5spd_xj
<<the good ol days
- Location
- Dracut, MA
Project Downward Spiral
- Thread starter RCman
- Start date
Since whatever I choose here will directly effect how that goes, I'm ain't rushing this.it looks perfect. now wheel it, damn you!!
:gee: Thanks Rob. That 4"x6" oak is really getting used, but hey as long as it isn't part of the XJ I'm all set, right?
5spd_xj
<<the good ol days
- Location
- Dracut, MA
Since whatever I choose here will directly effect how that goes, I'm ain't rushing this.
:banghead:
you need to do a full write up on them cuz ill need i set for mine when it goes on stands
Jeff 98XJ WI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Butternut, WI
I got the mounting cans and the old shock body from Offroad Engineering.
I went with the 2" cans so that I could use all the popular brands (like SAW, Fox, King, Bilstein, etc) if I ever came across a deal on them. I called SAW and got dimensions for their 2" stroke bump, so I based mine off of those collapsed.
I now have a set of these exact same bump cans in my grubby little hands and began by setting one of them where I wanted it to mount and noticed that I really didn't have that much room there. I took a look at the sway away site and noted that I can really only fit a 2" stroke stop (8.36" collapsed length.) They list the collapsed and extended lengths, but don't show if that measurement includes the schraeder valve or not. Also, they don't list the dimension from the bottom edge of the mounting can to the bottom of the fully collapsed bump. Do you have these measurements?
Jeff
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Jeff sorry I missed this, I don't know how it slipped past me! :dunno:
Anyway, I'd had to look back in my notes to double check (I will), but I believe that the distance I was given from the bottom edge of the mounting can to the bottom of the fully collapsed bump was 1-7/8". With the distance of the poly bump and the snap ring I'm about 2-1/8" from the bottom of the can to the bottom of my makeshift bump, but I'm expecting that poly bump to deform before it starts to do anything.
Honestly I don't know if their measurements include the schraeder valve or not I never thought to ask. If you haven't already a quick call to them answered all my questions.
Well I've been slacking updating this thread, but I have been making some headway.
I was asked for a rear shot of the cage as it looks now. There are still two more tubes to go in place and form the bottom of the rear fender, and a plate at the end of the what remains of the quarter panel for a taillight, but other than that it's complete. You can also catch the completed (minus the lower supports that go to the rear LCA mounts) B-Pillar hoop through the back window.
Then I began on the rockers. This was a little tricky to figure out how I was going to tie them down to the uni-rail. I positioned them such that the B-Pillar hoop lands on one of them to give it a good tie in spot. I also want to be able to skin them with some
3/8" UHMW that is backed with a dimpled to heck piece of 16ga. In order to to this easy they had to be all in the same plane.
I started with the four middle supports (2"x2"x3/16"wall) and then realized that I wouldn't have a good place to end the rocker skin so I added a fifth to the very front and I'm in the process of adding a sixth to the very rear (2"x2"x1/4"wall as I ran out of 3/16"). Later I'll drill and tap these in three places on each leg for some 5/16-18" flat head socket cap screws to hold the 3/8" UHMW and 16ga on.
Here's some shots of those, starting with how much they protrude the floor (this should also give me a great place to tie in a door bar if I want to add one at a later time). Yes, I know I still have some paint/seam sealer removal before these get welded in.
Shots form underneath, you can see I bent the pinch seam back a bit so it'll clear the skin:
I was asked for a rear shot of the cage as it looks now. There are still two more tubes to go in place and form the bottom of the rear fender, and a plate at the end of the what remains of the quarter panel for a taillight, but other than that it's complete. You can also catch the completed (minus the lower supports that go to the rear LCA mounts) B-Pillar hoop through the back window.
Then I began on the rockers. This was a little tricky to figure out how I was going to tie them down to the uni-rail. I positioned them such that the B-Pillar hoop lands on one of them to give it a good tie in spot. I also want to be able to skin them with some
3/8" UHMW that is backed with a dimpled to heck piece of 16ga. In order to to this easy they had to be all in the same plane.
I started with the four middle supports (2"x2"x3/16"wall) and then realized that I wouldn't have a good place to end the rocker skin so I added a fifth to the very front and I'm in the process of adding a sixth to the very rear (2"x2"x1/4"wall as I ran out of 3/16"). Later I'll drill and tap these in three places on each leg for some 5/16-18" flat head socket cap screws to hold the 3/8" UHMW and 16ga on.
Here's some shots of those, starting with how much they protrude the floor (this should also give me a great place to tie in a door bar if I want to add one at a later time). Yes, I know I still have some paint/seam sealer removal before these get welded in.
Shots form underneath, you can see I bent the pinch seam back a bit so it'll clear the skin:
Thanks!
The figuring and the first side was the most time consuming, once I got the the size and angle of all the cuts in the floor (so I didn't make them to big and thus not allowing me to weld them back up) and for the supports figured out the passenger side went like a breeze. I've still got to finish the sixth legs, but it shouldn't take to long.
I still want to be able to throw doors back on it and I didn't want to get into something like what Starboard M did with his. I think with the UHMW on there I'll be plenty slick to slide over stuff.
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im only plannin on takin 2" off the bottom of my doors wich should still allow windows to work(btw did yours have power windows?), also when you order the UHMW let me know, maybee we can get it cheaper if we buy more
5spd_xj
<<the good ol days
- Location
- Dracut, MA
Shots form underneath, you can see I bent the pinch seam back a bit so it'll clear the skin:
DUDE. Didn't you know that if you mess with the pinch seam it could take away from the structural integrity of your vehicle?!? :scared:
otherwise, looks great
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
One of the places my dad buys his plywood from has a bunch of 4'x8' sheets of these i found hanging out back
1/4", 1/2", 3/4" thicknesses. its being sold as an alternative to wood for making kitchens outta plastic or something. looking at the spec sheets for the product, its very similar to UHMW/HDPE with equal strength ratings and characteristics. i was thinking of buying a sheet and using it when i do my boatsides and bellypan, maybe even the gas skid too.Bill, what do you have for a line on UHMW? my other thought was ordering some thru the Grainger store a town over from me.
Power everything for the doors, the heated mirrors did come off and they are going on Angel's. I don't think I'll run mirrors.
I'll keep you posted, I've got a line on some 4'x8' sheets.
Haha, the pinch seam isn't doing anything other than holding a small peice of sheetmetal to the bottom of the rocker. If it wasn't going to help keep water out I'd have cut if off.DUDE. Didn't you know that if you mess with the pinch seam it could take away from the structural integrity of your vehicle?!? :scared:
otherwise, looks great
Thanks.
Find out exactly what it is, if it is virgin or recycled, and a price you could be onto something. Be Careful, UHMW is not the same as HDPE. They are both polyethylene, but UHMW is better with impacts and wear than HDPE, the tradeoff is it is much more expensive. Either would probably work fine though.One of the places my dad buys his plywood from has a bunch of 4'x8' sheets of these i found hanging out back
Bill, what do you have for a line on UHMW? my other thought was ordering some thru the Grainger store a town over from me.
I'll PM you (and Rob) with information I have on the hookup.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
its virgin stuff, has the same tensile psi rating as UHMW, impact and wear resistant. im 95% sure its UHMW, it just has a fancy name on it from the company that sells it, but the specs all match UHMW. im pretty sure he told me $200-250 for a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4".
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
PS- Bill, the rear tube work is looking pimp same with the rockers
same with the rockers
- Location
- Lafayette, CA
I would be curious what it is called as well. Im sure at some point the stuff I used on my boatsides will wear out, and I am looking for a cheaper alternative than UHMW.
Also, where did you see it? Some local store, or a big chain store?
I got some progress done this weekend. Like always not as much as hoped, but headway is headway.
Anyway, I got the rear coilover springs figured out. I’m going to run a tender, and 12” 150lb/in over a 14” 250lb/in. This will give me the ride height I’m looking for an keep me frequency in check with what seems to be a good starting point.
Then I got the sixth leg/support welded on the rockers and began mocking up the steel backer for the UHMW.
Mocked up in cardboard:
Profile Shot:
The steel skin backers on the rockers (upside down on the floor in this picture) after a long date with some hole saws and dimple dies.
Tomorrow I’ll swing by the local Mom&Pop and pick up the 5/16-18 flat heads I need and begin drilling/tapping all the holes to hold it all together. I still need to purchase some 3/8" UHMW, but I need some cash first to do that.
I also found some time after I got all the holes drilled to take apart my drill press and figure out what bearings I need. The bearings have been getting worse in it for a little while now while I had it all moved out it seemed like a good time to tear into it. Keep in mind that the drill press is only a few months shy of begin 61 years old. Yup you read that right, no typo, built it 1949. Built like a tank too, you can’t get anything its size new built like it anymore, everything is all plastic junk. It’s stamped in several places with “Proudly Made in the United States of America”. Original motor as well, not too bad I don’t think.
Anyway, I got the rear coilover springs figured out. I’m going to run a tender, and 12” 150lb/in over a 14” 250lb/in. This will give me the ride height I’m looking for an keep me frequency in check with what seems to be a good starting point.
Then I got the sixth leg/support welded on the rockers and began mocking up the steel backer for the UHMW.
Mocked up in cardboard:
Profile Shot:
The steel skin backers on the rockers (upside down on the floor in this picture) after a long date with some hole saws and dimple dies.
Tomorrow I’ll swing by the local Mom&Pop and pick up the 5/16-18 flat heads I need and begin drilling/tapping all the holes to hold it all together. I still need to purchase some 3/8" UHMW, but I need some cash first to do that.
I also found some time after I got all the holes drilled to take apart my drill press and figure out what bearings I need. The bearings have been getting worse in it for a little while now while I had it all moved out it seemed like a good time to tear into it. Keep in mind that the drill press is only a few months shy of begin 61 years old. Yup you read that right, no typo, built it 1949. Built like a tank too, you can’t get anything its size new built like it anymore, everything is all plastic junk. It’s stamped in several places with “Proudly Made in the United States of America”. Original motor as well, not too bad I don’t think.
