Mod diary for the streetpirate XJ

[A Satria]

1987 2dr, 4.0, aw4, 231, d44.

this is my planned buildup of my first xj. the goal is to be in the top caliber
of non off road orientated jeeps, and mostly to kill all ricers. this will be done without lowering it, removing 4wd, or putting any kind of bling crap wheels
and such on.

Sorry that I asked a lot of tech questions in your THREAD. But I just could not resist since this thread offers such a good information for me (here, far away, 22 hours of flying on the other side of US.

Such a good thread and information....

 

[tealcherokee]

1. YES, I use a stroker (258) crank without overboring the cylinders to reach 4.5L.
2. Injectors, will be replaced
3. Camshaft, I got your point
4. If your engine only has the 258 crank & rods but is otherwise internally stock, YUP, that is it :explosion .... you guys should know how difficult it is to get such parts from the US.... However, I am working on it based on your guys advise !
5. What should I do in regards of additional modif (intake, TB, header, exhaust etc.)

Thanks

-Andhi (Jakarta, INDONESIA)

the pistons are pretty stout, for cast ones, forged would be a good idea, but mine are not, and im not worried about it for the low boost apps

head is absolute junk, ported your prolly good for 5 MAYBE 6 lbs....start saving for the hesco, and port that

 

[A Satria]

the pistons are pretty stout, for cast ones, forged would be a good idea, but mine are not, and im not worried about it for the low boost apps

head is absolute junk, ported your prolly good for 5 MAYBE 6 lbs....start saving for the hesco, and port that

OK, here is the deal....

1. At the moment, I am working on making the suspension COIL-OVER Shocks Apps, using Walker Evans Dual Rate Coil Over (Front and Rear). Have you guys seen the thread ??? This will be one ot the FEW XJ with this kind of suspension set-up !!
2. I've allocated some budget for the ENGINE...., and this is what I want to do ;
3. Since you and DRDYNO have been giving me advise, why don't I let you guys select performance parts what you guys want for the engine.
4. In return, I will put Sticker on the Front Windshield, and you name both on the Door. You guys can use the car when-ever you guys visit me here in Jakarta, INDONESIAatriot: . This I will sent you picture of it. So it will be your FAR-AWAY dream car XJ across the world !!!
5. Now, you both know the existing engine set-up.
6. I am confirm to put my PAXTON SN-2000 into the engine. So tell me the best camshaft AND its kit (pushfor centrifugal supercharged engine.
7. I will not change PISTON !!!, however, I am open for intake, throttle body, header.
8. I am open for electrical related matters such as IAC, MAP SENSOR, O2 Sensor, TPS, etc.
9. I am open to upgrade the existing AW-4, if there are any budget performance parts,. Tell me how to make it a better performance parts.
10. On Axle, it is quite good enough, and I am not worry about it, as these will rarely be used for a heavy of-road.
11. On suspension, It will be all COIL Over

-Andhi (Jakarta, INDONESIA)-
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84750

 

[streetpirate]

Put some decent pistons in it, sealed power makes good stuff, and are avlible from www.summitracing.com not sure of the best part number though. they run $30-35 USD each plus shipping

 

[Dr. Dyno]

What is your source for that information? Or are you just assuming since the 700r4 was put behind SBCs and the AW4 only behind 6s...?

And performance upgrades ARE available, the Toyota version of the tranny is often modded for the Supra guys running 500+ hp. Contact Level 10 (www.levelten.com) for that.

Take a look at these articles:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/aw4.htm
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/xj_swap.htm

...and the TH700R4 can also be upgraded to handle 500+hp at much lower cost.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

1. YES, I use a stroker (258) crank without overboring the cylinders to reach 4.5L.
2. Injectors, will be replaced
3. Camshaft, I got your point
4. If your engine only has the 258 crank & rods but is otherwise internally stock, YUP, that is it :explosion .... you guys should know how difficult it is to get such parts from the US.... However, I am working on it based on your guys advise !
5. What should I do in regards of additional modif (intake, TB, header, exhaust etc.)

Thanks

-Andhi (Jakarta, INDONESIA)

I just realised you have a '97 model and your injectors are rated at 23.3lb/hr, so you may not need to replace them until you add more performance mods (free-flow intake, 62mm bored TB, 62mm bored TB spacer, header, high-flow cat, 2.5" performance cat-back exhaust).
If you're going to supercharge the engine, I suggest you replace the stock cast pistons with Speed Pro hypereutectic H825CP units. These have a deeper dish than the stock pistons and will reduce the CR from 9.7:1 to 9.3. Being hypereutectic rather than cast, they're also stronger. You can keep your stock '97 cam.
Your 4WD dyno numbers of 140hp/195lbft at the wheels equate to ~197hp/275lbft at the flywheel. My Desktop dyno numbers for your engine specs are a little more optimistic at 201hp/281lbft.

 

[streetpirate]

Hmmmm...
if i blow up 2 aw4's, im going to the most inexpensive option. an ax15. bangin gears is more fun anyways.

 

[A Satria]

I just realised you have a '97 model and your injectors are rated at 23.3lb/hr, so you may not need to replace them until you add more performance mods (free-flow intake, 62mm bored TB, 62mm bored TB spacer, header, high-flow cat, 2.5" performance cat-back exhaust).
If you're going to supercharge the engine, I suggest you replace the stock cast pistons with Speed Pro hypereutectic H825CP units. These have a deeper dish than the stock pistons and will reduce the CR from 9.7:1 to 9.3. Being hypereutectic rather than cast, they're also stronger. You can keep your stock '97 cam.
Your 4WD dyno numbers of 140hp/195lbft at the wheels equate to ~197hp/275lbft at the flywheel. My Desktop dyno numbers for your engine specs are a little more optimistic at 201hp/281lbft.

DR. DYNO

I just :loveu: FORUM... and this thread

1. Where can I find Free Flow Intake for such engine ?
2. TB already Overbored to 6o, where can I find a good 62 TB and its Spacer ?
3. OK then, That means I am short on the figure compare to your Desktop Dyno.

My Modified Wrangler ;
-350 Stroker Kit to 383, Paxton supercharge 8-10psi, HALTECH Engine Management, FORCE ONE Throttle Body, Crower Piston, Crower Camshaft, All KINGSHOCKS Dual Rate Coil Over Kit, Using chasis at Cabin Only, the rest are custom tubular pipe, Chasis Lengthen to more than XJ Lenght, Dana 44 front, Dana 60 Rear.
- My mechanics on-Board
- Front, 4-Link Set-Up, Travel total of 18 Inch
- Rear , 4-Link Set-Up, Travel, total of 24 Inch (16" shocks mounted in ratio)
- Usage, a combination of jeep speed and corr in Jakarta, INDONESIA

 

[A Satria]

Hmmmm...
if i blow up 2 aw4's, im going to the most inexpensive option. an ax15. bangin gears is more fun anyways.

Just for your info, we use AX-15 for our race in Jakarta, INDONESIA. We custom made gears in Australia. Ist a close-ratio and short gear for ax-15. Its very fun to race with it....

KSNUSA.COM (Jakarta, INDONESIA)
-Custom Tubular, Custom Cherokee Fiberglass Body, Grand Cherokee V-8 HO engine, AX-15, KINGSHOCKS, HALTECH Engine Management, Individual Coils, 16 inch travel

 

[tealcherokee]

as dyno said, stick w/ the stock cam, id only run a 60mm tb, and no spacer, i dont think the spacers do anything, and the intake tube coming over the valve cover is already going to be close to the hood. i am running stock pistons because i cant afford forged ones, im also going to be boosting on top of my 9.8:1 compression. I have a knock sensor, you dont, if you plan to run 93 octane, your going to want to add your 5psi to about 8.5:1 compression. In my jeep the knock sensor will fix the knock, and make it fun w/ 110 or 114 octane when i wanna play

 

[A Satria]

as dyno said, stick w/ the stock cam, id only run a 60mm tb, and no spacer, i dont think the spacers do anything, and the intake tube coming over the valve cover is already going to be close to the hood. i am running stock pistons because i cant afford forged ones, im also going to be boosting on top of my 9.8:1 compression. I have a knock sensor, you dont, if you plan to run 93 octane, your going to want to add your 5psi to about 8.5:1 compression. In my jeep the knock sensor will fix the knock, and make it fun w/ 110 or 114 octane when i wanna play

OK,

1. Stock Cam Agreed
2. TB already 60mm and No-Spacer
3. I am going to install the Paxton S/C SN-2000 this week.
   1. Its an old PAXTON SN series which I used to install in my Chevy 350 engine. I have several S/C Blade to create different boost at different RPM
   2. Moved the existing Red Optima Battery to Cargo Space area
   3. Crate Braket
   4. Running on the same Serpentine Belt for Water Pump, Alternator, etc
   5. CNC S/C pulley to accept serpentine belt and diameter to create boost at 2500 RPM
   6. No Intercooler
   7. Create Boost Plumbing
   8. Change Injectors
   9. Re-Mapping the Piggy Back Computer
   10. DYNO Test

 

[BrettM]

Take a look at these articles:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/aw4.htm
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/xj_swap.htm

...and the TH700R4 can also be upgraded to handle 500+hp at much lower cost.

Those "articles" are total BS. Novak says that because they want to steer people into their expensive adapters to run other trannies.

I won't argue that a built 700r4 is cheaper, but in stock form, my money is on the AW4 every time.

 

[CW]

Ive seen turbo supras with the toy version of the aw4 put down more power than we xj guys will ever make. They don't start getting into the gm swaps untill they are around 400hp. JJacobs wore one out with a built 401ci again making more power than anyone can make with the 4.0L. You have to be realistic the 4.0L is a great motor and a 4.xL stroker makes an xj a blast to drive but we don't have the potential of a 5.xL+ v8 or a cast iron block that can handle massive boost. We have an enefficient head design that porting can't cure, no possibility of SOHC or DOHC and the xj wasn't built for speed. If you are running a blown stroker, swap in a 8.25, 8.8 or a d44 to replace the d35 before you even consider needing a trans swap. If you actually toast an aw4 with a amc six then you have stumbled on a magic set of mods that over comes the short comings of our 40+ year old engine design, or you haven't taken proper care of your heep.

 

[xuv-this]

Hmmmm...
if i blow up 2 aw4's, im going to the most inexpensive option. an ax15. bangin gears is more fun anyways.

the aw4 is much stronger than the ax stick. i would run a really big aftermarket trans cooler, and use the factory cooler in the radiator to warm up/cool the z28 power steering.
THE VERY FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DECIDE IS HOW MUCH YOU WANT TO SPEND!!! you have a ton of options, but cheaper is usually not better.

i would call some junkyards and try to find a police version xj. rob the swaybars, and check for the HD242- if that little metal tag says "242j" than it's just a regular 242. the aw4 has the advantage of 1) having 4 wires that tell it which gear to be in, and you sir have the older "GM style" steering column. look up "shrifter". 2) being that it's a yota trans, almost all other yota autos have the same # of splines on the torque converter. you could talk to some yota/supra guys and try to find some of the different stall speeds that they are running and what they're out of. so make sure you do your homework, then build it to match your cam, stall speed, shift points, and rear end ratio.
as far as the rear end, i would ditch it if it's not a D44. you can also build your own exploder 8.8. factory discs(and preferably run a proportioning valve out of a wj), choice of 3 or 4 gear ratios down to 4.10, and factory limited slip. but if it's a c-clip axle(D35, 8.25, ford 8.8) don't lock it with the power you're gunnin' for. also, you might upgrade your front brakes with wj stuff.
as far as the motor, honestly i would forget the stroker part, and spend the dough on the hesco head, late model pistons and rods, really good port job to a 2000 intake manifold and header, balance and boost the hell out of it with a good cam. 400 AWD ponies and 4.10 gears.party1:
that's enough torque to the ground to murder any fwd car out of the hole.:shiver:

 

[Cjmartz2k]

Why would you "forget the stroker part", especially since you are talking about a motor rebuild anyways? You think it will rev better or higher with the shorter stroker? If so, not true. Because of 3rd level harmonics, you shouldn't rev a amc I6 past 5600rpm (I believe that's the right rpm). I'm sure Dino will chime in with the exact number if I'm wrong.

 

[CW]

as far as the motor, honestly i would forget the stroker part, and spend the dough on the hesco head, late model pistons and rods, really good port job to a 2000 intake manifold and header, balance and boost the hell out of it with a good cam. 400 AWD ponies and 4.10 gears.party1:
that's enough torque to the ground to murder any fwd car out of the hole.:shiver:

How do you figure 400hp at the wheels or even the crank. On dyno2000 it takes at least 15psi of boost to make 400hp on a 4.0L. The block can't take that, factory pistons and rods definately can't. You can't run lots of boost with a radical cam, and the parts to make such an engine would put the cost through the roof. It would cost so much that it would be just as feasible to drop in an srt10. A blown stroker wont get you to 400hp (crank) with any reliability. There is a lot of imaginary engine building without any thinking going on in this thread. Don't get me wrong I own a built stroker in my wheeler and my dd is built for the street and has a built 4.0L but you have to be realistic when you talk about stuff. I'm all for throwing engine ideas out there and being creative but at least think about things long enough to realize it is impossible to make near that much power with the 4.0L.

 

[A Satria]

I won't argue that a built 700r4 is cheaper, but in stock form, my money is on the AW4 every time.

BrettM,
I called Levelten Performance Parts, and they confirm that I can use their PTS Kit JA110-5000 for $579.00

They have many different Kit for AW-4.
Thanks for the info.

 

[Cjmartz2k]

I see your point, but dissagree. I think a forged stroker could take a pretty nasty hit of silly gas (150 or maybe 175 shot) or 12-15 psi of boost and make around 400-425 crank hp. I'd bet that is about the limit though. I'd bet the limit is thecrank, not the block though. You are right about fantasy 500hp-600hp jeep I6 motor's though.

 

[CW]

Who makes a forged crank? You can get forged rods and custom pistons but I don't know of anyone that makes a forged crank. I have my doubts that the 4.0L head is even capable of flowing that much air.

 

[brent]

-BUT NO PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFT installed yet !!!
- What do you suggest for the camshaft ? :thumbup:

• 
  I've got a hesco RVOB I'll sell cheap, 5000 miles on it before I traded it for a diffrent cam.