NWF BlackBox-i UnderDrive

you don't want to mod the floor, but are you taking into account the fac work required to hang the blackbox & D300?
a custom cross member which attaches to atleast the D300 will be required, which means getting rid of whatever you have, or modding it to work with what your putting in.

if you don't have the ability to make/modify your rig to make these options work, the one option left is to 4:1 the 231.


well the
RE lift i have has a pretty good size belly pan that i could easily make some kind of foot to rest on it. and I could make another cross member if I had to. thats not that hard in my opinion.

if you read my whole post it states that i dont want to cut up my floor because its my DD. I should have been more clear about this, but what i meant is that I want my interior to stay relatively clean and factory looking, at least for now.

and in not 100% on this but Im pretty sure vetteboy who has a 231/300 doubler doesn't have anything supporting it. other then the factory spot. but its been awhile since i remember reading that so i could be wrong.
 
I was thinking about it and doesn't the 231 just hang off the back of the trans? and if the 300+crawl box is about the same length then why would it have to be supported?

I had planed on doing some kind of support but thinking about it now I don't think its necessary.

that being said I think I am going to give up on this in general.
time to do some more reading.

thanks for the advice
 
I was thinking about it and doesn't the 231 just hang off the back of the trans? and if the 300+crawl box is about the same length then why would it have to be supported?
The extra torque also is against it so another support would help.
 
hand throttle is your friend!


Iv got one. while it helps I still feel i go either too fast or stall the engine.

I should probably add that my motor has seen better days and is probably down on power. if it bogs in the slightest the valves sound like a skeleton is tap dancing under my hood. happens going up big hills on road too.

it also leaks oil like a siv on the highway. On my last 3hr trip to RC I lost 4qts of oil
 
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ya i had ax15 4:1 and 456 on 35's with hand throttle. felt like it was too slow in first 80% of the time. woulda been better on the 37's

i think a simple 4:1 would make a bigger difference than you think
 
IIRC, you can "massage" the floor with a BFH to clear a 231/300 doubler setup. Not sure.

Also, you could weld new metal in to fill the hole no problem. I completely understand not wanting everything you drive over to end up lurking under your seat in a DD.
 
Yea I know I could weld it up. But I only have a stick welder and don't want to rick blowing through the sheet metal. I think I'm just going to go 4:1 in the 300.

Ill build it, then save up for like 6 months and buy new shafts.
 
I had planed on doing some kind of support but thinking about it now I don't think its necessary.

it's necessary. A d300 is way heavier than a 231, cast iron case and all.

I have an AX-15 in the garage tat had a broken tail housing just from a 231 hanging off the back, with the weight of a 300/231 combo AND the extra torque it will need to be secured to the body somehow or it's going to end up breaking the tailhousing. I think a D300 weighs nearly 90 lbs.
 
I solved my problem. I got a fat tax return so I bought a stak 3 speed case.

5.44:1,3.04:1,1:1

its gonna work good. the jeep has also been relived of its DD duty.
 
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