Project Downward Spiral

sweet work man. i envy your skills
Eh, anyone can do what I'm doing I'm just learning as I go.
Sweet work as always Bill.

:thumbup:
Thanks!
What is the damn obsession with throwing away ground clearance when you do boatsides? Top of the framerail, dammit!
I don't know, I never thought of what I'm doing as "boatsides". :dunno:
Either way, there was no good way to tie in the rocker without going into the floor structure to much and opening up a whole 'nother mess. At that point I might was well have cut it all off at the firewall, but I want something that kinda sorta looks like an XJ. Going down to the unirail like I did I seemed like the best way to do it. Sure, I could have cut a lot higher and rebuilt it all, but I'd like for the doors to go back on.
If you've got a better way for me to tie in the rockers, let me hear it. Honestly, I wouldn't mind re-doing it if you've got something better. Seriously, I'm all ears.
 
What is the damn obsession with throwing away ground clearance when you do boatsides? Top of the framerail, dammit!

Maintaining an intact floor was the main issue I ran into. I would rather loose 2'' of clearance right next to the frame rail and keep a semi normal floor, than move them up 1'' and have to redo the entire floor.
 
Maintaining an intact floor was the main issue I ran into. I would rather loose 2'' of clearance right next to the frame rail and keep a semi normal floor, than move them up 1'' and have to redo the entire floor.
Exactly what I was trying to get across. I guess I don't see that as a "prime clearance area". I know clearance is clearance, but at some point I'd be better off building an all out buggy rather than using an XJ carcass. Sure if I dropped the rockers down I'd have to agree, but I guess I'm not seeing a better way without major floor mods.

While I'd hate to redo all my work, I'm hoping Phil has a neat idea to share that you and I might have overlooked. :)
 
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How many legs does a dog have if you call his tail a leg?























Four, just because you call his tail a leg doesn't mean it's a leg.



If you cared about wheeling, you wouldn't have spent three years building your pile. So tie your rockers in to the top of your framerail and save 3-4" of clearance in the center of your car.
 
Some of us have jobs and multiple hobbies.

To avoid derailing this too far... Bill, what's left to finish? Looks to me like:
* finish rockers (UHMW, etc, like you said)
* get the axles under it (as I recall they were ready to bolt up)
* set up the arms and driveshafts, install coilovers
* brake lines and interior + random small stuff
* make it pass the salvage vehicle title inspection (:roflmao:)

If you need a hand at any point*, I'm usually wasting time evenings... I know a few others are too.

* translation: we will stand around and drink beer while you work on the XJ :anon:
 
If you cared about wheeling, you wouldn't have spent three years building your pile. So tie your rockers in to the top of your framerail and save 3-4" of clearance in the center of your car.
So much for playing nice :jester:
Anyway, I just ran down and measured, I'm loosing 2 3/8" at the unirail, assuming I keep some sort of stock floor. Yes, I could have hacked into the hole center of the XJ but I didn't want to get into that mess. If I wanted to dig that deep into it, I'd have built a buggy with just an XJ firewall.
There are many many things I'd do different with this build and reasons why its taking so long but lack of "caring for wheeling" such as heck isn't one of them. In all fairness it'll be three years since it was hit in January, but only about two years for the build, it did sit for awhile while I gathered parts.
Some of us have jobs and multiple hobbies.

To avoid derailing this too far... Bill, what's left to finish? Looks to me like:
* finish rockers (UHMW, etc, like you said)
* get the axles under it (as I recall they were ready to bolt up)
* set up the arms and driveshafts, install coilovers
* brake lines and interior + random small stuff
* make it pass the salvage vehicle title inspection (:roflmao:)
For the past few months there hasn't been any money for anything else, but your right I do wish I could spend every waking minute on it.

Your list is pretty much good, but here it is corrected:
* finish rockers
* weld in the last rear tube for the fenders
* get the axles under it (rear is complete, front needs to be geared and steering done)
* set up the arms and driveshafts, install coilovers (whoopie, all of 30min as they are done)
* brake lines, fuel lines, trans lines, coolers, and interior + random small stuff
* some sort of front bumper for a winch

Not much left considering what I had to start with, but it'll be awhile as I can't buy anything for a few weeks. So far everything has been paid cash up front, not credit card charges if I didn't have the cash. I'm not going to change that now.

If you need a hand at any point*, I'm usually wasting time evenings... I know a few others are too.

* translation: we will stand around and drink beer while you work on the XJ :anon:
I know a bunch of you have offered and some have come over a few times, but usually I like to take my time. I really enjoy spending time in the garage working on it when it is "done" I'll have to find another 3 year project. :gag:
 
* finish rockers
* weld in the last rear tube for the fenders
* get the axles under it (rear is complete, front needs to be geared and steering done)
* set up the arms and driveshafts, install coilovers (whoopie, all of 30min as they are done)
* brake lines, fuel lines, trans lines, coolers, and interior + random small stuff
* some sort of front bumper for a winch
That's about what I figured, forgot about gearing/steering and all the random small tubing other than brakes. Didn't realize you'd already built the arms, I must have forgotten that.

Not much left considering what I had to start with, but it'll be awhile as I can't buy anything for a few weeks. So far everything has been paid cash up front, not credit card charges if I didn't have the cash. I'm not going to change that now.
:thumbup: I refuse to touch credit card / savings for hobby stuff, ever.

I know a bunch of you have offered and some have come over a few times, but usually I like to take my time. I really enjoy spending time in the garage working on it when it is "done" I'll have to find another 3 year project. :gag:
I know that one, I hate having people help me too :wow: As such it will probably take me all of my vacation week to get my new axles installed, and hopefully it still rolls afterwards!
 
Jeff sorry I missed this, I don't know how it slipped past me! :dunno:
Anyway, I'd had to look back in my notes to double check (I will), but I believe that the distance I was given from the bottom edge of the mounting can to the bottom of the fully collapsed bump was 1-7/8". With the distance of the poly bump and the snap ring I'm about 2-1/8" from the bottom of the can to the bottom of my makeshift bump, but I'm expecting that poly bump to deform before it starts to do anything.

Honestly I don't know if their measurements include the schraeder valve or not I never thought to ask. If you haven't already a quick call to them answered all my questions.

I don't want to mess up the thread too much, but I came across such a slick thing just now that I had to update this. I have a set of the bump cans now but I needed to build some sort of a mock hydro bump. I scrounged around my garage until I found the set of 89 MJ bump stops I had cut off. It turns out that they slip into the bump cans with no extra work!

P1010001.jpg


P1010002.jpg


They measure a little long at 2 3/4", but upon compression they should be close to the suggested length of 1 7/8" for Sway Away 2.0" O.D. 2" travel hydro bumps mentioned above or 2 1/8" suggested for a set of 2.0" O.D. Fox 2.5" travel hydro bumps.

P1010003.jpg


Jeff
 
I don't want to mess up the thread too much, but I came across such a slick thing just now that I had to update this. I have a set of the bump cans now but I needed to build some sort of a mock hydro bump. I scrounged around my garage until I found the set of 89 MJ bump stops I had cut off. It turns out that they slip into the bump cans with no extra work!

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/fourliter/MJ%20Suspension/P1010001.jpg
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/fourliter/MJ Suspension/P1010002.jpg

They measure a little long at 2 3/4", but upon compression they should be close to the suggested length of 1 7/8" for Sway Away 2.0" O.D. 2" travel hydro bumps mentioned above or 2 1/8" suggested for a set of 2.0" O.D. Fox 2.5" travel hydro bumps.

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/fourliter/MJ Suspension/P1010003.jpg

Jeff
Jeff, don't worry about messing it up, its neat tech not random BS. ;)

That is awesome. Pretty slick and replacement pads if you ever need them will be super easy and cheap. Good find!

For those wondering where the 1 7/8" came from, when I spoke with someone at SAW I was told that for the 2.0" size, 2" stroke bump the distance from the end of the strike pad to the bottom of the can is between 1.75" and 2.0" depending on how worn out the pad surface might be. I grabbed the middle and went from there.
 
Jeff, don't worry about messing it up, its neat tech not random BS. ;)

I have yet to see even a smidgen of "random BS" within this tech-overfilled build thread. :dunno:
















:gee:
 
A death sentence has been handed down by the honorable Judge MoparManiac.
 
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