I'm getting ready to build a sub box for my two 10" Kicker comp vr's. My two favorite types of music are heavy metal and classic rock. The box will be 1cu. ft. per sub. I just don't know if i should build a ported or sealed box. I don't listen to rap so i don't want that crappy boomy bass, just nice clean bass.
Sealed or ported sub box??
- Thread starter sean883
- Start date
Slammed_am
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Old Forge, PA
sean883 said:
For those types of music......Sealed.
Plus ported boxes tend to be a little bigger.
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
The design of the box really depends on a lot of factors. The main one has to do with the physics of the speaker itself. Without knowing the numbers and doing the math, any answer is a shot in the dark.
Gridikal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sidney, NE
That size should be ok... but by barely. I would have made it more like 1.4 cu.ft to follow Kicker's recomendations. Kicker's min. recomended volume is .8 cu.ft. -with a 1 cu.ft. box the displacement of the sub should put you pretty close to that.
jjvande
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albuquerque NM 505 burque
also, typically sealed boxes require more power to control the motion of the driver. uncontrolled motion = distortion. Ported boxes are more efficient with less power, but often have a louder resonant freq. spike. sounds boomy, but can also sound more punchy if that freq spike is in the upper bass freq range...say 50-60 Hz.
with 2 10"s you should have plenty of bass with either design. If you go with a nice powerfull amp...go the sealed design.
BTW, I've seen a LOT of drivers destroyed by running them in sealed boxes with improper volumes at too high dB with puny amps. My advice is to build the box u want and TEST it before you cover it/finish it. see how it sounds before you spend all day working on it.
for sealed boxes, i use a test box that has an adjustable volume, by means of a back pannel that moves in and out like a plunger. You could build one of these with not much more effort and fine tune the response of the sub, then remove the extra material and seal the enclosure properly. test it IN your car to see if you like it.
just some suggestions
with 2 10"s you should have plenty of bass with either design. If you go with a nice powerfull amp...go the sealed design.
BTW, I've seen a LOT of drivers destroyed by running them in sealed boxes with improper volumes at too high dB with puny amps. My advice is to build the box u want and TEST it before you cover it/finish it. see how it sounds before you spend all day working on it.
for sealed boxes, i use a test box that has an adjustable volume, by means of a back pannel that moves in and out like a plunger. You could build one of these with not much more effort and fine tune the response of the sub, then remove the extra material and seal the enclosure properly. test it IN your car to see if you like it.
just some suggestions
JEEPTHIS
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- surrounded by Amish
You might want to check out this article. I have one soundstream granite pro series 10" in a sealed bandpass box that blows away every kicker, fosgate, etc... sealed or ported double 10 setup that I've encountered. My taste in music is the same as yours. Yes, it's a little bit more involved to build but there's only one speaker taking up room and the end result, in my opinion, is well worth it.
http://www.maximacar.com/bandpass.htm
http://www.maximacar.com/bandpass.htm
Gridikal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sidney, NE
and don't forget to polyfill if you are going with the sealed... for ported it isn't as neccesary but with a sealed box it is VERY recomended- use a staple gun and fill the box about 3/4 full, it does effecdt the sound so be sure and play around with the amount of polyfill, but go no less than 50% full
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