Possible cure for that "wandering" steering issue

[Tally_XJ]

If you have lifted your Jeep, installed control arms, new steering modifications or other mods that has left you with a "wandering" Jeep that is hard to keep straight in the road, then I may have the cure you need.

I lifted my ZJ with RE 4.5" lift springs that gave me at least 5" of lift. I installed adjustable control arms, new adjustable track bars, OTK tie rod flip with all brand new tie rods and tie rod ends, checked and rechecked the alignment and I had a pretty bad "wandering" problem that I was unable to correct no matter what I did.

Well, I finally fixed it today.

I was just real sure that I had all of my control arm bolts tight, my track bar bolts tight and everything else under the front end tight.

I was wrong. I used an air gun to tighten all of these bolts when I installed the parts. Apparently that doesn't get them tight enough.

I used a 24" long ratchet in 1/2" drive and tightened the absolute $hit out of all of them. Most of them were loose enough that I was able to get at least a full turn or even several on some.

When I say tight, I mean tight. I laid the torque to these bolts and nuts.

Do this with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels so that the bushings are not torqued down then weight placed on them. This will cause the bushings to be twisted at ride height and will cause them to fail. You might even want to loosen everything then let the weight down on the wheels and then tighten everything again just to be sure.

My steering is now much tighter feeling and the "wandering" is gone. So are a lot of the noises I have been hearing up front; pops and cracks over bumps and when turning the wheels.

 

[xjbubba]

There are specific torque specifications for every nut/bolt used on your suspension system. Those are the numbers you should use--along with a torque wrench. I personally would not "--used a 24" long ratchet in 1/2" drive and tightened the absolute $hit out of all of them---".
Proper toe and caster adjustments are the primary reasons for "wandering".

 

[HoneyBadger]

Depending on the elasticity of the bolts, many bolts are or could be considered "torque to yield" and should be replaced each time they are torqued or you risk breaking them. This includes excessive torque (abuse). Fasteners are generally inexpensive. I would recommend replacing any that you may have excessively torqued. Poor tracking of a vehicle's suspension is most often the result of poor tyre wear patterns and improper alignment (as has already been mentioned above: caster, SAI, camber, and toe). Caster has a lot to do with gyroscopic precession (a good example would be to look at the suspension on the front of a motorcycle). It can effect tyre wear (i.e. increases and decreases in rolling resistance leading to a specific wear pattern). You may wish to do a study on suspension geometry and discover this for yourself.

 

[whitexj98]

Or you're track bar bushings are actually bad and over tighting them is just a temp fix to the wandering but I see it was a new track bar so who knows.

 

[Tally_XJ]

Every bushing, bar, tie rod end and adjuster sleeve is absolutely brand new on my front end. My alignment has been checked and double checked. All in spec. My tires are less than two months old and they are new tires, not used.

I originally did torque these bolts to spec. Later after some adjustments I simply used an air gun. Apparently it isn't enough to just torque them to spec.

 

[HoneyBadger]

In spite of your correction to this problem, I'm curious to know a few more details about your configuration.

Did you relocate the axle track-bar mount when you installed OTK steering? Do you have a longer Pitman arm and a track-bar lowering mount? What are your alignment specifications?

It would be nice if you had a photo of the front suspension to display here.

See photo example:

 

[Tally_XJ]

In spite of your correction to this problem, I'm curious to know a few more details about your configuration.

Did you relocate the axle track-bar mount when you installed OTK steering? Do you have a longer Pitman arm and a track-bar lowering mount? What are your alignment specifications?

It would be nice if you had a photo of the front suspension to display here.

See photo example:

I have a shorter drop pitman arm ordered. My drag link needs to go up in order to correct an angle difference between the track bar. I do not want to drop the pitman arm any more than it is. I have the IRO HD double shear track bar and bracket which I believe drops the track bar. I did not, yet, move the axle side track bar mount. I am getting only minimal bump steer only over severe bumps or pot holes.

I saw the alignment specs as I was doing the alignment myself on the rack at work. I do remember my left camber was 1* out of spec, my toe was set to the narrow side of spec and my caster was 2.8* left and 3.2* on the right.

I do not have exactly the type of photo you suggest.


The closest I have are these

 

[xjbubba]

"--my caster was 2.8* left and 3.2* on the right." Could be your problem--3* is way low. I've had wandering at 3*, but OK at 4*--I believe spec is ~6-7*.

 

[Tally_XJ]

"--my caster was 2.8* left and 3.2* on the right." Could be your problem--3* is way low. I've had wandering at 3*, but OK at 4*--I believe spec is ~6-7*.

I have some more to do to the front end and when I do I am going to set it to 4* or even 5* if my shaft angle will tolerate it. I have an HP 30 I am going to start building to replace this LP turd.

 

[anthrax323]

Just a comment on the wandering issue - the most likely solution was tightening your axle-side track bar bolt. If it's too loose, it'll ream the bracket holes out and cause subtle shifting of the axle. I had the same issue - had to torque the piss out of it to stop the movement and prevent further damage to the bracket holes.

Aside from that, caster angle is indeed the most likely culprit (as is currently being discussed).