PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Got a couple of things from Novak. EVAP relocation kit and the 3/8" hose adapter for the brake booster
Projext "V8 XJ" Build
- Thread starter PhotoJared
- Start date
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
So the trans cooler I ordered is pretty big....lol
blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
So the trans cooler I ordered is pretty big....lol
That's slightly larger than the trans cooler I installed (though mine was a stack/plate, which should be more efficient than a fin type), and it's not quite enough under some conditions. I like to keep my trans around 70-80c when possible, and I shut it down if it hits 100c. I know that's a touch paranoid, but whatever.
When wheeling, up a long stretch of hill, in 2wd or 4h, the cooler (plus the cooler in my rad) just isn't quite enough and the temp will continue climbing.
I think it'd be more than sufficient if I could fit a secondary fan behind it, but right now it's relying entirely on the main rad fan (5400CFM), and it's just not quite enough for real heavy duty conditions.
If you haven't already, I'd suggest planning to stick a fan in just for your trans cooler.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
Instead of all that trans cooler & a separate fan, perhaps a more modestly sized trans cooler + a cooler installed in the radiator's lower tank?
Even full ton BBC / 4L80E trucks get away with less cooler from the factory and I haven't seen one with a dedicated fan yet. Just a thought.
Even full ton BBC / 4L80E trucks get away with less cooler from the factory and I haven't seen one with a dedicated fan yet. Just a thought.
blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
I know very little about auto's, but I definitely get some heat issues. May be due to the very cramped conditions under the hood.
I am using the cooler in my rad, as well as a 10x10" (ish) stacked plate cooler sitting 1/8" in front of my main rad, and it's not quite enough. This may also have a LOT to do with my exhaust being routed so damned close to the trans, but not much can be done about that (exhaust is actually touching the trans heat shield, and only about 1/4" from the frame rail).
That said, my trans temps may be totally acceptable. I know most guys say you can safely run them up to around 120c before having to worry about fluid longevity. I just try to keep mine below 100c because the pan and t-case mating surface start leaking above that temp (yes, easy fix, but I'm lazy and just want to wheel right now).
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
I'll still be running the factory in radiator cooler as well. Living in Vegas I'll take all the cooling I can get.
I will admit...it's a little big
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Really impressed with Summit and Speedway motors. Both orders are already here!
Stopped by Sears too. Got a 1/2" torque wrench.
Stopped by Sears too. Got a 1/2" torque wrench.
- Location
- WA state
Since you have room, I would install a fan on the Trans cooler. Maybe, use a fan controller/switch to turn it on/off?
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
I might do that. I may just wire the fan inline with the high on the Taurus fan. I figured if the coolant is getting hot enough for high the transmission could do with the fan on too.
AN lines on everything!!
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Trying to work out how to mount everything. There's not a whole lot of space and I don't think I want to block the end tank. I'm going to start by getting the radiator mounted. Then I'll worry about the cooler.
...or I could mount it ghetto style...
...or I could mount it ghetto style...
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blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
Trying to work out how to mount everything. There's not a whole lot of space and I don't think I want to block the end tank. I'm going to start by getting the radiator mounted. Then I'll worry about the cooler.
...or I could mount it ghetto style...
This is hilarious. That is exactly the radiator and trans cooler I have. The rad I foolishly bought from Griffin, with the shroud and fan, which cost an extra $500 for, and their fan is garbage (I think it's like 1800CFM). What a colossal waste of money, considering that radiator assembly was the single most expensive component in my swap. Had I just got a naked rad, I'd have had the swap completed for under $2000 :|.
You've got the exact same stack/plate trans cooler as well, but I found mine in a junk yard for $20, just sorta at random.
I can tell you with fair certainty that if you mount the trans cooler in front of the rad, or right where you have it pictured, your motor will definitely have no cooling issues, while the trans may struggle under extreme circumstances (unless there's just something wrong with my trans). I plan on moving mine exactly how yours is, so I can throw on a second fan behind it.
Make sure you block off the grill on the passenger side. Makes a massive difference in cooling.
I'm also interested to know if you need to cut out your hood to keep the underhood temps down. When I was up the mountain a few days ago, after 2 hours of hard wheeling, we got to the lookout around 10pm and I sat on the hood. Hood barely warm, but my hood vents were too hot to touch comfortably
. They're doing their job.
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PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
My hood already has hood vents installed so I think I'll be good on cooling. I'll still have to cut the hood for the intake, but I'll cross that bridge later.
Got my fuel pump!
Need to get the headers painted and installed so I can finally finish up with getting everything together.
I don't really have much left:
Paint and install headers
Figure out and Install oil temp sensor
Figure out and install coolant temp sensor
Install fuel pump
Send out harness and ecu
Install transmission to engine then transfer case to transmission
Figure out transmission mount
Figure out power steering lines (I have a hudroboost pump. I know I can cap one line and run the other to the power steering box, but it doesn't have a fitting)
In thinking of tuning out the EVAP and seeing if I can pass smog. If it doesn't work then I'll install the EVAP system.
Got my fuel pump!
Need to get the headers painted and installed so I can finally finish up with getting everything together.
I don't really have much left:
Paint and install headers
Figure out and Install oil temp sensor
Figure out and install coolant temp sensor
Install fuel pump
Send out harness and ecu
Install transmission to engine then transfer case to transmission
Figure out transmission mount
Figure out power steering lines (I have a hudroboost pump. I know I can cap one line and run the other to the power steering box, but it doesn't have a fitting)
In thinking of tuning out the EVAP and seeing if I can pass smog. If it doesn't work then I'll install the EVAP system.
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Does anyone have a Winters/Art Carr shifter? I can't seem to find posts in an XJ. I'd like to retain the stock console and just put the shifter on top of it. I need to take out the center console to see if it would actually fit because the cable for the trans comes out the back of the shifter rather than the front...
R.DesJardin
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Clarkston, WA
I have a few on the shelf. The Winters shifters are large and I wouldn't try to mount one to the stock console. I want the shifter moved back to allow easier reach to the shifter. The stock location is terrible.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
I don't know what the smog program in nevada is like but I really can't imagine they'd pass you without EVAP. Without EGR.. maybe if they just do a tailpipe test - maybe... but EVAP is pretty basic. I'd just hook it up to begin with.
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
In NV, I think we can have one monitor unchecked. So I'll install all O2 sensors and hope that it'll work. I'm obd2
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Finally got my scope in...rings are a little low for my eye. I'll try them out before I actually replace them.
Need to go get zero and get them leveled
Need to go get zero and get them leveled
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
So here's what I'm doing for the fuel tank. There'll be washers and some gaskets in between the nuts.
The punch is where the fuel pump module "cap" will sit. So I'm going to use the nut to tighten every thing down. I'll have two of these. One supply and one return. Hope it works!
In waiting to drop the fuel tank because I want to get the engine in the bay. To get the engine in i need to figure out oil ten and coolant temp sensors.
The punch is where the fuel pump module "cap" will sit. So I'm going to use the nut to tighten every thing down. I'll have two of these. One supply and one return. Hope it works!
In waiting to drop the fuel tank because I want to get the engine in the bay. To get the engine in i need to figure out oil ten and coolant temp sensors.
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Ordered some Autofab hood pins. This way I don't have to deal with the center hood latch.
http://autofab.com/i-9943227-autofab-hood-pin-kit-with-leash.html
http://autofab.com/i-9943227-autofab-hood-pin-kit-with-leash.html
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Yep so I need to get the engine, trans, and transfer case in the bay.
I realized I can't do much more without it in. I don't want to cut my AN lines because I may have to run them in different ways. I can't mount my radiator because I may have to adjust for clearance.
The only thing I can really do is the pedal, I'm going to start that tomorrow.
Just ordered a 3/8" NTP and 1/8" NTP taps and associated drill bits
I realized I can't do much more without it in. I don't want to cut my AN lines because I may have to run them in different ways. I can't mount my radiator because I may have to adjust for clearance.
The only thing I can really do is the pedal, I'm going to start that tomorrow.
Just ordered a 3/8" NTP and 1/8" NTP taps and associated drill bits
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