Red Jeeps reincarnation

Alright so I know I've got a ton of updating to do but how dumb of me would it be to try and buy Adams old axles again and sell the 8.8, 30 and waggy 44 and all the parts it came with? Starting to realize its getting unrealistic to save up for the parts id need to finish the waggy 44 and 8.8, not to mention the cost of steering and new rims/ tires. By buying Adams old axles and rims/tires I'd be cutting a huge chunk of time off of my build so it seems like a no brainer even though I always like being able to say I built all my shit.
 
So after making the hike down to Long Island and back last Sunday I've officially got the 44 and 60 in my garage safe and sound, picked up a 2500 master cylinder too just to be safe, anyone know off the top of their heads how much longer the push rod needs to be extended?

Hoping to get the full swap done within the next week or 2 so the 30 8.8 and waggy 44 will be up for sale as soon as I get all my shit organized, ill toss up some prices soon too.

Got a ton of pictures to post, not to mention all the ones from nacfest that are still sitting in my phone so ill get around to a full update at some point soon, just been to busy working on this thing/work/girlfriend/family shit recently.

Things Ive crossed off the list recently:
Brown dog frame side motor mounts
2x6 rocker replacements a couple in past the door line, tied into the stiffys with 1.75 Dom
Rear stiffys
Shock hoops that tie into the wheel well arch rather than a cross bar
Gas tank skid
12in fox 2.0 remote resi's all around
Prothane bumps all around (already ruined 3 of the 4)
3 blown driveshafts
Uca bushings
Cleaned up after market wiring in engine bay
Tied a stinger into the front bumper (didnt just weld it to the skin, actually sunk it down to the 2x2 tube that acts as the crossmember)
Hella super tones cuz cherocar
A ton of other random shit I forget, got way to much rolling around in my head. It like taking one step forward and adding 5 steps to the finish line, glad I could jump ahead with these axles even though they aren't exactly how I would have built them. Guess I'm just happy to be getting the ball rolling in the right direction
 
cant figure out what to do on this one...



need to drill out the upper arms to fit the larger bolt but cant seem to find a way to line these things up any better than this. Probably due to the fact that the distance between the uca and lca is bigger creating a larger angle but can anyone think of a way to get a bolt straight through there? Didnt want to have to do a true 4 or 3 link just yet but looks like I might have to.


Still need to either find a track bar mount that will work, or fab one up myself so hopefully that and stiffening up around the steering box will get done this weekend. Also need to drill out the pitman arm to accept the 1 ton tie rod. Got a lot to do, and this rain hasn't been helping



 
you should "technically" be able to bolt on any system to that front axle since its as close to stock geometry as possible. you'll probably just need a longer front upper to reduce that angle. the trackbar should bolt in, idk what frame side end he has on it now but there was a rockkrawler heim in there. my suggestion would be to use a normal heim joint, and make a trackbar mount on the body that kicks out 2-3" if possible to get a longer trackbar... as that was the only thing that bothered me with the front end.

try using this:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/PAN-OUT.html

but you'll need to get a piece of metal bent so you can bolt it into the stock holes as well.. otherwise itll just rip off.

and damn those tires are SPANKED. do yourself and those poor balljoints a favor and get some 17s with a normal offset and real rubber.
 
Just a thought here but can you lightly bend the upper arms?
 
There's pics in my build thread of me making a upper 3 link mount on my Clayton crossmember
 
XJLI said:
you should "technically" be able to bolt on any system to that front axle since its as close to stock geometry as possible. you'll probably just need a longer front upper to reduce that angle. the trackbar should bolt in, idk what frame side end he has on it now but there was a rockkrawler heim in there. my suggestion would be to use a normal heim joint, and make a trackbar mount on the body that kicks out 2-3" if possible to get a longer trackbar... as that was the only thing that bothered me with the front end.

try using this:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/PAN-OUT.html

but you'll need to get a piece of metal bent so you can bolt it into the stock holes as well.. otherwise itll just rip off.

and damn those tires are SPANKED. do yourself and those poor balljoints a favor and get some 17s with a normal offset and real rubber.
Click to expand...


Think I might try and just make one out of the extra 2x6 I've got lying around, it's 3/16 so not as thick as the ruff stuff mount but hopefully ill be able to beef it up enough and tie it into the bolts as well as weld it to the frame.

Definitely getting a new rim/tire solution soon, I'm just way too broke at the moment to afford anything other than what it takes to get these in.

Might have to do a 3 link after all, that Johnny joints almost fully threaded out so making it longer doesn't seem to be an option, I'm just trying to get this thing back on the road as soon as possible since I have no car and have to bum rides to and from work all week. Clayton's 3 link addin with the mini truss might be the quickest fix, just sell the mini truss and make an upper mount on the crossmember
 
Alright think I figured out what I'm doing

Probably going to use the ruff stuff bracket and do something like rob did with the gussets and extra plating. Adam you remember what size the rock Krawler heim is? The guy gave me an insert for it so not sure if I should use that or not, pretty sure he only gave me one spacer for it too.

For the 3 link this might have to do

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/templates/ip_detailnf.cfm?globaldesc=na&rnumb=827&wherefrom=SEARCH&whichord=71008&department=Builder&class=N&special=R&sold=N&nextrow=Economy%20Square%20Tube%20Inserts%20-%201%22%20%2C%2014%20pitch%20machined%20for%20%2E125%20square%20tubing2300202&prevrow=1%2F2-20%20x%203%2E25%22%20Bolt%20Kit1100119&nextprev=0&subclass=ALL&subname=na&uas=N&zq=83518599&tokns=passed


https://www.claytonoffroad.com/templates/detailnf_price.cfm?globaldesc=na&rnumb=922&wherefrom=SEARCH&whichord=71008&department=01&class=N&special=R&sold=I&nextrow=TJ%2FLJ%2FXJ%2FZJ%2FYJ%20Custom%20Front%20Adjustable%20Trackbar%20w%2F2%22%20Johnny%20Joint4500300&prevrow=Lower%20Control%20Arm%20Housing2300104&nextprev=0&subclass=ALL&subname=na&uas=N&zq=87902133&tokns=passed&pagename=Online%20Store%20%3E%20XJ%20-%20Cherokee%2084-01%20%20%3E%20TJ%2FLJ%2FXJ%2FZJ%20Pro%20Series%20Front%20Upper%20Control%20Arm

Would it be a bad idea to just slap the mount on the top of the crossmember? It's a single piece unlike Clayton's 3 piece and the lca brackets are just welded to the bottom side, think it would put too much stress on it? Don't want to have to tie it into the side of the frame because then I wouldn't be able to drop the crossmember
 
idk what size the RK one is, but the threads are the the same as ruffstuff heims. i would just use a standard heims, that RK one was on my 93XJ before it made it to my 98... so it has a fair amount of wear on it.
 
XJLI said:
idk what size the RK one is, but the threads are the the same as ruffstuff heims. i would just use a standard heims, that RK one was on my 93XJ before it made it to my 98... so it has a fair amount of wear on it.
Click to expand...

Yeah probably going to order a 3/4 with some 5/8 misalignment spacers and call it a day.
 
Anyone got a 7/8 reamer I could borrow? Need to drill out the pitman arm for the Chevy 1 ton tre and don't want to have to rip it off the steering box to bring to a shop or spend the $70 for a new one
 
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