OTK WJ knuckle swap. What could go wrong?

[travisk]

I'm about to start this swap so I figured I'd let you watch this mess unfold. If you see me about to do something stupid, please let me know.

Here are the parts that I've acquired over the last few months.

My parts list (Google Doc)

Started by baking the knuckles in the oven at 500 degrees for two hours, then ran them over to my buddy's shop so he could weld on the flanges. They were cooled in a bucket of sand for several hours.

This is all I have so far. Once I pull the axle off I won't be able to drive my jeep until it's all done, so I'm hesitating.

 

[cal]

The bolts that hold the caliper mount to the knuckle are one time use and special.

Order up at least 2 sets of them. Rock auto is usually best price.

 

[iluv83vettes]

Make sure when you are making your steering arms that you note not only to have a left and right hand thread weld bung on each tube, but that you make sure to note that the heims and TREs are different thread pitch.

 

[travisk]

The bolts that hold the caliper mount to the knuckle are one time use and special.

I will order some, thanks.

Make sure when you are making your steering arms that you note not only to have a left and right hand thread weld bung on each tube, but that you make sure to note that the heims and TREs are different thread pitch.

Got to remember to double check that, thanks.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

What wheels are you running? With one ton offset TREs, they may rub very badly. I run 15" aluminum wheels with 3.75" backspacing and I had to get wheel spacers or use non off set TREs to make it all fit. The amount i had to grind off without the wheel spacers was simply unsafe. Steel wheels will be less of an issue but that's my experience

 

[travisk]

I have steelies with 3.75 back spacing. We'll see how it goes.

 

[rockclimber]

make sure that is a genuine OEM pitman arm and not an aftermarket. the aftermarket ones are made out of garbage metal, I have seen and experienced several stripping at the splines and refusing to stay tight.

you also titled your thread incorrectly.

 

[travisk]

make sure that is a genuine OEM pitman arm

I think it's OEM. Does this look right?

 

[travisk]

After a year of sitting on these parts and doing nothing, I finally got up the nerve to get this swap started.

This garbage has caused me alot of problems and is going away.

Removed the axle and cut off the passenger upper control arm mount, the sway bar mounts and most of the track bar mount.

Test fit the Artec truss

Way-too-long Rough Country track bar mount replaced with a Rubicon Express mount. The RE mount fit over my frame stiffeners without modification, which was nice.

Kalil went to work on the Artec truss.

Kalil used short welds and moved around to prevent the axle from getting too hot, per Artec's instructions.

Preheating the cast steel before welding. Got a little lazy with this, but nothing cracked so that's good.

Used a reamer on the knuckles and the steering arm until the 1-ton tie rod ends fit just right.

Reused the factory UCA mount on top of the truss.

Cut up a perfectly good TNT Customs track bar bracket to make it fit with the Artec truss.

Hope it's in the right spot.

Now to paint it, install the knuckles and figure out what fasteners I'm missing for everything else.

 

[cal]

looking good

 

[DJLoPo]

When do the 40's arrive?

 

[travisk]

When do the 40's arrive?

I stopped drinking those a long time ago.

 

[xCWolf]

I stopped drinking those a long time ago.

Awesome

 

[rockclimber]

assist?

 

[Redxj5150]

assist?

No, he looks like he's got this dude... He doesn't need your help...

:roflmao:

 

[rockclimber]

No, he looks like he's got this dude... He doesn't need your help...

:roflmao:

 

[srb531]

so what method / materials did you use to weld the spacers to the knuckles ?

 

[chasdb]

Check your clearance from the truss to the pan at full stuff. I creased my oil pan and had to add some more bump stop even after pushing my axle foreword.

 

[iluv83vettes]

Check your clearance from the truss to the pan at full stuff. I creased my oil pan and had to add some more bump stop even after pushing my axle foreword.

Same here. Mine is one hockey puck and extended daystar bumps in the factory location. I also needed it for trac bar to diff cover clearance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[travisk]

so what method / materials did you use to weld the spacers to the knuckles ?

Bolted the spacers to the knuckles, heated them in the oven to 450 degrees, then Kalil carefully took a MIG welder to them. Buried them in a bucket of sand to cool slowly.

Check your clearance from the truss to the pan at full stuff.

Thanks, I will check. I am bump stopped pretty good. Also, thanks for loaning me the reamer.