srmitchell
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mckinleyville (Humboldt) CA
We all know the feeling, when the Asin Warner-4 decides to shift from 2nd, to first gear at the worse time. If you have low gearing like me, it's awful, and it is whiplash inducing in 4 low.
I was tired of this, and I wanted full control of my aw4. Cue the RADesigns rail shifter, and you can get full control of all 4 gears, and with some wiring, full torque converter control.
I used Rory's site, and a couple other sources to find my info.
Big thanks to Rory (Owner of RADesigns) for his help on the phone. He is a
Supporter, so lets help him out!
http://radesignsproducts.com/aboutus.aspx
http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/awshift2/awshift2-2.htm
Warning- This mod will trigger the Check engine Light on OBDII Jeeps. I have a code reader/clearer, and I'm not due for smog for 2 years. It does not harm any other systems. It is worth it.
Here's the shifter, next to my key fob for scale.
The shifter has 3 wires. Red is 12v power. The yellow and Blue correspond with the 2 different solenoids. Shifting duties are handled by these 2 wires... it's that simple. The rail is just manipulating the solenoids in a way that is more intuitive than toggle switches.
However, I want to have both manual, and auto control. (If someone else drives it, or I'm lazy.)
This switch allows me to decide between the TCU, and the rail shifter.
It is a ON-ON, double pole, double throw switch. I had to order this from NAPA. Part # TG6064. Rory also sells rocker switches and a bezel, but I prefer the toggle design.
In addition to that switch, I wanted full control of the torque converter.
I used a single pole, double throw switch.
The center wire goes to the trans, the red wire is 12v, and the side blue wire is to the TCU.
This way...
-Bottom position, the torque converter is computer controlled.
-Center, TC is off
-Top position, TC is locked. (To be used only during light, cruising loads)
12 Volt duties were spliced into the "key-on" cigarette lighter. It is fused, and only works when the ignition is on.
All wiring was done in pairs, then grouped together. It was confusing, but looks pretty good.
Both switches done, and wired to position. I used 3.5 feet lengths of wire for each connection from the tcu harness to the switches. A lot... of... wire. My tcase and shifter bezels are both melted from bad light placement, so those light harnesses are tucked away.
It was a PITA to splice all these wires, because the 97+ tcu is tucked above the gas pedal. There's no slack either, so it's easier if you remove the lower knee panels.
00-01 Connector pin out- From "stu-offroad", and it is verified correct.
Pin #11- dark blue/white stripe - torque converter
Pin #12 - white - “solenoid A”
Pin #13 - orange/white stripe “solenoid B”
With the console back in, the wires fit well.
Switches are near the armrest. I can still fit my sigg water bottle, and the switches are in the right spot for easy finger access.
It's also easy to get to the wires, the center console tray comes right out, with 6 screws.
I was tired of this, and I wanted full control of my aw4. Cue the RADesigns rail shifter, and you can get full control of all 4 gears, and with some wiring, full torque converter control.
I used Rory's site, and a couple other sources to find my info.
Big thanks to Rory (Owner of RADesigns) for his help on the phone. He is a
Supporter, so lets help him out! http://radesignsproducts.com/aboutus.aspx
http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/awshift2/awshift2-2.htm
Warning- This mod will trigger the Check engine Light on OBDII Jeeps. I have a code reader/clearer, and I'm not due for smog for 2 years. It does not harm any other systems. It is worth it.
Here's the shifter, next to my key fob for scale.
The shifter has 3 wires. Red is 12v power. The yellow and Blue correspond with the 2 different solenoids. Shifting duties are handled by these 2 wires... it's that simple. The rail is just manipulating the solenoids in a way that is more intuitive than toggle switches.
However, I want to have both manual, and auto control. (If someone else drives it, or I'm lazy.)
This switch allows me to decide between the TCU, and the rail shifter.
It is a ON-ON, double pole, double throw switch. I had to order this from NAPA. Part # TG6064. Rory also sells rocker switches and a bezel, but I prefer the toggle design.
In addition to that switch, I wanted full control of the torque converter.
I used a single pole, double throw switch.
The center wire goes to the trans, the red wire is 12v, and the side blue wire is to the TCU.
This way...
-Bottom position, the torque converter is computer controlled.
-Center, TC is off
-Top position, TC is locked. (To be used only during light, cruising loads)
12 Volt duties were spliced into the "key-on" cigarette lighter. It is fused, and only works when the ignition is on.
All wiring was done in pairs, then grouped together. It was confusing, but looks pretty good.
Both switches done, and wired to position. I used 3.5 feet lengths of wire for each connection from the tcu harness to the switches. A lot... of... wire. My tcase and shifter bezels are both melted from bad light placement, so those light harnesses are tucked away.
It was a PITA to splice all these wires, because the 97+ tcu is tucked above the gas pedal. There's no slack either, so it's easier if you remove the lower knee panels.
00-01 Connector pin out- From "stu-offroad", and it is verified correct.
Pin #11- dark blue/white stripe - torque converter
Pin #12 - white - “solenoid A”
Pin #13 - orange/white stripe “solenoid B”
With the console back in, the wires fit well.
Switches are near the armrest. I can still fit my sigg water bottle, and the switches are in the right spot for easy finger access.
It's also easy to get to the wires, the center console tray comes right out, with 6 screws.
