Project Downward Spiral

I'd do it. I'd back it up with 14ga with 1/2"x1/2"x1/8" angle welded to the back, personally, but that might be overkill.
 
I'd do it. I'd back it up with 14ga with 1/2"x1/2"x1/8" angle welded to the back, personally, but that might be overkill.
There will be a "subframe" structure behind it similar to this (vetteboy's):
DSC01139.JPG


My rear crossmember isn't removable, but you get the idea.

I'm doing the UHMW either way, that isn't the question. I'm just debating the thickness to use.

I'm going down to lay under it and think. :)
 
my boatsides are 16ga. they're dented, but still functional.

backing 3/8" slippery cutting boards with 14ga ought to do just fine...
 
My Atlas with the normal clocking options hangs down below the frame a little, even clocked all the way up. Does yours have the 'flat' clocking options?
 
My Atlas with the normal clocking options hangs down below the frame a little, even clocked all the way up. Does yours have the 'flat' clocking options?

Bill dont got a atlas yet, unless he steals mine, not to hyjack bills thread but do you got pics of yo atlas installed? thanks
 
my boatsides are 16ga. they're dented, but still functional.

backing 3/8" slippery cutting boards with 14ga ought to do just fine...
3/8" it is. Just waiting on a call back about delivery vs pickup.
My Atlas with the normal clocking options hangs down below the frame a little, even clocked all the way up. Does yours have the 'flat' clocking options?
No, my NP231 does not. :(
The plan is to leave enough room so that if I do end up with a different case later down the road I'll be able to use it without modifying the pan.
Due to the NP231 hanging down a little bit I won't have a perfectly level belly. It will slope up as it heads towards the rear. I don't think this will be a big deal. It'll be flat, just sloped.
Bill dont got a atlas yet, unless he steals mine
Good plan! ;)
not to hyjack bills thread but do you got pics of yo atlas installed? thanks
I'd be interested as well seeing as I want to leave the clearance for it.
 
So Colin came up tonight and we were making great progress getting things put together until the rear Yukon 4340 35 spline shafts went in. :mad:
The counterbore on the inside of the flange is machined incorrectly and it is not deep enough. This causes it to hit the end of the spindle and bind the whole setup. I know this is the issue because we put a little bit of marking compound on the end of the spindle and upon seating the flange against the hub the compound transfer can be seen on the inside of the flange.

I guess that is what I get for buying something from India and not a USA made product. :rolleyes:

Lesson learned there. Looks like I'll have to make a ~1/8" spacer to put between the hub and the shaft to make everything clear.
 
Last edited:
That sucks Bill! Altought i will slightly snicker at you buying Yukon's :D


Ps - Im angry I havent seen knuckles pics

Pps- Im also angry Colin didnt invite me :(
 
That sucks Bill! Altought i will slightly snicker at you buying Yukon's :D
Last time I ever buy a product that isn't made in the USA (assuming a USA made counterpart is offered). This is just annoying more than anything. They were pretty much the only option for rear 35spline 4340 shafts unless I dropped big coin. I guess I should have.
Ps - Im angry I havent seen knuckles pics
Nothing really to see. Plus I haven't taken any yet.
Pps- Im also angry Colin didnt invite me :(
Last minute thing, he came straight from work.
 
They were pretty much the only option for rear 35spline 4340 shafts unless I dropped big coin. I guess I should have.


I expect nothing less then double splined 300M shafts with pimp flanges. Anything less cant hang out with the RCV's :D
 
I expect nothing less then double splined 300M shafts with pimp flanges. Anything less cant hang out with the RCV's :D
I was trying to same some money. There is a HUGE cost difference between the two.

Like I mentioned, it isn't the biggest problem and it can be fixed with a spacer between the hub and the flange on the shaft. It is just frustrating and annoying that I even have to do such a thing.
 
So Colin came up tonight and we were making great progress getting things put together until the rear Yukon 4340 35 spline shafts went in. :mad:
The counterbore on the inside of the flange is machined incorrectly and it is not deep enough. This causes it to hit the end of the spindle and bind the whole setup. I know this is the issue because we put a little bit of marking compound on the end of the spindle and upon seating the flange against the hub the compound transfer can be seen on the inside of the flange.

I guess that is what I get for buying something from India and not a USA made product. :rolleyes:

Lesson learned there. Looks like I'll have to make a ~1/8" spacer to put between the hub and the shaft to make everything clear.

That was retarded. Spacer should solve it though if Yukon wants to be a bunch of tards.

That sucks Bill! Altought i will slightly snicker at you buying Yukon's :D


Ps - Im angry I havent seen knuckles pics

Pps- Im also angry Colin didnt invite me :(

Sorry dude, as Bill said, wasn't really planned.

I expect nothing less then double splined 300M shafts with pimp flanges. Anything less cant hang out with the RCV's :D

That would be BAD***

should of done a 70

^ My plan
 
Back
Top