Putting in a Dana 300

[asp]

there are a few ways. one involves transferring the holes using a transfer punch (i actually just bought a set today...) and the other is to make a small jig. a transfer punch is something that has a sharp point in the center of a bunch of different diameter shafts that you'd choose the right one to fit your hole.

 

[trail rate this]

I used an old set of crappy drill bit as transfer punches. I didn't know about transfer punches at the time. I'll have to get a set. I also have the 6 hole ring off the back of an AW4, that helped a lot. You can see it in my pics.

 

[asp]

I used an old set of crappy drill bit as transfer punches.

:shiver::nono:

 

[trail rate this]

:shiver::nono:

I dont want to hear it. It worked. The drill bit fit the hole perfect.

I have a spedometer now it drives like a different jeep.

 

[asp]

yeah, i'm just bustin your balls. that's cool that you got the speedo to work so easily.

 

[trail rate this]

Just had to plug it in and lock it down. Now it's to reseal some stuff to keep it from spitting oil.

 

[trail rate this]

Cutting a hole in the floor this morning so access the drain pan on the 300. I seem to be leaking alot from the edge the pan. I'll make it a removable access panel.

 

[trail rate this]

It seems the vent line was clogged, I took the compressor and blew air through it and it just blew back, so I replaced it. I was using the stock vent line for the 231. I guess it was building pressure and blowing oil out of anywhere it would go. I changed the fluid too. It was milky looking and I could see metal in it. The gears look in great shape.I finished the access panel too.

I made a rubber gasket out of some 20 mil goodyear rubber liner.

 

[Phil]

Time for an Atlas.

 

[asp]

man, did you bother checking the internals before you put it in?

 

[trail rate this]

Yeh, I pulled the cover. Even had the input out. It all looked good then.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

OK I found a new 300 since I cracked mine at Winter on the Rocks in St George.

(Shifter is from a Dodge Stealth/ Mitsubishi 3000 GT.)

Here's a video of how it works with the new transfercase shifter I built for the Crawler today. (Mic makes my voice sound weird at first.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZzq-aU-_pE&sns=em
(Can somebody embed this youtube? I can't on my phone.)

 

[trail rate this]

nice video. I love how it works.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

That's anout were I quit yesterday. The blizzard was getting ridiculous...

 

[trail rate this]

What kit did you use? Did you upgrade any of the outputs?

I picked up 231 front half, so I hope to do the same soon.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

Box4rocks. Duffy is a stud: called him on his cell phone for help one Saturday. I'm just running 1310's at the case so I'm hoping they'll keep breaking before an output. I've had good luck so far though
Case seems to be the weak point anyways....

 

[vetteboy]

I'm just running 1310's at the case so I'm hoping they'll keep breaking before an output. I've had good luck so far though
Case seems to be the weak point anyways....

Good luck with that.

With 1310 drivelines, I have broken every part in my front 60 except the ring & pinion. That includes things like a Detroit, two 35-spline 4340 stubs, two Spicer 5-806x joints, etc. No 1310 casualties to date except for one that died due to lack of grease. And that's with only 4.56 in the axle.

The 231 housing is fine for the most part, the only time I've ever been able to crack those (3 total) is when I've pogo'd the front driveshaft into something. I have no additional bracing on the 300 and with several hundred miles of high-speed racing, and many other broken drivetrain parts, the 231 has held up pretty well.

The 300 case is stout also...surprisingly all my carnage mentioned before was achieved with stock outputs. I finally broke the front output in November but that's because the limit strap broke on that side, let it droop out too much, and bound the u-joint at the output. While I had it apart I did the 32-spline stuff all around...but I still got over 2 years on the stock outputs. I'm not worried about the actual housing.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

Well I hope I have the better luck with this one. In six months I blew up one 35 spline warn premium hub. One rear driveshaft slip yoke and 1310 joint. One front dshaft 1310 and yoke (they made my shaft too long and it bound at full bump, so tattons drivelines split the difference for a beefier forged yoke and slip) and cracked my case and lost the bearing on the front output. But I've been pretty hard on it I guess... looked like I needed a beefier belly pan or maybe it was a bad casting

 

[trail rate this]

Sounds like your really hard on it. I'd like to get the measurements off the doubler kits so I can make my own.

 

[JeepAddict85]

Good luck with that.

With 1310 drivelines, I have broken every part in my front 60 except the ring & pinion. That includes things like a Detroit, two 35-spline 4340 stubs, two Spicer 5-806x joints, etc. No 1310 casualties to date except for one that died due to lack of grease. And that's with only 4.56 in the axle.

The 231 housing is fine for the most part, the only time I've ever been able to crack those (3 total) is when I've pogo'd the front driveshaft into something. I have no additional bracing on the 300 and with several hundred miles of high-speed racing, and many other broken drivetrain parts, the 231 has held up pretty well.

The 300 case is stout also...surprisingly all my carnage mentioned before was achieved with stock outputs. I finally broke the front output in November but that's because the limit strap broke on that side, let it droop out too much, and bound the u-joint at the output. While I had it apart I did the 32-spline stuff all around...but I still got over 2 years on the stock outputs. I'm not worried about the actual housing.

shoulda got a klune :moon:

(ill probably break my 300 now on the test drive)