New to xjs help

B

braddaman7788

NAXJA Forum User
Hi I have a 2000 xj with a 94 motor that I just recently switched I of course had to change the intake manifold and exhaust manifold when I first put the motor in I could not get it to fire properly I had changed the coil for a coil pack of Eliminator where I just bought a Dodge Caravan coil pack and made my own bracket after some time of messing with that I couldn't get it to run right so I put the regular coil pack back on even though there was no where to attach it to the head the Jeep ran for about a day I drove it about 70 miles ran fine no overheating constantly held almost 60 lb of oil pressure even once warm when I went to leave work that evening I made it about 5 minutes down the road and the Jeep shut off and wouldn't continue to run running really rough falling on its face definitely some sort of fuel or fire issue upon checking I found that it was getting fuel but not fire so I replaced the crankshaft sensor then the camshaft sensor then the entire camshaft distributor oil pump Drive thing and now I've also replaced the relay that goes to the ads and I still can't get it to do anything more than fire for a few seconds by the time I shut the driver's door and walk around to the front of the Jeep it shuts off and now it won't turn over at all just cranks and cranks any suggestions would be greatly helpful
 
So I read all of that and I also use a toothpick to set the timing I have done this several times taken the synchronizer in and out of the block and I have rotated it clockwise and counterclockwise I have tried to get it to catch the other teeth on the cam to get a little bit more retard Advanced out of it but still nothing has worked and from what I understand the only thing that turning that synchronizer does is change the fuel and not the fire timing at all I'm about ready to pull my hair out the Jeep is sitting on the side of the road and it's my only vehicle
 
I also said the harmonic bouncer on zero every time and it's definitely on the compression stroke I have a friend hold their finger over the number one cylinder hole to make sure
 
Recheck the fuel pressure. Should be at least 45 PSI. I think the 2000 is more like 50 PSI. Also, get a NOID light. You should be able to rent one from one of the parts stores. They are a small disc. It attaches to the injector plug. Then crank. See if it lights up. Also watch if it doesn't light up. See if it lights up when you release the key. If so, then could be you key switch. There is an electrical board for the key switch.
 
Okay so a new development the cooling fan is running when I turn the key switch on it wasn't doing that before now it runs as soon as I turn the key
 
Do u think if the coolant temperature sensor is bad it would stop fire also I checked the head for any cracking in the middle and elsewhere but I don't see any
 
Also borrowed a fuel pressure gauge from my neighbor has about 48 PSI and I don't have annoyed light but the gauge definitely does a little dance when I crank it
 
I also borrowed a scan tool and it's telling me it can't establish a link with the vehicle even though I've used this exact scan tool and it has before
 
Also does anybody think that it might be because I didn't have the coil grounded to the Head that it might have made the ECM go bad
 
It's definitely not my defroster or my AC I have both of those switches off the fan and the selector switch to the zero position I've cleaned all the grounds including the one in the back of the Jeep beside the gas tank neck the one on the back of the block to the firewall and the ones next to the dipstick I've also gone over the entire harness that goes to the camshaft crankshaft sensor oil sending unit Speedo oxygen sensors Etc
 
Does the Cherokee have optional Factory installed SKIS/SKIM anti-theft?

Instead of supposing things that might be bad, you need to test some things. All the symptoms may, or may not, be from one single defect, don't get hyper focused on one single idea and forget to look around at everything and anything related to the engine swap.

The fact that a trouble code reader tool will not establish a link, the e-fan runs at the wrong time, and the dash displays No-Bus, should make one suspect a short circuit in the 5 volts OBD sensor CCD Bus and that the PCM is potentially in protect mode. This is very likely a major clue to focus your diagnostics.

Test the CPS, cheap Chinese clone CPS are often faulty or out of specification right out of the box. Inspect and test all the OBD sensor circuits for continuity between the PCM and the individual sensors, 5 volts supply, and ground. Yanking all the wire harnesses around for an engine swap may have damaged wires, damaged wire plugs, broken wire splices, or cause a wire harness to get too close to the exhaust or to sharp sheet metal.

The Scan Tools, O-Scopes and Toothpicks article pretty much says if the cam and crank sensors are not in the proper sync the engine will run badly, or not at all. The toothpick is starting point only, final sync adjustment may need an O-Scope, or a DRB-III scan tool.
 
Last edited:
Tim_MN said:
Does the Cherokee have optional Factory installed SKIS/SKIM anti-theft?

Instead of supposing things that might be bad, you need to test some things. All the symptoms may, or may not, be from one single defect, don't get hyper focused on one single idea and forget to look around at everything and anything related to the engine swap.

The fact that a trouble code reader tool will not establish a link, the e-fan runs at the wrong time, and the dash displays No-Bus, should make one suspect a short circuit in the 5 volts OBD sensor CCD Bus and that the PCM is potentially in protect mode. This is very likely a major clue to focus your diagnostics.

Test the CPS, cheap Chinese clone CPS are often faulty or out of specification right out of the box. Inspect and test all the OBD sensor circuits for continuity between the PCM and the individual sensors, 5 volts supply, and ground. Yanking all the wire harnesses around for an engine swap may have damaged wires, damaged wire plugs, broken wire splices, or cause a wire harness to get too close to the exhaust or to sharp sheet metal.

The Scan Tools, O-Scopes and Toothpicks article pretty much says if the cam and crank sensors are not in the proper sync the engine will run badly, or not at all. The toothpick is starting point only, final sync adjustment may need an O-Scope, or a DRB-III scan tool.
Click to expand...
 
It dose not have skimpr an anti theft key and now I've switched harness for a jeep I know ran the only thing different on the harness was the o2 censor location and that should cause it to run poorly but still run at least hiccup
 
I'm almost certain that it must be the ECU ECM PCM pick your choice now the problem is I spent all of my cash on all of these sensors and the other wire harness I have one that I can get a couple miles away from me but it won't be until Friday sucks this is my only vehicle already going on 2 weeks without it and like I said in the beginning of the post the vehicle after switching the motor ran fine for over 70 miles
 
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