trail rate this
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cape Coral, FL
Great work.
This should be in Advanced Tech.
This should be in Advanced Tech.
Project Tech Snob
- Thread starter EndlessMtnFab
- Start date
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
There are those that put me to shame. My concern is that they are strong enough. Pretty welds are just a bonus for things like suspension, brackets etc.
Now bumpers on the other hand ...... :greensmok
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
Thanks Stump & TR ....
Wouldn't let me post it in there at the time. So here it is in Mod Tech. :compwork:
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I think now that you're a blue name you should be able to post it there, which means I'm pretty sure you can request to have it moved. I remember you being a black name back when you started it and going "why is this guy not a member?" :roll:
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
It came down to the money of it, in all seriousness.
Sponsoring 2-3 clubs (with little return) becomes costly.
Since I'm no longer doing that .... Here I am.
Joe
thenag
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Ut
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
Any 203 could technically work ... just have to decide the amount of work you want to do.
I chose the Dodge 203 because it already has the 23 spline input. However, I did need to drill/tap the round bolt pattern for the tranmission housing. The existing holes were permanently locked with a "special" Loctite (not your regular red loctite) and set screws. You will likely have to do the same thing with your Ford box.
Also needed to *slightly* shave the front input bearing retainer. It was a tiny bit too tall ... so I took something like .060 off the front face and the job was done !
It's not really going to be easy to clock that case. If you go too far to the right ... you'll hit the exhaust. If you go too far to the left .. you'll hit the driveshaft (assuming a driver side pumpkin). A partial rotatation would actually sit lower than a case hanging straight down.
Joe
I chose the Dodge 203 because it already has the 23 spline input. However, I did need to drill/tap the round bolt pattern for the tranmission housing. The existing holes were permanently locked with a "special" Loctite (not your regular red loctite) and set screws. You will likely have to do the same thing with your Ford box.
Also needed to *slightly* shave the front input bearing retainer. It was a tiny bit too tall ... so I took something like .060 off the front face and the job was done !
It's not really going to be easy to clock that case. If you go too far to the right ... you'll hit the exhaust. If you go too far to the left .. you'll hit the driveshaft (assuming a driver side pumpkin). A partial rotatation would actually sit lower than a case hanging straight down.
Joe
thenag
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Ut
Well the 203/205 is already together so I am hoping to get lucky with the clocking. The 203 is straight down right now, I am planing on keeping it that way, the 205 is driver drop and pretty low. The main reason we are going with the 203/205, we already have it, it will be much cheaper to buy a dodge input and make it work than get any other good t-case. Even if I have to buy a new adaptor plate to re-clock the setup it will cheaper than buying an atlas or building up a killer dana 300. And it hooks up to the driveshafts that hook up to the axles so a ton of misc yokes etc are already in place...
Sorry to hi-jack your thread I am just getting excited for my build... which is still a year away...
Thanks!
Nathan
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
Sorry folks ... it's been crazy here. Finally had some time to update this thread with actual progress. 
To prove I wasn't lying about removing the POR/Bedliner:
Shiny & Cleaned up !
When I was cleaning up ... I noticed the shock crossmember was showing signs of rusting through at one the ends. 42 spot welds later I had it out for replacement. That sucked. I was finding it impossible to remove all the crap on the multi-pocketed surfaces of the stupid thing anyhow. Let alone trying to remove the peeling POR/Bedliner inside the crossmember.
Boy .. this project sucks. :smsoap:
To prove I wasn't lying about removing the POR/Bedliner:
Shiny & Cleaned up !
When I was cleaning up ... I noticed the shock crossmember was showing signs of rusting through at one the ends. 42 spot welds later I had it out for replacement. That sucked. I was finding it impossible to remove all the crap on the multi-pocketed surfaces of the stupid thing anyhow. Let alone trying to remove the peeling POR/Bedliner inside the crossmember.
Boy .. this project sucks. :smsoap:
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
As you already know ... the undercarriage is pretty clean.
I coated the area where the crossmmeber sits with cold galvinizing compound (same stuff I used for the frame stiffeners).
After it dried .... I taped off the area where I would be doing the welding. That left the "middle" exposed for me to lay 2 coats of Zero Rust down (over the prepped Galvinizing compound). Followed by a single coat of tractor paint. I also scuffed the inside of the new crossmember and layed 2 coats of Zero Rust & 1 coat of Tractor paint.
Giving that a few days to dry (while I work on other junk) .... I sanded the edge of the crossmember and sanded away exess galvinizing compound (on the underbody). A quick wipedown preceeded welding everything up. I did not bother to spot weld it. It was easier for me to just weld the edges all the way around (skipping around, of course). The end result was minimal paint burning and peace of mind. The 2 dark spots you see were the only paint "burns" I had and most of it wiped off.
In the mean time ... I was also working on the access hole for the fuel filler hoses. Mine were rotted thru and I was planning to do them at a later date. But since I had to wait for the paint ... I decided to tackle it simultaneously.
Cut the welds and removed what was left of the old metal.
http://www.jeeprenegades.com/emf/NJJC/218.jpg
Took a block of wood and carved/shaped it to fit inside the hole.
Used the block as my template and bent some .090 sheetmetal around it. Thanks to " The Freeak " for donating metal to a good cause. :wave1:
I coated the area where the crossmmeber sits with cold galvinizing compound (same stuff I used for the frame stiffeners).
After it dried .... I taped off the area where I would be doing the welding. That left the "middle" exposed for me to lay 2 coats of Zero Rust down (over the prepped Galvinizing compound). Followed by a single coat of tractor paint. I also scuffed the inside of the new crossmember and layed 2 coats of Zero Rust & 1 coat of Tractor paint.
Giving that a few days to dry (while I work on other junk) .... I sanded the edge of the crossmember and sanded away exess galvinizing compound (on the underbody). A quick wipedown preceeded welding everything up. I did not bother to spot weld it. It was easier for me to just weld the edges all the way around (skipping around, of course). The end result was minimal paint burning and peace of mind. The 2 dark spots you see were the only paint "burns" I had and most of it wiped off.
In the mean time ... I was also working on the access hole for the fuel filler hoses. Mine were rotted thru and I was planning to do them at a later date. But since I had to wait for the paint ... I decided to tackle it simultaneously.
Cut the welds and removed what was left of the old metal.
Took a block of wood and carved/shaped it to fit inside the hole.
Used the block as my template and bent some .090 sheetmetal around it. Thanks to " The Freeak " for donating metal to a good cause. :wave1:
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
Cut the template in half to make sure it was a TIGHT fit inside the bore. One half shown below.
And welded the 2 halves together (TIG) followed by welding to the frame rail on both sides of the rail.
And welded the 2 halves together (TIG) followed by welding to the frame rail on both sides of the rail.
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
Ever wonder what it looks like without the rear shackle mounts ?
That rust looks a *lot* worse that it was. 45 seconds with a scuff pad (on a grinder) had it shining. Was surprised and pleased with that.
Other side ...
Note on that last picture ....
You can't see it from this angle ... but I have VERY thin sheetmetal that I managed to poke thru with just a dental pick. :tears::tears::tears::tears:
For now ... I'm going to just slather it with Zero Rust and try to block off the rust holes. I have had it with sheetmetal work and will have a body shop do it for me. Either that ... or I will wait until summer and make it a weekend day project when I have nothing better to do. <shaking head>
That rust looks a *lot* worse that it was. 45 seconds with a scuff pad (on a grinder) had it shining. Was surprised and pleased with that.
Other side ...
Note on that last picture ....
You can't see it from this angle ... but I have VERY thin sheetmetal that I managed to poke thru with just a dental pick. :tears::tears::tears::tears:
For now ... I'm going to just slather it with Zero Rust and try to block off the rust holes. I have had it with sheetmetal work and will have a body shop do it for me. Either that ... or I will wait until summer and make it a weekend day project when I have nothing better to do. <shaking head>
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
Awesome project dude! What are your plans for shackle mounts? How much did the replacement rear shock crossmember run you? I have been wanting to design some kind of belcrank arrangement and mount the shocks horizontally along the frame rail.
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
What shackle mounts? We're running coils now.
I think the replacement crossmember came to $225 from the dealer. Not cheap .... but if you factor in the time/aggravation/etc trying to save the old one, I think I came out ahead. Could I have fabbed one? Yes ... but again, it's a lot of time that I was able to spend elsewhere as the paint was drying.
How much travel are you wanting that you need a bellcrank setup? I haven't really thought about it too much, but off the top of my head, I would think you'd run into the "issue" of dampening vs. travel. Kind of like how inboarding the shocks further gives you more travel at the expense of shock effectiveness. May not be the case ... but I'm not really in the position to think at the moment.
Joe
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
I am wanting to do a belcrank more to retain travel without having to mount the shocks inside the cargo area. 12-14" of travel is more than I need.
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
10 inch travel can be done on the outside of the frame rail. So can 12 *if* you pick the right kind of shock.
Joe
Joe
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
I'll pick your brain about that when I can afford the shocks, thanks.
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
I'm sure someone is wondering why I might have gone through the bother of removing the rear shackle mounts. Let me assure you, it wasn't a cosmetic need. :jester:
Mainly .... I was wanting to increase structural rigidity in the back of the Jeep. It's well documented why a stiff frame rail is desireable -- so I won't bore anyone with those particular details. However, I also had other ideas in mind. I wanted stronger mounting points for towing. Additionally, I wanted a solid platform for a rollcage mount and/or bumper brace (for the wings under the quarter panels). And the last thing ... was a good mounting spot for my rear shocks on the outsides of the frame rails.
So out comes the wire wheel and scotch-brite pads! Removed the paint from the rear crossmember up to the rear coil mounts. Coated with the zinc compound again. Getting tired of that stuff too.:rattle:
Cleaned up a few pieces of 1/8 steel and bent them into some weird convoluted shape.
\
The swiss chees effect is for additional welding surface area. I also incorporated new bumper nuts into the assembly. The old rivet nuts were started to distort and I used it as an opportunity to upgrade to 7/16 hardware. The factory strip nuts (for gas tank/hitch) was retained and accounted for on the bottom sides of the brackets. Despite being a 12 mm nut (as opposed to the aftermarket 1/2 variety) I prefer the factory plates because they offer 5 points of attachment instead of the usual 4.
Mainly .... I was wanting to increase structural rigidity in the back of the Jeep. It's well documented why a stiff frame rail is desireable -- so I won't bore anyone with those particular details. However, I also had other ideas in mind. I wanted stronger mounting points for towing. Additionally, I wanted a solid platform for a rollcage mount and/or bumper brace (for the wings under the quarter panels). And the last thing ... was a good mounting spot for my rear shocks on the outsides of the frame rails.
So out comes the wire wheel and scotch-brite pads! Removed the paint from the rear crossmember up to the rear coil mounts. Coated with the zinc compound again. Getting tired of that stuff too.:rattle:
Cleaned up a few pieces of 1/8 steel and bent them into some weird convoluted shape.
\
The swiss chees effect is for additional welding surface area. I also incorporated new bumper nuts into the assembly. The old rivet nuts were started to distort and I used it as an opportunity to upgrade to 7/16 hardware. The factory strip nuts (for gas tank/hitch) was retained and accounted for on the bottom sides of the brackets. Despite being a 12 mm nut (as opposed to the aftermarket 1/2 variety) I prefer the factory plates because they offer 5 points of attachment instead of the usual 4.
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
Before welding the brackets on (and before zinc primed them too) I took the time to weld the tabs where the frame rail & rear crossmember meet. I'm basically referring to the pieces where the mounting nuts used to be for the bumpers on the back side of th erear crossmember. My welds were good enough not to show you, so don't ask. :anon: Was in a rush and just did some quick vertical down with the TIG (standing up, obviously). It's strong and secure ... just a bit ugly.
Here are the brackets welded (some fully welded, some partially welded) :
Also made some short inside pieces for the inside bumper bolts and a little extra crossmember strength.
Here is a quick underside shot of the passenger side rail:
Here are the brackets welded (some fully welded, some partially welded) :
Also made some short inside pieces for the inside bumper bolts and a little extra crossmember strength.
Here is a quick underside shot of the passenger side rail:
Last edited:
jeffhaut
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- British Columbia
so you obviously arent a believer in folding the lower rear 1/4's up. due to rigity concerns?
love your work Joe
love your work Joe
