Project Downward Spiral

Bill did you not remember our conversation a while ago where I showed you that sweet and expensive tube bender, and you told me to come bend your hardlines for you?

Because I'll do it, and I'll get it done for under $200.

Also, why do you need 4 flex lines for control arms, and 2 T's?
 
You guys have lists and add up how much money you spend? Multiplie lists?!?! :dunno:
You'll understand soon when you start spending money on yours.
Bill did you not remember our conversation a while ago where I showed you that sweet and expensive tube bender, and you told me to come bend your hardlines for you?

Because I'll do it, and I'll get it done for under $200.

Also, why do you need 4 flex lines for control arms, and 2 T's?
I didn't until this post.
2 lines per axle, one at each end of one of the uppers. 1 'T' per axle.
At this point I'm pretty much set against hardlines anyway. The more I read about the flex stuff, the more I want to use it.
 
You'll understand soon when you start spending money on yours.

Im still in the "i can do this with a cheap budget" denial stage of my build.



I have not progressed to full blown "i wanna sell a kidney to be able to afford parts" builders anonymous stage yet.
 
Im still in the "i can do this with a cheap budget" denial stage of my build.



I have not progressed to full blown "i wanna sell a kidney to be able to afford parts" builders anonymous stage yet.

:roflmao::roflmao::laugh2::laugh2::roflmao::laugh::laugh:

thats great. if you do go with the flex tube stuff let us know how it ends up feeling, meaning spongey or firm.
 
Im still in the "i can do this with a cheap budget" denial stage of my build.



I have not progressed to full blown "i wanna sell a kidney to be able to afford parts" builders anonymous stage yet.
:roflmao: best quote ever.

Bill - yeah, the only thing I've had done by a "pro" on my XJ since I bought it was a windshield and my drivers door window, both because I am being royally reamed by my insurance company and have glass coverage with no deductible, so why not get something for my money? A good number of my friends are the "I have no idea how to fix that, don't want to learn, and feel like bending over instead" mindset when it comes to car/home repair, so I get flak about DIYing things all the time.
 
Hardline:
4x Flex lines for control arms (2 per axle) @ $14.95ea = $59.80
2x Lines for front calipers (I have rear) @ $23.95ea = $47.90
2x Fittings $5.95/pack = $11.90
2x 25ft 3/16" PolyArmor Hard Brake Line (more than I need, but I like extra laying around) @ 19.99ea = $39.98
1x Half-Decent cheap tube bender = $19.95
2x Axle 'T' = $21.95ea = $43.90
Estimate cost for using hardline: $217.43

You need a cheaper parts store, and a master brake parts catalog. Some suggestions:

1) Split the rear lines at the rear crossmember and run them down the top of the lower links. Use a 1985 Plymouth Reliant K rear brake hose for the soft lines (8.25" of rubber hose, standard 3/8" flare at each end, less than $10 each). Use one per side from the crossmember to the links, hardline down the top of the links, and then a 1985 Chevy Chevette rear brake hose from the hardline to the calipers ($15.95, 15" long). Nothing mounted to the axle, and the rear is done for less than $60 with easily serviceable parts that are common at any parts store in the country. Less if the rear lines you've got already will work this way.

(I forget if you're running cutting brakes or not, but running the plumbing this way makes them an easy addition if you don't have them already)

2) Use the same Reliant K hose from a hardline to the upper link in the front, small length of hardline on the link, a 1982 Dodge W250 center front brake hose from the hardline down to the axle ($20 and solves the flex line and axle T in one shot). Hardlines from the T out towards each caliper, then use the softlines of your choice (mine are from the same truck, $18 each). Again, readily-available parts and you're into the front axle for less than $80.

3) I bought one 25' foot coil to do my whole XJ, have re-done some lines since then, and still have a bunch left.

4) Going through RockAuto instead of Napa to do the layout as above, the Reliant K hoses are $5 each, the front center Dodge hose is $13, left and right caliper lines are $10. So that bumps the price down to ~$50 for the rear and ~$60 for the front.

I haven't had any problems with this arrangement in two and a half years, but it's nice to know that if I ever do have an issue, it's easily solved with standard auto store parts instead of some specialty fittings. :)
 
You need a cheaper parts store, and a master brake parts catalog. Some suggestions:

1) Split the rear lines at the rear crossmember and run them down the top of the lower links. Use a 1985 Plymouth Reliant K rear brake hose for the soft lines (8.25" of rubber hose, standard 3/8" flare at each end, less than $10 each). Use one per side from the crossmember to the links, hardline down the top of the links, and then a 1985 Chevy Chevette rear brake hose from the hardline to the calipers ($15.95, 15" long). Nothing mounted to the axle, and the rear is done for less than $60 with easily serviceable parts that are common at any parts store in the country. Less if the rear lines you've got already will work this way.

(I forget if you're running cutting brakes or not, but running the plumbing this way makes them an easy addition if you don't have them already)

2) Use the same Reliant K hose from a hardline to the upper link in the front, small length of hardline on the link, a 1982 Dodge W250 center front brake hose from the hardline down to the axle ($20 and solves the flex line and axle T in one shot). Hardlines from the T out towards each caliper, then use the softlines of your choice (mine are from the same truck, $18 each). Again, readily-available parts and you're into the front axle for less than $80.

3) I bought one 25' foot coil to do my whole XJ, have re-done some lines since then, and still have a bunch left.

4) Going through RockAuto instead of Napa to do the layout as above, the Reliant K hoses are $5 each, the front center Dodge hose is $13, left and right caliper lines are $10. So that bumps the price down to ~$50 for the rear and ~$60 for the front.

I haven't had any problems with this arrangement in two and a half years, but it's nice to know that if I ever do have an issue, it's easily solved with standard auto store parts instead of some specialty fittings. :)

He just peanut butter smacked your braided line idea.

Go buy all this crap Bill.
 
Nice. Take THAT Mr. I-like-extra-silly-crap-for-no-good-reason!!!!!!!
 
You need a cheaper parts store, and a master brake parts catalog. Some suggestions:

1) Split the rear lines at the rear crossmember and run them down the top of the lower links. Use a 1985 Plymouth Reliant K rear brake hose for the soft lines (8.25" of rubber hose, standard 3/8" flare at each end, less than $10 each). Use one per side from the crossmember to the links, hardline down the top of the links, and then a 1985 Chevy Chevette rear brake hose from the hardline to the calipers ($15.95, 15" long). Nothing mounted to the axle, and the rear is done for less than $60 with easily serviceable parts that are common at any parts store in the country. Less if the rear lines you've got already will work this way.

(I forget if you're running cutting brakes or not, but running the plumbing this way makes them an easy addition if you don't have them already)

2) Use the same Reliant K hose from a hardline to the upper link in the front, small length of hardline on the link, a 1982 Dodge W250 center front brake hose from the hardline down to the axle ($20 and solves the flex line and axle T in one shot). Hardlines from the T out towards each caliper, then use the softlines of your choice (mine are from the same truck, $18 each). Again, readily-available parts and you're into the front axle for less than $80.

3) I bought one 25' foot coil to do my whole XJ, have re-done some lines since then, and still have a bunch left.

4) Going through RockAuto instead of Napa to do the layout as above, the Reliant K hoses are $5 each, the front center Dodge hose is $13, left and right caliper lines are $10. So that bumps the price down to ~$50 for the rear and ~$60 for the front.

I haven't had any problems with this arrangement in two and a half years, but it's nice to know that if I ever do have an issue, it's easily solved with standard auto store parts instead of some specialty fittings. :)
Excellent! Huge help! Thanks!
You just saved me a ton of cash and easy to find parts. My only question; is that Chevy Chevette brake hose you talked about supposed to be front or rear? You mentioned rear and linked the front. Napa and RockAuto didn't list the lengths of either. No big deal, I can probably figure it out with a quick phone call.

The lines I've already got for the rear I can probably just use up front as they are only ~9" or so long. If I do that the total is under $70 shipped for the lines. I'll grab a bender, fittings, some hard line, fab some tabs to hold the line on the axle and be set for half of what I expected.

No cutting brakes for now. When the rear spool (no, not welded junk) gets swapped out later on for something else they'll probably go in. This was supposed to be a budget project. :sure:
 
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Chevette front hose was correct...only had one cup of coffee at the time. :)

The link I posted to Napa does have the length shown as 14.75".

Here's a photo of the chevette hose, obviously your implementation will be slightly different but just imagine the soft line passing over the axle to the top of the lower link, and that's how mine is set up.

2009_0530009.jpg


The front can be difficult as you need the lines to be long enough to reach the caliper at full lock steering. In this picture you can see mine at the bottom...the Dodge line has that rectangular plate with a hole in it; I just welded a bolt to the axle to mount the plate.

n24800499_33132854_8291.jpg
 
He just peanut butter smacked your braided line idea.

Go buy all this crap Bill.

BAM!!! I agree, vetteboy has spoken and now you must do it.



the rear spool (no, not welded junk). This was supposed to be a budget project.

Got a problem with Miller Lockers?!?! Haha, Bill said the word budget:D





I like vetteboy's idea of splitting the rear lines at the top of the links, running the lines down them, and just a flex line at the end to the calipers. Too bad i wont be running links in the rear yet:( the front setup is sweet to and ill now be doing that for mine.
 
Chevette front hose was correct...only had one cup of coffee at the time. :)

The link I posted to Napa does have the length shown as 14.75".

Here's a photo of the chevette hose, obviously your implementation will be slightly different but just imagine the soft line passing over the axle to the top of the lower link, and that's how mine is set up.

[pic removed]
Ahh, I didn't see that dimension the first time. Yup, I can envision that. :)
The front can be difficult as you need the lines to be long enough to reach the caliper at full lock steering. In this picture you can see mine at the bottom...the Dodge line has that rectangular plate with a hole in it; I just welded a bolt to the axle to mount the plate.

[pic removed]
Yup, I found those as well. I'll have to check the other lines I've got and see if they'll be long enough. If not, its not the end of the world, RockAuto has the same ones you've got for ~$14.

BAM!!! I agree, vetteboy has spoken and now you must do it.
He did all the work for me of tracking down the parts so I will be doing it.
Is that a pic of yours?! I might have to come out and replace that hardline while you aren't watching :twak: :spin1:
No, that isn't his setup.
 
thanks for the tips vetteboy i think ill run those lines too but ill be cooler then bill with cutting brakes:D
 
thanks for the tips vetteboy i think ill run those lines too but ill be cooler then bill with cutting brakes:D
You'll probably be cooler than me and not have $@%#ed up spindles too. :(

The spindles have been covered in grease and wrapped with tape since I pulled them off. Tonight when I cleaned one up good to start working out the steering and fender clearances I noticed this:
RuinedSpindle.jpg

I guess I know why the inner wheel bearings were toast now. :smsoap:
I can spin the entire bearing by hand, not good. Looks like I'll be shopping for spindles now too. Darn it.
I'll use them for mockup now, I'm going back down to work. I only came up to get an idea of what used ones are going for and what new ones cost.
 
that sucks bill, only if 10.25 spindles would work id give you em
 
I blew up a stock 60 stub and it turned one of my spindles into an oval.

Got a new one from Doug at Extreme Axle Sales, don't remember the exact number but it was pretty reasonable.
 
bill was that the frt or rear 60
Front. I checked the rear out when I was boring them, they are perfect.
I blew up a stock 60 stub and it turned one of my spindles into an oval.

Got a new one from Doug at Extreme Axle Sales, don't remember the exact number but it was pretty reasonable.
I've used Doug in the past for parts, he's a good guy. I'll have to start calling around when I get a little bit of cash.
 
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