I do have continuity between terminal 87 and both C11 and D10 after checking again. My jumper wire I was extending my multimeter wires with had a blown fuze earlier.
I did find something interesting though.
There was an orange wire coming off the starter relay that was broken and looked like it had been re-soldered once before. I soldered it back together (again), but the wire goes into a black rubber bulge and exits as a red wire. I got no voltage thru the black bulge thing (I'm thinking its a resistor or something under the bulge) once it was re-soldered. Anyone know what it is?
I checked voltage on the green wire before it went into a different black bulge and after the bulge and it was 12v before and only ~6v after it which is why I was thinking its a resistor.
So as long as I have no short on the output side to ground I should be able to replace it with an actual fuze and fuze socket and not worry about this fuzable link in the future. Hopefully this is the only easter egg I have and there aren't others hiding...
fusible links are a bit different from fuses. i would recommend replacing it with a fusible link. fusible links protect the wiring but if you want to use a fuse. i would go with 10 or less maybe try a 7 amp.
It lives again! I checked to make sure the wire wasn't shorting to ground and re-attached the fuzable link I got from O'Reilly's and it finally started up again. I even swapped back in my original ECU and it still ran great. Thanks all for the help in getting this going again.
I did run into another small problem I'll look at tomorrow, which is my turn signals and hazard lights don't flash anymore. I haven't checked anything yet (fuzes or flasher relay) but could swapping in a non tilt steering column from a HO cherokee in place of my original tilt column (renix) have caused this?