Redneck & Backwoods, yet why wouldn't it work?

[FarmerMatt]

I guess the whole point of this is to get away from the military style insert & 2 piece wheel. Mounting, although tedious & time consuming, is doable & not the real issue. Dismounting them is the problem. Let me see if I can explain the process... You can not break down the tires on a machine because you will just be pushing against the insert. First you have to unbolt the 2 wheel halves. Next you have to spread the halves apart & insert some sort of spacers between the halves (I used 2" square tube). Now it's all about the tire hammer & breaking down the bead. If you're good with the hammer you can break down the inner bead decently enough. If you've never held a tire hammer before you will beat up the wheel pretty good & get a damn good workout. The major problem comes with breaking down the outer bead. Since these wheel shells were one piece wheels to start out with they come complete with saftey bead. So now you end up trying to break down the outer bead over a saftey bead with a tire hammer. I'm sorry, but this just aint going to happen. Without the back half of the wheel, putting the tire / wheel combo clamped into the tire machine becomes a tricky proposition. I finally ended up with a hodge podge stack of spacers that would suspend the wheel & insert up off the machine yet still allow the breakdown bar to do it's job. One of my issues is that these 37x17 MTR's are load range "E" & have an insanely thick bead. I'm not sure how other tires would compare, but I doubt I'd have these problems with my "C" range MTR's. I guess the solution would be to not cut tires... Or, not let FishBoy drive your junk... Clear as mud?

Matt

 

[Lincoln]

Or maybe get some better tires.

Your so handy just make something that will work with a porta power.

 

[Ludakris]

Is your $100-150 per wheel including a new steel wheel?
a local distributer of the staun inflateable beadlocks quoted me around $175 a wheel.. I think i will go with those when the time comes..
i am still kind of lost on how the exterior tire gets air..

 

[Roxtar]

Is your $100-150 per wheel including a new steel wheel?
a local distributer of the staun inflateable beadlocks quoted me around $175 a wheel.. I think i will go with those when the time comes..
i am still kind of lost on how the exterior tire gets air..

I guess just put a couple holes in the inner tire. That way if the inner tire did cover the valve it would still allow air to pass through. The inner tire would still be inflated because of the tube.

 

[88rockxj]

I guess just put a couple holes in the inner tire. That way if the inner tire did cover the valve it would still allow air to pass through. The inner tire would still be inflated because of the tube.

that would defeat the whole purpose of doing it, the inner tire needs to be on there at a higher psi then the outer tire so it will push the tire back onto the bead. having holes on the inner tire would make both tires be at the same psi and basicly worthless, when you air your tire down to 3 psi it would cause the inner one to be that low too. unless of course you run an innertube on the inner tire.

 

[Ludakris]

I guess sarcasm is a lost art....


I understand it but my mind isnt comprehending...

 

[Roxtar]

unless of course you run an innertube on the inner tire.

ding, ding, ding.
We have a winner.
Yea, you have to run an innertube in these.

 

[FarmerMatt]

Is your $100-150 per wheel including a new steel wheel?
a local distributer of the staun inflateable beadlocks quoted me around $175 a wheel.. I think i will go with those when the time comes..
i am still kind of lost on how the exterior tire gets air..

Yes, that would include a new wheel. If you're going to just use the wheels you have than you could do this for next to nothing. If you bought brand new tires you could do it for around $70-$80 with cheapy new tires. The trick would be to find some decent take offs that the tire shops going to throw out anyway. Then you could do it for the cost of an innertube & yes you have to run an innertube in the inner tire. The guy in the pirate thread is not running straps to allow the air to run past the inner tube to the outer tire. He deflates the innertube utill air bypasses & than reinflates the innertube. The straps would take care of this problem

 

[88rockxj]

ding, ding, ding.
We have a winner.
Yea, you have to run an innertube in these.

my bad i should have read the whole thread, i should of figured it was the same as what i saw on pirate. now that i think about it , i dont think it could work without any inner tube. sorry for the brainfart moment

 

[Ludakris]

not sure if someone brought this up.. but wont the extra tire add a good amount of rotating mass to the setup? sounds like it would be pretty heavy in addition to the outer tire.

 

[Ludakris]

anyone got any pics of stauns inflation system just not making sense in my head as it is described.

http://www.staunproducts.com/beadlock.php

 

[bj-666]

http://www.staunproducts.com/beadlock.php

thanks i ment how they get air into the remaining part of the tire not the actualy beed lock

 

[FarmerMatt]

thanks i ment how they get air into the remaining part of the tire not the actualy beed lock

They use a nylon strap. The strap rests on top of the secondary stem for the outer tire. It's routed above the stem, under the innertube & inbetween the 2 beads of the tires (inside the bead of the outer tire & outside the bead of the inner tire). Think of the strap as the air passage or pathway for the air. It works because the nylon webbing is pourous & allows the air inbetween it's fibers.

Matt

 

[Roxtar]

Set of the 15" Stauns for sale on Pirate
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=412857&highlight=TR

 

[Matt S.]

I am pulling this one up to see if any one ever got anywhere with this. The new tires arrived just a minute ago, and the black steelies have got to stay until new axles go under with different bolt patters.

I was thinking about making my own rings then cutting and welding them to the steelies, but remembered that this okie design would work.

Who want to try to come up with a how to? I think this is my option.

 

[SeanP]

check out billavista's write-up on PBB tech on Dean's internal beadlocks. Dean used to make internal locks out of big PVC tube (it's what i have) and has since made them out of steel. looks pretty cool. scroll down to the bottom for the new steel inserts. Dean's a local boy and a good friend and wheeler

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-Hummer_Rims

SeanP

 

[Matt S.]

Here is my problem, if my dad or I decide to shell out some coin for beadlocks. its going to be aluminum Champions. Steel rims bend, no matter who makes them. FarmerMatt bought Stazworks, and well... he was seriously disappointed. They are supposed to be the "best".

What I am looking for is a bead lock for the steel rims i have that would hold me over until the new axles go under (new bolt pattern).

The only other option is make my own rings and weld them onto my rims and call it done.

 

[Roxtar]

Here is my problem, if my dad or I decide to shell out some coin for beadlocks. its going to be aluminum Champions. Steel rims bend, no matter who makes them. FarmerMatt bought Stazworks, and well... he was seriously disappointed. They are supposed to be the "best".

What I am looking for is a bead lock for the steel rims i have that would hold me over until the new axles go under (new bolt pattern).

The only other option is make my own rings and weld them onto my rims and call it done.

Randy (IntrepidXJ) welded his beadlocks up and has been very happy with them.
PM him for info.

 

[BIGWOODY]

I've got 5 aluminum 17"x8" Trail ready beadlocks with a brand new (never run) 39 red label BFG Krawlers with two sets of lock rings (one silver/ the other red) 5 on 5 1/2" lug pattern with 4 3/4" BS....$2900 will take them all. 5 wheels and 4 new tires.