Rough Country drop bracket install w/ pics

I'm not running my braces yet have had no problems. I am just to lazy to get to work on them. I plan to mod mine because I don't like the idea of the two sheet metal screws holding them to the body.

Dave
 
The braces don' seem to be causing a problem for me but I wish I drilled one size smaller than what was recommended in the directions. Can't really torque those self tappers down too far before they strip out. Woudn't be hard to weld an extension that would then bolt to the crossmember! Like the Rubicon Express drop bracket braces do...

But like I said I haven't had a problem. In fact the driver's side brace can't even line up flat against the unibody rail because I dented the unibody in that area on a rock way back when. Still no problems.
 
Blaine B. said:
The braces don' seem to be causing a problem for me but I wish I drilled one size smaller than what was recommended in the directions. Can't really torque those self tappers down too far before they strip out. Woudn't be hard to weld an extension that would then bolt to the crossmember! Like the Rubicon Express drop bracket braces do...

But like I said I haven't had a problem. In fact the driver's side brace can't even line up flat against the unibody rail because I dented the unibody in that area on a rock way back when. Still no problems.
Click to expand...
x2, dent in the unirail,after stiffeners went in they fit snug and tight!even crank em down a bit!
 
Blaine B. said:
The braces don' seem to be causing a problem for me but I wish I drilled one size smaller than what was recommended in the directions. Can't really torque those self tappers down too far before they strip out. Woudn't be hard to weld an extension that would then bolt to the crossmember! Like the Rubicon Express drop bracket braces do...

But like I said I haven't had a problem. In fact the driver's side brace can't even line up flat against the unibody rail because I dented the unibody in that area on a rock way back when. Still no problems.
Click to expand...

same problem here. drivers side doesnt sit completely flat against the frame rail and the self tappers surely wont tighten it down any.
i plan to put some tack welds in a few spots around the braces at the rail.
i will probably be fine the way they are but i figure why the hell not.
i notice my passenger side brace sits lower then the drivers side. the drivers side is up from the bottom of the LCA bracket about an 1/8" and the pass. side brace is even with the LCA bracket. i couldnt get it to go up anymore like the drivers side.

super easy install tho and i am pleased for sure.= :thumbup::thumbup:

i think 1/4" shorter hardware that goes into the OEM LCA shim location, would also help some to give a little better clearance behind the braces angle section. but that could just be a problem with my Heeps chassis and mounts.
 
With our tweaked unibodies these problems are not specific to Rough Country but would be noticed with any drop bracket kit :)

My passenger side sits flush but my driver's side sort of has a gap. Doesn't bother me though, hah! Didn't notice any issues with the hardware where the stock alignment shims go. Also it appears both my drop brackets fit the same on both sides, pretty much a mirror image besides the dented unibody on driver's side.
 
after installing the drop brackets my sway bar links are almost touching the coils so i just got the brackets to move the sway bar down and forward and now the sway bar is at a steep angle. im using the non-adjustable links that came with the RC 4.5 kit. would i be ok to us the sway bar drop brackets with stock sway bar links?
 
My swaybars rub one one side although the swaybar bushings are pretty much toast.

I measured my wheelbase and I am actually a half inch or so shorter than stock wheelbase so I do not attribute it to misadjustment of my adjustable upper and lower control arms.

I do have JKS disconnects and 7" lift so I'm not really sure. Going to lose the swaybar when I do OTK. Not sure yet if I'll bother buying the longer brackets to go on the axle or not to clear the tierod.
 
rufus_1111 said:
after installing the drop brackets my sway bar links are almost touching the coils so i just got the brackets to move the sway bar down and forward and now the sway bar is at a steep angle. im using the non-adjustable links that came with the RC 4.5 kit. would i be ok to us the sway bar drop brackets with stock sway bar links?
Click to expand...

so no one knows?
 
I don't see why it wouldn't. The angle of your swaybar doesn't really have alot to do with its functionality, as long as its not rubbing your springs. All your swaybar does it provide a torsion force between each side of your front axle. It can do that at pretty much any angle, as long as it is attached to both ends of your axle and the frame.
 
rufus_1111 said:
after installing the drop brackets my sway bar links are almost touching the coils so i just got the brackets to move the sway bar down and forward and now the sway bar is at a steep angle. im using the non-adjustable links that came with the RC 4.5 kit. would i be ok to us the sway bar drop brackets with stock sway bar links?
Click to expand...

There's no need for brackets to relocate the sway bar. The problem lies in the caster and length of the links. When I installed mine, the passenger sway bar link was 1/4" away from the coil spring and sometimes rubbed with the slightest flex. I was using sway bar links for a 2-3" lift. At first I adjusted the caster, pulling my lower links forward, which leveled out the axle and brought he coil spring back just a bit and that cleared it up but then my caster was off. Then I realized i could just use longer links and I got Zone's 4.5" solid links and voila, much more space and I could return the caster within specs. When the links are too short, they pull down the sway bar at an angle.

Before: (they rubbed when connected)
DSCF5543.jpg

After new longer links:
DSCF5753.jpg


Last product at the bottom:
http://zoneoffroad.com/product?ki=67

I came to the conclusion that if you don't have 4.5" or more, you will run into sway bar link problems. I was using these at 4" and had issues cuz the brackets naturally push the axle forward 1" so if you don't have enough lift, the axle would be too far forward.
 
Last edited:
garr said:
Instead of using the self tappers to secure the reinforcing bracket's,
Would there be any benefit in just drilling & tapping the Hole the correct way ?
Click to expand...


there is not enough material to grab by tapping a hole in the framrail. you would only get maybe 2 fine threads by tapping. you could drill a hole and put nutserts in the frame rail and use bolts to secure the supports.

another option would be to put a couple of spot welds to hold them to the framerail. if you needed to remove the supports, it would only take a couple of minutes to grind the spot welds off.
 
89xj said:
there is not enough material to grab by tapping a hole in the framrail. you would only get maybe 2 fine threads by tapping. you could drill a hole and put nutserts in the frame rail and use bolts to secure the supports.

another option would be to put a couple of spot welds to hold them to the framerail. if you needed to remove the supports, it would only take a couple of minutes to grind the spot welds off.
Click to expand...

I welded my supports the the uni-body rail, works good fo me!
 
89xj said:
there is not enough material to grab by tapping a hole in the framrail. you would only get maybe 2 fine threads by tapping. you could drill a hole and put nutserts in the frame rail and use bolts to secure the supports.

another option would be to put a couple of spot welds to hold them to the framerail. if you needed to remove the supports, it would only take a couple of minutes to grind the spot welds off.
Click to expand...

Where would you slip the Nutserts into the unibody?
 
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