OPINIONS: FSJ Wagoneer

AndyS

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Shrewsbury, MA
OK; I'm giving some very serious consideration to replacing my beloved XJ with a full size Grand Cherokee/Grand Wagoneer. The full frame, leaf springs, v8 (360 or 401) plus just being a bit bigger are the prime reasons for the consideration. That being said, I don't know much about them. I live in Massachusetts, so I have two choices:

1) Buy the newest one I can and keep it fairly stock so I can pass emissions.

2) Buy one older than 1983 so I don't have to take the emissions test.

I prefer the older, round headlight, non-wood grained models, but finding one without rust (and keeping it that way) will be a chore. I'd love a late 70's 4 speed with a 401 and zero rust, but I'm not sure if they exist outside a museum. My only big requirement is that since it's replacing my current XJ as a daily driver, I must keep it reliable, and any projects must be able to be accomplished in 2 - 3 days.

I'd like to lift it about 2-3 inches and stick 31-32's under it. Should I look for particular years for different x-fer cases/axles/tranny combo's? Everything else being equal, I'd prefer to stay away from Quadra-Trac's, just for mileage's sake.

Where do they rust? Are they reliable? Do they wheel well (mild)? How are the brakes? Do I go old-and-simple, or is new-with-power-everything the way to go? I'm a bit of a minimalist myself, but I do need A/C.

Thanks for your opinions, those in the know!!

Andy
 
oh geez......since I'm a moderator at www.ifsja.org I guess I should answer this one. =)

First things first....my 70 Wagoneer is the MOST RELIABLE vehicle I have ever owned. Period.........every day it just goes.

Now to address a few of your points.

Rust

-It may be true that the only rust free one's are in museums.......(ok ....probably not) but if you want one that clean you will need to get it from the SW USA or from someone who has stored it a LONG time. Typically.....they rust in the rear quarter panels first( I know...what doesn't). The other problem with these rigs( or the guys who designed them) is that they put a skid plate over the gas tank and no drain holes! You will also usually find the skid plate rusted off or worse.....spreading rust to the frame. This is probably the most important spot to check for rust on and FSJ you are thinking of purchasing. Driver's floor pan would be the other prime location to check.

Old vs. Newer

Personal Preferance....Older. I like the round headlights......I like the simplicity......no emmisions crap...yaddah, yaddah, yaddah. Biggest difference is after 1979 they started using the TF727 instead of the TH400....and they switched to NP xfer cases instead of Quadratrak BW1339(with auto) and Dana20(with manual). Before 1974 will all be Dana 20 xfer case. Quadratrak will not effect your mileage adversely like you think it will. Any FSJ with a V8 (350,360,401) will not get better than 15MPG tops. PERIOD. They do make a part time conversion kit for the QT as well.

Power

Engines can be fun...especially if it is the 401. But please...don't expect to get more than 12MPG from one. The 401 was only offered from 74-78.....and it never came with a 4spd manual from the factory...only a TH400. Jeep did make a T18 that can stand the abuse.....but it is some work to get one swapped in.

Lifts

There are plenty out there....and they are EAASY to install. 3" of lift and you can fit 31s on a NT(Wag or Chero). you can fit 31s on a stock WT(Chero or Jtruck).

Off-Roading

I personally attended the Ouray, CO invasiojn last year and saw a whot lot of these beasts in action. VERY capable. Not as comfy as a coil sprung XJ....but very capable.

Feel free to ask more questions or wander over to www.ifsja.org
 
I had a 69, 350CuIn buick [dauntless] engine, T400, Spicer 20. Thing was a tank, spent alot of money fixing it up, I think I got the last new gas tank left in the US. Local jeep dealer fourd it in colorado. Oh, it was ex-military, had D44's front and rear, locked rear. Warn hubs. Mods I made, intake and 4bbl off a 69 Buick Grand sport, headers, dual exhaust, 31's.
Things to look out for, electric rear window, they can be a bear to get working right, $300 for the new motor, tracking ran me about $200. Find a wind up tailgate, much easier to live with.
If I had it now, I would have saved $800 on the stock tank, put a rear aero tank w/skid instead. Converted to 4 wheel disc, I could no longer find drums wide enough to go on those brakes.
There is a guy in Texas I think that buys old ones, puts them through a production run and restores them to new or better than new.
Oh, I had to have a new floor put in on the drivers side, rusted out above the gas tank.
 
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