.

And, as other posters have pointed out, you only need 4 small dabs of silicone between the gasket and the block; at the block/timing cover seam and each side of the main bearing cap, and none between pan and gasket.
 
I have used those snap ups but still my problem is the rear gets pushed into the pan and leaks but only when parked up hill or driving up hill and my trans fluid isnt bad. Just started to smell burnt.
 
Digger87xj said:
Let me introduce you to these:
ph_1143.jpg


Fel-pro "Snap-ups" They hold the gasket in place while you position the pan in place, and then, hold both the pan and gasket while you start the bolts. Indispensable in putting an oil pan on, in-car.

And, as other posters have pointed out, you only need 4 small dabs of silicone between the gasket and the block; at the block/timing cover seam and each side of the main bearing cap, and none between pan and gasket.
Click to expand...

These are good. You just have to make sure you get the correct thread size. Oil Pan bolts are 1/4-20 threads for the most part.
 
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