Project Downward Spiral

[5spd_xj]

I'll take some pictures later and post them up.

Dude, it's been 15 hours since this promise. And it's now 5am EST and I'm STILL waiting.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

i stayed up waiting for the update WTF Bill

 

[foxwar71]

Come on Bill!!

I'll take some pictures later and post them up.

Typical presidentail statements that arent followed thru

 

[RCman]

No more computer. GET IN THE GARAGE!! I might be wanting to do a cage before NACfest so your junk needs to be done well before May

i dont want to wait till later for pics, i want em now, unless your workin on the jeep, then its ok to wait for pics

I was already back down when these where posted.

Dude, it's been 15 hours since this promise. And it's now 5am EST and I'm STILL waiting.

i stayed up waiting for the update WTF Bill

Come on Bill!!

Ok Already...

Typical presidentail statements that arent followed thru

:rof:

A lot of stuff has been done, but not much to show for picture wise. Today I spent most of the day wiring in a sub panel for my garage so I could finally get some more 20A 110V outlets and another 30A 220V for my welder. Aside from that the rockers are in, welded, and painted. B-Pillar to lower control arm tubes are in and welded. Rear fender lower bars are bent, in, welded, and painted. Underside is completely stripped and repainted.

Here's the pictures:
Plates to seal the hole in the floor around the middle B-Pillar bars. These are not structural, all they do is seal the hole. The tube actually runs through them and ties into the top of the rear LCA (which can be seen in the 3rd picture).

Then stripped the remaining paint the was left from the original factory stuff. Masked everything off and shot some paint. The fenders, rails, and underside were all done. Six cans of Rustoleum Hammered Black.

Shot of the underside looking back. Here you can see the B-Pillar tubes that hit the top of the rear LCA mounts as well as the additional backers that I dimpled and put on the back of the bumpstop mounts (I had posted about these before, just never put up pictures).

Here's the driver's side rocker all painted up.

Once the black was dry enough to work around I got the lower rear fender bars in place. I forgot to shoot a picture before I masked them off again to hit the welded ends with red paint, I'll get one later, but you get the idea for now.

Shot of the completed back still masked up. I want to add some lights where the two fender bars meet in the back, but I want to get it driveable first. Those I can always do later.

I also shot what was left to paint of the red on the roof. Basically everything is done on the rear and underside minus whatever I'm going to do for a bellypan/skid. Tomorrow the plan is to get working on the front again.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

as always awsome work bill

 

[5spd_xj]

:thumbup: cool. I'm always sad when I get to the end of your pictures :laugh3:

 

[Seiler]

:thumbup: cool. I'm always sad when I get to the end of your pictures :laugh3:

X2. Lookin' really good Bill!

Scott

 

[foxwar71]

YEPPIE, Bill did work!!!!


When are WE gunna regear the front?

 

[RCman]

:thumbup: cool. I'm always sad when I get to the end of your pictures :laugh3:

X2. Lookin' really good Bill!

Scott

Thanks guys.

YEPPIE, Bill did work!!!!


When are WE gunna regear the front?

I'm assuming you want to learn or something? I'm fine on my own.
After the steering is all set and I pull it out for final welding I'll be gearing it.


Progress today: Delayed with snow. While it was still snowing in the morning I ripped out the rest of the brake and fuel lines. The brake lines were shot so I've got nothing left of the brake system except for the Booster and MC. I don't mind bending some hardline for the axles themselves, but I do not want to be bending the hardline for the entire Jeep. I'm thinking off using this stuff; Russell Teflon® Lined Powerflex Hose, Russell -3AN Hose Ends, and Russell Brake Adapter fittings (1) (2). I know it is much more expensive (at least the fittings are) than the hard line stuff (and I'm already complaining about not having any cash), but I think for the little bit extra it'll be worth it. Anyone use the stuff before?

I also removed the power steering box, painted some parts, prepped the front for the front unirail stiffeners, and put the front axle back underneath to figure out upper limit strap mounts and lower shock mounts.
I was planning on doing the final assembly on my rear axle, but the bearings I thought were good really aren't so I'll be ordering up some new ones. Oh well.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

why not run 1 line to your front axle and 1 to the rear, and have a "t" on ech housing, seems simpiler, and run them down the top of a control arm that way you dont have to worry bout lenth

 

[foxwar71]

I'm assuming you want to learn or something? I'm fine on my own.
After the steering is all set and I pull it out for final welding I'll be gearing it.


I don't mind bending some hardline for the axles themselves, but I do not want to be bending the hardline for the entire Jeep. I know it is much more expensive (at least the fittings are) than the hard line stuff (and I'm already complaining about not having any cash), but I think for the little bit extra it'll be worth it.

Gotta get some practice on another HP60 before i do mine plus i wanna come to your house and drink some good beer:thumbup:


I'd just run all new hard lines. I dont really see the advantage in upgrading. Run some hardlines like behind the boatsides and other cool places outta the way from harm. We all know you have NO cash left anyways. just do some of those cool bendy lines at flex spots at the control arms like Rob said.

 

[Dundy]

Yah, bending lines are not very difficult. I'd just bend some new ones. You'll save like $100 and you won't have to worry about having all those adapters in the system. More unions mean more possible places for it to leak. Also, if you break a line you can kink the hard line to hold pressure and you won't have to spend more unnecessary money on a new fancy line.

 

[RCman]

why not run 1 line to your front axle and 1 to the rear, and have a "t" on ech housing, seems simpiler, and run them down the top of a control arm that way you dont have to worry bout lenth

Good idea. I was planning on one line to the rear and down the control arms for both axles anyway.

Gotta get some practice on another HP60 before i do mine plus i wanna come to your house and drink some good beer:thumbup:

Eh, we both know yours is awhile out still. I'll show/help you do it when the time comes.
Colin's had the latest new brews... they are mighty good.

Yah, bending lines are not very difficult. I'd just bend some new ones. You'll save like $100 and you won't have to worry about having all those adapters in the system. More unions mean more possible places for it to leak. Also, if you break a line you can kink the hard line to hold pressure and you won't have to spend more unnecessary money on a new fancy line.

Oh, I know it isn't all that hard I just don't like doing it.

I guess I will type out my reasoning behind just going to all braided line.

Hardline:
4x Flex lines for control arms (2 per axle) @ $14.95ea = $59.80
2x Lines for front calipers (I have rear) @ $23.95ea = $47.90
2x Fittings $5.95/pack = $11.90
2x 25ft 3/16" PolyArmor Hard Brake Line (more than I need, but I like extra laying around) @ 19.99ea = $39.98
1x Half-Decent cheap tube bender = $19.95
2x Axle 'T' = $21.95ea = $43.90
Estimate cost for using hardline: $217.43

PowerFlex Line:
1x 50ft -3AN Powerflex Line = $93.95
12x Hose Ends @ $10.88ea (2 @ MC, 3 @ ea axle 'T', 1 @ ea brake) = $130.56
2x Banjo Ends (front only, have rear) @ $6.95ea = $13.90
2x Axle 'T' @ 13.95ea = $27.90
Estimate cost for using Russell Powerflex Line: $266.31

Thanks a bunch for making me add that up Adam, now I'm really wishing that there was at least something that was useable from the old brake system.
As you can see it really isn't much more cost (<$50) to make running all the lines that much easier and neater.

On another note the bearing I need for the rear are going to be ~ $60.

Gosh darn this spending never ends...

 

[5spd_xj]

my vote is for whatever gets done more quickly.

 

[kastein]

You don't need a bender for brake lines, you've got thumbs :spin1:

I have to intentionally try to kink brake line to do so. I have a bender but it kinda sucks.

 

[xjbump]

I never add the price of a tool because its not really exclusive to the XJ. You just add it to your collection of tools and its there for later. Yeah you need to buy it now but you could borrow or whatever. I went just built all new hardlines on my Jeep but I'll eventually upgrade. I already had the line and didnt feel like spending anymore time or money.

 

[RCman]

I never add the price of a tool because its not really exclusive to the XJ. You just add it to your collection of tools and its there for later. Yeah you need to buy it now but you could borrow or whatever. I went just built all new hardlines on my Jeep but I'll eventually upgrade. I already had the line and didnt feel like spending anymore time or money.

I usually never add tools either. However at this point in the game I almost have to when comparing costs. Stuff like my chop saw, welder, flap wheels, electricity, the lights I put in, etc never gets added in.

I have a crappy little brake line tube bender but I wouldn't want to do a whole vehicle with it. I could borrow one, but I am most likely going to go with the Powerflex line. We'll see in a few weeks when I actually have the cash to buy something. :sad1:

 

[kastein]

I usually never add tools either. However at this point in the game I almost have to when comparing costs. Stuff like my chop saw, welder, flap wheels, electricity, the lights I put in, etc never gets added in.

I have a crappy little brake line tube bender but I wouldn't want to do a whole vehicle with it. I could borrow one, but I am most likely going to go with the Powerflex line. We'll see in a few weeks when I actually have the cash to buy something. :sad1:

I usually put stuff like flap wheels, cutoff discs, sawblades etc on the cost list because they're consumables, but I fully agree on tools. I put tools on the list under two circumstances - when I'm trying to make sure I'll be able to pay rent+bills, and when one of my friends tells me I'm stupid for doing work myself and should have paid the dealership to do it. Great to be able to say "this cost me 25% less than having the dealer do it, I have x amount of essentially free tools, AND I learned something" when someone tells me that.

 

[RCman]

I usually put stuff like flap wheels, cutoff discs, sawblades etc on the cost list because they're consumables, but I fully agree on tools.

If I was a shop or having someone pay me for work I'd put them on the list, but I'm not. I don't want to count the number of cutoff and flap wheels I've gone through. Good thing they are cheap when you buy in bulk.

I put tools on the list under two circumstances - when I'm trying to make sure I'll be able to pay rent+bills, and when one of my friends tells me I'm stupid for doing work myself and should have paid the dealership to do it. Great to be able to say "this cost me 25% less than having the dealer do it, I have x amount of essentially free tools, AND I learned something" when someone tells me that.

I never have anyone touch my vehicles. Everything is done myself with exception of a recall that was on my truck.

 

[foxwar71]

You guys have lists and add up how much money you spend? Multiplie lists?!?! :dunno: