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Running very weak

boatz73

NAXJA Forum User
Location
virgin island
1997 xj automatic. Went offroading with some friends today and everything was good until the way back i was in 4L in third gear doing about 10mph then had a pretty narly area so i slowed down and put it in 1/2 gear and started to go up the hill when it just started hesitating like crazy and would die out. I had to get towed out. Now i can start it fine, it idles good, fluids all look good, but if I give it a regular amount of gas it will start bucking the check engine light will flash and it will stall out. If i slowly give it gas i mean real slow I can start to accelerate and get up to full speed. Now that i'm near home I came to a stop and it does not even have enough power to make it up the driveway. When i'm on flat ground giving it slow gas it will shift through all of the gears. But now that stopped in front of driveway with slight hill I can't make it up without it bucking and stalling in all gears and in 2h, 4h, 4L. I can't find anything that has come loose and the only code I have is a 12 from disconnecting the battery the other day. Any help much appreciated!!!!!
 
Any thoughts, I'm trying to narrow it down. Is there any easy steps to determine if it could be trans or transfer case or torque converter. If its my distributor would it be able to start as well as it does?
 
Any thoughts, I'm trying to narrow it down. Is there any easy steps to determine if it could be trans or transfer case or torque converter. If its my distributor would it be able to start as well as it does?

If you can't rev up the engine when in neutral, then WV24976 has given you a starting place.
 
A faulty O2 sensor will cause one or more of these symptoms: bucking/stalling/backfiring. Test the O2 sensors, check the O2 fuses, and inspect the O2 wire harnesses.

Test the Throttle Position Sensor.

TPS failure may have one or more of these Physical Symptoms:

1) The engine loses power and is stalling.

2) The engine will idle, but may die as soon as you press the gas pedal. When driving, it seems as if all power is gone.

3) Sometimes it feels as if the transmission is failed or isn't shifting properly, if at all. If you quickly jump on the gas you might be able to get the transmission to shift, but it won’t shift properly by itself. Shifting manually, the transmission goes through all the gears.

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics. The TPS function should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected.

TPS TEST

The TPS is mounted on the throttle body. The TPS is a variable resistor that provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an input signal (voltage) that represents throttle blade position. The sensor is connected to the throttle blade shaft. As the position of the throttle blade changes, the resistance of the TPS changes. Along with inputs from other sensors, the PCM uses the TPS input to determine current engine operating conditions. In response to engine operating conditions, the PCM will adjust fuel injector pulse width and ignition timing.

The PCM supplies approximately 5 volts to the TPS. The TPS output voltage (input signal to the PCM) represents the throttle blade position. The PCM receives an input signal voltage from the TPS. It is best to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5volts. This will vary in an approximate range of from .25 volts at minimum throttle opening (idle), to 4.8 volts at WOT wide open throttle.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture, and vibration, leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following:

-Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".

- High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.

Cheap crappy "Lifetime Warranty" parts are often out of specification or even failed right out of the box. Many times they have a short service life before they fail. Always buy top quality replacement parts and genuine Jeep sensors.
 
Thank you for the information on how to test the TPS, I don't have an analog meter only digital one at work. I will try to find one to buy tomorrow and test it out. The jeep ran ok to work today as long as I was super easy on the gas pedal. But on the way home it stalled out several times. Then started dying right when I would place it in drive. I was able to drive the last couple hundred yards home in reverse without it dying out. At work I ran codes again and had P0756 shift solenoid b, performance or stuck off. We cleared all codes then I drove it again had the same issues but the code did not come on.
Question should the TPS and the crankshaft and camshaft sensors throw a code if they are bad?
I had a problem with 02 sensor about three months ago and disconnected it and it cleared the issues so I replaced the sensor. Today I disconnected 02 sensor and still had same issue, so I'm assuming its not the 02 sensor. Also in park and in neutral I can rev the engine up wide open with no issues, so I'm assuming the catalytic converter is not the issue.
 
Didn't have a meter available to test the TPS, but NAPA did have one so I switched it out and no change in how it runs. I'm going to buy a fuel pressure gauge this tomorrow and test the fuel pressure. UPDATE a new symptom, I ran it again and with slow gas pressure it will run ok. Press on gas bucks and normally stalls. If i'm stopped at the base of even a slight incline it will buck and stall when apply any gas. NOW the weird thing if I throw it in reverse I can go up any hill in reverse no issues at all. Do you think this could still be a fuel issue? Or a chance the new TPS sensor is bad? I have no trouble codes at all. When the jeep bucks it does have the check engine light flashing but as soon as it stalls out and I restart there are no codes. Starting to hit frustration level hasta
 
UPDATE
So fuel pressure with key on run was 48 psi then started to drop. Once engine started was at 48 psi and stayed constant. Is that a good pressure for the 97 XJ?
Also kept trying to get it to stall and throw a code sucedded after a couple times and got code p1899 Park/Neutral switch performance. Pending.

I have a cracked drivers side motor mount but engine doesn't seem to be moving bad at all when I rev it or pop it. I wiggled around all the wires I could see and nothing affected it at idle it ran smooth.

Any ideas
 
I figured out my problem, my passenger side motor mounts have sheared off and the motor mount was pinching the camshaft sensor wire and grounding it out. So at least I know the problem now just have to get those bolts out. Thanks for all the help with trouble shooting.
 
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