preppingb the 12 point 13mm bolts?!?

[mikeny59]

Just finished my brake job, Hawk & Brembo, but had to order caliper bolt boots, old ones shot @ 101k.\

Pulling the calipers this weekened, what do you think about wrestling out the hub bolts and anti-sneezing 'em for future maintenance? Got nothing better to do, figured to the crime prior to the real thing down the road.

Logical?!?!?!

Thanks

 

[johnnyc]

Very logical.

Easier to get them off in your garage than waiting until you have to do it on the trail.

 

[Rev Den]

The bolts don't really sieze....it's the hub to knuckle that is a pain.

Rev

 

[Matthew Currie]

The bolts don't really sieze....it's the hub to knuckle that is a pain.

Rev

Maybe it depends on where you live. Here the bolts seize too.

 

[Rocketman]

That's no lie... Getting the hub off is a beotch. A big 3 arm puller sounds like the logical solution if you have one available. I haven't tried it myself though. I used the BFH from behind method.

 

[RichP]

If you do it get the copper based anti-seize, it lasts longer in high temp conditions than the aluminum based. Run a bead with the brush around the whole hub rotor interface and dont be stingy with it.

 

[mikeny59]

Thanks.

Going to do some preventive maintenance today - weather bites - and see how the hubs want to behave.

Always kept things clean underneath, and I found a puller I was going to use for the 4.10's project of which all the parts including two tads are still sitting on the shelf after three years.

Just gotta find the copper anti-seize, have alot of MAPP gas case things get behind schedule.

Thanks all, didn't know any of this stuff before...

 

[woody]

Thanks.

Going to do some preventive maintenance today - weather bites - and see how the hubs want to behave.

Always kept things clean underneath, and I found a puller I was going to use for the 4.10's project of which all the parts including two tads are still sitting on the shelf after three years.

Just gotta find the copper anti-seize, have alot of MAPP gas case things get behind schedule.

Thanks all, didn't know any of this stuff before...

The best hub trick I've found is to buy 2 or 3 bolts, 100mm long x 12mm dia./1.75mmTP. Beating on the OEM 12 pts is a good way to ruin them, plus they aren't long enough to engage the threads far enough to be both secure and to let the hub come out.

I would avoid using a puller on your hub... ESPECIALLY if you have removed the 36mm axle stub nut.

Once you have the front axle off the ground, wheels/calipers/rotors off, and the 3 hub bolts out , thread your new bolts in and use these as targets for the BFH... You will want to leave the steering unlocked so you can pivot the knuckles left<->right to get access to the victims.

After the hubs are out, scour the rust off the mating surfaces on the hub & knuckle. Try to clean up the bolts & their holes too... Anti-sieze works great, but I've also had good luck with Mobil-1 synthetic grease... Whatever product you decide on, smear it on the mating surfaces and a dab on the bolts.

This is also "prime time" to replace the axle u-joints if there are some miles on them.

Have fun!

 

[mikeny59]

I'm picturing in my head that the sacrificial bolts thread into the old hub, not a boss on the knuckle, so worrying about mangling the female threads is moot. (It's early and not everything is registering 100%, just at the moment.

I'd definitely rather go that route than setting up the puller, compressor or not.

BTW, I mix mobil 1 grease with anti-seize, with a few shots of Boeshield T9 for certain applications.

And off topic a tad, I've found that if I completely slather a RE t/b heimjoint in m1, so you can't even see it, it'll last soooo much longer. Just replaced one, the ball was flopping around like a fish on a dock, tried a million different ways to lube it, all failed. It's ugly but works.

Thanks Woody, again sorry for digressing:gag: