Your mannerisms are the issue not the jeep.. Scaring people off bro
I never said anything was pointless-mentioned the screwdriver video to see what you learned, what was the point? Didnt rule out much that has been posted to look in to.
Nothing is pointless if it helps you or anyone (should have clarified).
Your data is just flawed, bottom line. We are talking about a mighty bang from Thors hammer when stopping in N before going to drive right? Why then are you adding a 4LOW video to the mix? My jeep jumps like a sob when put in gear in 4 low. Is this what you dont like? Thats normal boss.
Of all the shops... Other forums.. There is one common denominator- you.
No one here has claimed to be an expert, no one has said anything with any certainty (since we arent in the jeep), or claimed that anyone else was wrong--- that is, EXCEPT YOU.
See the theme here? We came to help and you played "I know better then you" (without checking any of the KNOWN mechanical points that exaggerate the concern) and so, less people care anymore.
Get the damn diff and all mounts checked if you cant do it yourself. GL
I posted the screwdriver video in this thread for you solely because you had mentioned hands-only strength on the drive shaft. I wasn't suggesting that the screwdriver leverage would approximate the engine, just offering it because I already had the video and it only took about 5 seconds to add it to the post. If I include something, it MIGHT help someone. If I don't, it can't. So if I even suspect that it might help someone someday, I post it. No big effort required, so why not?
Same answer as above for the 4LO video...I had it, so why not include it along with the 2HI video? I figure that readers can ignore it if it is of no value to them. I made it partly because I was afraid that if I did NOT include it (in the original post) then someone would be asking "what happens if you engage the TC into 4WD...does it still do it? Easier for me to just include the video to begin with.
As far as the 2HI video, I can tell you that when I do not pause in Neutral that the difference seen at the differential is HUGE. When I do not pause in Neutral, it is more like a smooth *movement* of the pinion rather than a jolt, it rotates less, and does not have the rebound seen in the video.
You state that my data and my theory is simply flawed, and then state "Pausing in N takes the load off of the drive shaft". When in Reverse, the load on the driveshaft is a reverse load, agreed? So is it incorrect to assume that, if all other factors were equal, since the driveshaft has to rotate farther when going from Reverse to Drive than from Neutral to Drive, that more rotational momentum would be available when going from Reverse to Drive? So then, if all other factors were equal, then the "hammer would have a longer stroke" going directly from Reverse to Drive (without pausing in Neutral), causing more of a clunk/lurch that way than if you had paused in Neutral (reducing the hammer stroke) before going into Drive.
BUT, of course, all factors are not equal. IF the transmission impeller and input shaft (plus anything else attached to the input shaft when in Neutral) are able to free-wheel and spin up in rpm when the transmission is in Neutral, then you would have to add the rotational momentum of the transmission impeller and input shaft (plus anything else attached to the input shaft when in Neutral) to the calculation, and so this mean that really only real-world tests would indicate whether pausing in Neutral would increase or decrease the clunk/lurch.
I was told by one expert shop mechanic that the transmission impeller and input shaft (plus anything else attached to the input shaft when in Neutral) do NOT free-wheel and are NOT able to spin up in Neutral, but I was told just the opposite by a transmission shop mechanic. Searching online leads me to believe that the transmission guy was correct, but I still don't know the answer.
If the transmission impeller and input shaft (plus anything else attached to the input shaft when in Neutral) are able to free-wheel and spin up in rpm when the transmission is in Neutral, then that would be a possible explanation as to why pausing in Neutral causes my clunk/lurch, BUT....in order for that to be true, then ALL AW4 transmissions would also have smoother shifts into Drive without pausing in Neutral, with the only variance between AW4's being the DEGREE of difference between pausing and not pausing in Neutral. On a really tight XJ, the difference might be virtually un-noticable, whereas on a very loose XJ, the difference would be pronounced. The only way that I have to reasonably conclude that "all" AW4's behave this way is to ask fellow Jeep owners who have AW4's in their Jeeps...preferably XJ owners, to keep things less confusing.
So the above is my reasoning for wanting to know how others' AW4's behave. If someone feels that the logic above is flawed, feel free to tell me why.
I disagree with your assessment of what has transpired in this thread, but we are so far apart on that that we will just have to agree to disagree, I guess.
My intention in opening this thread was never to engage in arguments with readers or waste their time. My only goal was included in the Title: "Please try this with your XJ and tell me results?". How could I be more clear about what I was asking for? If someone chooses to engage with me in a conversation unrelated to that specific request and we disagree, don't get mad at me for wasting your time or not taking your advice. In a disagreement, BOTH parties believe that they are correct and the opposing viewpoint is incorrect (wrong)...what's wrong with that? If you want to believe that I am arrogant for believing that my test is valid and not accepting from other members that my test is a waste of time, then OK, I'm arrogant.
I think another factor at play here is that I don't want to spend $800 (quoted) to have my differential rebuilt if the transmission also needs rebuilding (~$2500), and vice-versa. I can't afford to, or don't want to, just throw money at this XJ until this mystery clunk/lurch disappears. I'd be better off selling it to someone who has the tools and garage space to do the work themselves, and just sell the XJ to them for $3000 under normal Blue Book value. That way they could also install a locker on the rear end and do other custom work while replacing/rebuilding the transmission and differential.
Again, thanks for your test results...I really do appreciate your doing that for me.
