Rough Country drop bracket install w/ pics

yup the long arms will hang up as much as these would. the thing to remember is that the trail masters had no support in the back so if you did hit something it could bend or rip them off. but any mod you do to the heep has a draw back so what is the point. of bashing these
 
I'm glad to hear they're working for you guys, and you're certainly entitled to your opinions. Hey that's what makes modifying Jeeps so much fun, you can do it any way you want. But imho those brackets are not the answer. My old ones were so tore up if you brushed up against it with an arm or hand you would cut yourself! I finally had to grind them smooth. It's funny when I took them off in 96 (gee same year RE opened for business, go figure) and put RE arms on the brackets were'nt worth anything to anybody and I ended up literally throwing them away!

Let me ask you guys running those, how many times have you welded your frame to repair the cracks?
 
Why even bother with the drop brackets. I had my Front Driveshaft shortened by 1 3/4 inches and have absolutely no problems and it only cost me $50.
 
Why even bother with the drop brackets. I had my Front Driveshaft shortened by 1 3/4 inches and have absolutely no problems and it only cost me $50.

Huh?

DB's have nothing to do with driveshaft length...

They correct suspension angles, specifically control arm angles.

At about 4.5" lift, they'll put your CAs perfectly horizontal, just like stock. Something you can't even do with longarms.

Robert
 
Here is my idea for reinforcement. Used muddeprived's pic


2zi4i2o.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here is my idea for reinforcement. Used muddeprived's pic


2zi4i2o.jpg

That's pretty much what RE's support bracket looks like. It's a little better than RC's. Why is everyone worrying about getting hung up on these? we get hung up on alot of things when out wheeling. Our axle tubes, our t-case crossmember, the diffs, shock mounts, and even the bumpers. Who cares if the arms drop down a couple more inches. You will learn to adapt to them and avoid getting hung up. If you do happen to get stuck on em, then have your buddy yank you off. It's not like the biggest deal when you get hung up. Four wheeling is all about challenge and sometimes the challenge beats you and you need a pull. No big deal. As far as I am concerned, having an excellent riding jeep 99% of the time is sure worth the one or two times a year you get hung up on em.
 
Hey Muddeprived, are you running the newer RC LCAs? I have the RC 4.5 lift with the old style LCA (nonadjustable with the bend) and I want to get a set of these drop brackets. My concern is that several people have found that the drop brackets are pushing their axle too far forward and rubbing the sway bar links (I saw your fix earlier in this thread). I really don't want to go back to the stock control arms. Just looking for a setup that will work - I need to keep the front swaybar since I do considerable highway miles.

Any input from anyone who has done this mod would be appreciated. What LCAs are you running with your drop brackets, stock or aftermarket?
 
Hey Muddeprived, are you running the newer RC LCAs? I have the RC 4.5 lift with the old style LCA (nonadjustable with the bend) and I want to get a set of these drop brackets. My concern is that several people have found that the drop brackets are pushing their axle too far forward and rubbing the sway bar links (I saw your fix earlier in this thread). I really don't want to go back to the stock control arms. Just looking for a setup that will work - I need to keep the front swaybar since I do considerable highway miles.

Any input from anyone who has done this mod would be appreciated. What LCAs are you running with your drop brackets, stock or aftermarket?

Yes I am running the newer flex arms from RC. The drop brackets DO push your axle forward IF you are running 4"-4.5". I've seen 5"+ rigs and they don't have this issue. You have a couple options to fix this issue. Drop brackets for your sway bar are available from Rusty's or RE:

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Jeep/XJ/Product.aspx?part=RE9921

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/mercha...ustys&Product_Code=RC-SB250-UV&Category_Code=

Those drop and also push the sway bar forward to clear the links but IMO they are not needed if your wheelbase and caster is set correctly.

PIC-0181.jpg


DSCF5547.jpg


You can see how the sway bar bracket is too close to the coil spring. In the pictures I have 3" sway bar links from warrior products. I didn't upgrade when I went up to 4" so I ordered new longer 4.5" from Zone:

http://zoneoffroad.com/product-acc2?ki=67
(last item at bottom)

DSCF5751.jpg


DSCF5753.jpg


You can see how it pushes the sway bar up more and clears the spring. When I first installed the arms, I had them at 16.5" long and they were way too long so I shortened them to 15.75" and it brought the axle back some and centered the tire in the fender and also spaced the coil away from the sway bar some more.

What I would do first and check your wheel base and make sure the tires are centered in the fender. At 4.5" your lower arms should be around 15.75" and then your uppers should be adjusted to set caster/pinion. As you do this, keep an eye on your coil springs. Sometimes they will arch forward when you rotate the axle. This puts them closer to the sway bar links.

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the info, pics, and links - you really went through some trouble to post all this - Thanks again, most helpful.
Yeah, I'll measure up and check the length of my LCAs, unfortunately I am still running stock UCAs so not much adjustability there - maybe a good excuse to spring for some new adjustable UCAs.
 
How soon before install do you guys recommend hitting all the stock bolts with PB Blaster? My Heep is 10 years old, and although the LCAs were put on 4 years ago, im sure theyre rust-fused together already.
 
Oh my lift has already been on my Jeep for a few years now. It took me and WaltonXJ almost two full days to install that thing. Every single bolt was rusted and/or snapped. What a huge pain.

I got so discouraged by this that I jsut went to my mechanic to get the brackets installed this time. The ego will pay a small price for that one, but trying to remove more rust bolts in 85* muggy Cleveland can shove it!
 
Oh my lift has already been on my Jeep for a few years now. It took me and WaltonXJ almost two full days to install that thing. Every single bolt was rusted and/or snapped. What a huge pain.

I got so discouraged by this that I jsut went to my mechanic to get the brackets installed this time. The ego will pay a small price for that one, but trying to remove more rust bolts in 85* muggy Cleveland can shove it!

Buy a can of Aero Kroil and never have that problem again.
 
I was planning on getting some but RC just told me that due to my HD offroad FRame stffeners....they will not work! That sux!
 
Funny you should mention that. I've got trailmaster db's with RE braces.

I'm planning on installing HDO stiffeners weekend after next. Have to see how it'll go.
 
My only concern with this install is the braces in the rear, the bolts thats hold that are only bolted into sheetmetal on that part of the frame. Which means it only has like one thread grabbing it, anyone have any problems with it stripping out ever? I was thinking that welding it on or at least tacking it would solve any potential problems
K i just spent a couple hours reading this entire thread and letting it soak in. now that these DBs have been out a while.. has anyone who have been running them have any sort of stripping/cracking/disfigurement between the brace and framerail? Thanks
 
Well, I ran my '01 off into a ditch at about 25mph and completely pretzeled the right LCA mounts and trackbar. I swear it stopped so quick the rear wheels came off the ground. I have a BDS 4.5" lift and the control arms were OK, but I was concerned about the amount of force the drop brackets and uniframe were subjected to.

As it turns out all was well, the drop brackets didn't move at all and there was no other damage.
 
Back
Top